broke shift pedal?

This was my second time out with my brand

new WR400. My shift pedal broke, it is stuck in first. I was wondering what to do ? How can I fix it?

Richard do yourself a favor and replace the stock aluminum one with a steel one. Both IMS and Moose Offroad make them for our bikes. If you do break it out on the trail you can just bend it back :) instead of it just snapping off. They cost about $26.00 and you only have to buy it once. Chaparral part number for the IMS lever is Part No. 313114. The Moose offroad lever from Dennis Kirk is Part No. 57-1103. If it is stuck in gear and you need to rotate the shaft you'll have to use the "universal tool" Vise Grips. Just try and clamp on what is left of the old lever so you don't damage the splines on the lever shaft.

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00'WR400 75'Yamaha 250 enduro

White e-Series S-bend 12 discs, Yz timed, rejetted to Clark specs, throttle stop cut, lid removed, Topar Racing top clamp, Tag Metals T2 bars, Scotts damper, Devol disc guard and frame guards, lights removed, Cr routed Fastline brakeline, Acerbis Rally pro hand guards fastened to the top clamp, Gel grips Live in Southwest Ohio

I'd be careful replacing the stock lever with a steel one. The aluminum ones are meant to bend or break so you don't damage the shaft. The steel levers are prone to actually break off your gear shaft before giving way to breaking or bending themselves. I would stick with an aluminum lever going with steel only in an emergency to get you back to the truck. Just my opinion though.

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Dougie, '99 WR400

Mods: YZ timing, Race Tech Suspension, FMF PC IV, FMF Hi FLo Moto, YZ seat, IMS 3.3 tank, One Industries Graphics, Renthal bars, 14/52 gearing.

[This message has been edited by Dougie (edited 05-07-2000).]

I tend to agree with Dougie. I let ine get too loose and today it rotated downward only doing damage to the lever and not the shaft. Does anyone know what a stock aluminum lever costs? Or does anyone make a aluminum lever? BBR mabye?

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Darin from Missouri WR400F Pro-Tapers, Applied TC, Clarke 3.3, YZ seat, Scotts Shark Fin, FMF PC IV S.A., One Industries Hannah Retro Kit, WER Steering Dampner,Pacemaker Computer, Andrews Powder Coating-painted gloss black

Unfortunately, the stock aluminum lever is pretty expensive. The steel ones run around $25 dollars but again, I wouldn't put one on. I would get one for a spare just in case but then spend the money to replace the aluminum one. I'm not sure if you can find a cheap aluminum aftermarket lever. But then again, if you break your shaft, you'll wish you had.

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Dougie, '99 WR400

Mods: YZ timing, Race Tech Suspension, FMF PC IV, FMF Hi FLo Moto, YZ seat, IMS 3.3 tank, One Industries Graphics, Renthal bars, 14/52 gearing.

I had a big crash at Glamis and must have came down on the shifter. The stock aluminum shifter is so strong that it bent the shaft and twisted all the splines in the shifter and shaft. It didn't bend the shifter at all, that thing is one big, tough chunk of aluminum. A new shaft was only $35 and was easy to change. I got an aftermarket shifter that is steel and this thing will EASILY bend with less force compared to the big, rigid stocker.

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'99 WR400

'92 GSXR 7/11

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Just a little reminder to you all to check the tightness of your shift lever occasionally. I didnt, and it cost me $48 for a new stock aluminum one. So do yourself a favor and spend the money on someting else...like beer!

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Darin from Missouri WR400F Pro-Tapers, Applied TC, Clarke 3.3, YZ seat, Scotts Shark Fin, FMF PC IV S.A., One Industries Hannah Retro Kit, WER Steering Dampner,Pacemaker Computer, Andrews Powder Coating-painted gloss black

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