2006wr450f

What did you do to your WR today?

4,502 posts in this topic

I wanna move to the States!

Sooo much after market gear

True but down-under you can buy a plated WR450 :thumbsup:

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Ok so I just bought a new 2009 WR450F unfortunately I'm a fuel injection tuner been a while since I worked on a tin can (carb). I started to ask a few questions after I did the free mods; air box, new FMF pipe, AIS GYTR, R&D Powerbowl 2, R&D Acc pump, Grey Wire, K&N filter. On how to jett this thing, I live in Colorado and ride between 6500 - 11000'. So after searching and reading all of the posts especially the one directed at the newbies to check the posts, threads and sticky's. I've cut and pasted all of the prevalent information and have come up with some results which confuse you even more! My findings, Oh and by the way my last job was EFI tuning for Esteban Guerrieri in the IRL Indy lights so I'm not trying to be a SA just looking for help. Back to what I've found in the WR450 Intake - Jetting / Fuel Injection and Jetting table;

ALT - 8,000'

Main jet: ranges from 150 to 168

Pilot jet: ranges from 40 to 50

Pilot AJ: ranges from 65 to 85

Leak Jet: ranges from 45 to 55

Starter Jet: ranges from 58 to 67

Fuel Screw: 1 1/4 to 2 (only consistent setting)

Needle clip depending on type but all using the GYTR anywhere from 2 to 4

Ok these are the variances for the same bike same 6,000 to 10,000 at 70 - 90 degrees. I know ever bike is different but not as much as these variances and they all run great! Can anyone help me with a good starting point that has recorded the AFRs and VEs in these altitudes?

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223317_10150176633702617_526562616_7072254_745990_n.jpg

That's how epic my high side was. Bark buster: Demolish. Lever: Bent. Grip: sawn through. Fat bars: Somehow unbent!

My body bore the brunt of the rest of the crash.

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This is a rookie question, I bought a 2004 WR450 and I am slowly learning the ropes.

Question to the pros out there, how do I tell if my clutch is on its way out. currently when the bike is swichted off and I put it in first gear and hold the clutch in, it will not roll. I do not notice this problem when bike is on and in gear. Is this a bad sign?

Thanks for any help. i did search around a bit but turned up nothing.

On topic, I gave it a bath and lubed chain.

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It's typical for WR's with new clutches to stick; a change to some Honda parts (that are thinner than the Yamaha parts) fixes that if you can't stand the binding (which should go away over time). Also if the basket is worn, the plates will stick on the worn-in grooves on the clutch basket fingers; the solution there is to smooth the grooves or replace the basket if the wear is excessive.

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Every time I visit the US my interest is to purchase a bike...i have to spend sometime to browse through this entire thread , its funny as a biker you pick up odds and ends and so much tips on how to get things done. from these article..very interesting eh!

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Every time I visit the US my interest is to purchase a bike...i have to spend sometime to browse through this entire thread , its funny as a biker you pick up odds and ends and so much tips on how to get things done. from these article..very interesting eh!

Well if your in California down towards LA check out Berts Mega mall... They have every make and model bike along with a parts store that's bigger than most normal bike dealers. They've got boats too :thumbsup:

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Bark busters swapped out, new rear tire, re-tightened steering stem bearings (came loose since install a while ago) and sorted out the bike in general. It's ready to rip!

Next up:

Next weekend I'll be installing my James Dean Jetting Kit, throwing on some street tires for my bike... and DYNO TUNING it! WOOHOO! This will ensure that I really know what's going on with my bike! I also might be dyno tuning my street bike. More on that to come though...

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Bark busters swapped out, new rear tire, re-tightened steering stem bearings (came loose since install a while ago) and sorted out the bike in general. It's ready to rip!

Next up:

Next weekend I'll be installing my James Dean Jetting Kit, throwing on some street tires for my bike... and DYNO TUNING it! WOOHOO! This will ensure that I really know what's going on with my bike! I also might be dyno tuning my street bike. More on that to come though...

too bad you arent local. ive got a dyno pretty much all to myself this sunday :thumbsup:

when you gonna ship me that power bomb header of yours?

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too bad you arent local. ive got a dyno pretty much all to myself this sunday :confused:

when you gonna ship me that power bomb header of yours?

When you buy it for $300 :thumbsup:

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rode it! had a great maiden voyage! :confused:

did have a stupid slow get off. one of those loss of momentum/balance kind of things. bent my brand new brake lever and gouged the front fender pretty good. :thumbsup:

but other than that:thumbsup:

i was pretty darn impressed with it for being a stock bike that has not been uncorked. felt great to ride today. need to play with the rear shock settings a bit. little too much rebound i thought. actually, i don't know if i will mess with the performance too much. how much does doing the pea shooter and air box and rejetting really affect the bike? it felt great. smooth, and managable power. what can i say though, i am used to riding 2 smokes. this thing was night and day difference in how usable the power was. should i still do these "free" mods?

anyone know an easy way to bend levers back into shape?

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Yep. The WRs need to be uncorked and jetted before they'll really perform. Do the free mods and jet your bike.

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Re-tapped a 6mm bolt (with 8mm head) on a used 09. The previous owner must've been able to get the bolt in one...last....time, and got it to hold. Should've known by looking at the rubber piece which the bolt/washer went into: squished and annihilated! So when I went to put the bolt it the threads would not take. Knew it wasn't that bolt because the same sized bolt from elsewhere would not go.

A simple 6x1.25 fixed it, but it's a total inconvenience when it happens. Everyone is riding and you're stomping around looking for that tap & die set.

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Every day I am trying to finish off small details on my supermoto. Every day brings new challenges! Yesterday, I wired and attached the 2009 style integrated tail light,, then cobbled up a ghetto license plate holder. Today I get to hook up the turn signal portion of that light and redo the license holder.

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Every day I am trying to finish off small details on my supermoto. Every day brings new challenges! Yesterday, I wired and attached the 2009 style integrated tail light,, then cobbled up a ghetto license plate holder. Today I get to hook up the turn signal portion of that light and redo the license holder.

I really like mine. It already has the holes in it for the small LED blinkers. PM me your email address if you want to see pictures and if you want to know where I got it. I cant attach pictures, the option isnt there for me.

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took the carb off the 99 to diagnose what i need for it... i can't seem to really find what i need to buy though see what you guys think (red pieces are lawn mower parts)

1b39471d.jpg

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AP cam and lever. You can get that off a junked '99 carb if you have a motorcycle junkyard nearby or someone's selling a parts bike cheap. Maybe one of the rebuilders can sell you a used piece. Here's a 'fiche from the TT store: http://shop.thumpertalk.com/oem.asp?partcategory=34545&manufacturer=6&category=3&year=1999&model=897

Pretty sure that you can't order that particular part (un-numbered in the 'fiche).

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AP cam and lever. You can get that off a junked '99 carb if you have a motorcycle junkyard nearby or someone's selling a parts bike cheap. Maybe one of the rebuilders can sell you a used piece. Here's a 'fiche from the TT store: http://shop.thumpertalk.com/oem.asp?partcategory=34545&manufacturer=6&category=3&year=1999&model=897

Pretty sure that you can't order that particular part (un-numbered in the 'fiche).

i don't see it at all on there... i see the lever but it doesn't show it going into anything

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Sometimes those drawings are crap. The cam is hidden on the back of the carb. Since it's not something that you can buy, it's not shown. It fits right where that red thing is on that shaft with the spring. You can just barely see where the bottom half of the throttle linkage goes behind the carb where the AP timing screw is (broken off on your carb); and, of course, not shown on the diagram. :thumbsup:

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