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supervokes

Fuel Screw Backing Out .. can I use Teflon Tape or Loctite on Threads?

18 posts in this topic

I have an aftermarket fuel screw on my 450X carb, and during the past 2 rides, it has backed out completely and rests on the starter case (loosely).

The spring is still on the fuel screw, so its not like I lost it.

The last ride, I had to duct tape the screw to keep it from backing out, which worked, but I am trying to determine why its backing out.

Questions:

1) Is this typical of fuel screws?? In other words, should I just buy a new one, thread it in and forget about it? (this is assuming the problem is with the existing fuel screw).

2) Can you use Loctite on the threads?

3) What about applying a small amount of Teflon tape to the threads?? This would make it a little more difficult to turn, but on the other hand may keep it from vibrating out??

Any input would be valuable. I think I am going to buy a new fuel screw anyway, just to be on the safe side, but if somebody can answer questions 2 and 3, or provide advice on how to ensure the new one does not back out, that would be very much appreciated.:thumbsup:

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Chances are the o-ring is missing from the screw...which will allow it to vibrate and back out. You might double-check that the spring is still in place, also ??

Do not use loctite or teflon, these can both clog the carb..

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Compared to what Iv seen on other dirt bikes the stock screw is not so bad and it stays put. I think some of these mods have more popularity then practical use. You could make a bad thing worse by sticking things like glue and tape in your carburetor.

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I have an aftermarket fuel screw on my 450X carb, and during the past 2 rides, it has backed out completely and rests on the starter case (loosely).

The spring is still on the fuel screw, so its not like I lost it.

The last ride, I had to duct tape the screw to keep it from backing out, which worked, but I am trying to determine why its backing out.

Questions:

1) Is this typical of fuel screws?? In other words, should I just buy a new one, thread it in and forget about it? (this is assuming the problem is with the existing fuel screw).

2) Can you use Loctite on the threads?

3) What about applying a small amount of Teflon tape to the threads?? This would make it a little more difficult to turn, but on the other hand may keep it from vibrating out??

Any input would be valuable. I think I am going to buy a new fuel screw anyway, just to be on the safe side, but if somebody can answer questions 2 and 3, or provide advice on how to ensure the new one does not back out, that would be very much appreciated.:thumbsup:

Same thing happened to me. Sounds like you lost the o-ring, contact jd or go down to your local kawasaki dealer, they have a o-ring that will work(this is what I did).

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Mmmm o-ring .... what o-ring? Yeah I think I lost it.

I think you guys are correct in this troubleshooting .. thanks!

When I pulled the fuel screw, I noticed there was no o-ring on it. I originally had somebody else install it, hence why I did not really notice that an o-ring was missing. Is it possible that it is still up inside the carb?? It was definitely not on the screw (but the spring was).

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Now that I am fairly confident that this problem has been solved, are there any "remedial" measures that I should be taking, given that my fuel screw was backed out of my carb??

I estimate that only about 20KM of riding was put on in these conditions.

After the first discovery, I changed the plug, but was wondering if the backed out fuel screw can have any negative impacts on my carb. In other words, is a complete carb clean needed, or just drop a new fuel screw in and its good to go??

Thoughts??? Will a backed out fuel screw negatively affect the carb in any way?

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Compared to what Iv seen on other dirt bikes the stock screw is not so bad and it stays put. I think some of these mods have more popularity then practical use. You could make a bad thing worse by sticking things like glue and tape in your carburetor.

Agreed, i bought an aftermarket Fuel Screw and have not had to touch it once since i got it set, put it at about 1 7/8 and its done.

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The stock air screws are just about impossible to get to to adjust, this mod is for those rare occasions that adjustment is needed....and Yes, it's worthwhile for $ 20.00

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The stock air screws are just about impossible to get to to adjust, this mod is for those rare occasions that adjustment is needed....and Yes, it's worthwhile for $ 20.00

Its really not that hard, just loosen the 2 clamps on each side of the carb and rotate. Then it is easily accessible for a flat head screwdriver.

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beyond the default o-ring and it's usefulness...

I take a squirt of clear silicone and push it into the crevice around the fuel screw (even though I now have a Kouba adjuster for a replacement).... and then allow it to harden up a bit (cure). I'll then take and break the seal from the silicon as to adjust the screw before it's fully cured. It's kind of like a poor mans lockwasher. With just enough friction to keep it in place.

:thumbsup:

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Its really not that hard, just loosen the 2 clamps on each side of the carb and rotate. Then it is easily accessible for a flat head screwdriver.

You can do all that with the engine at idle ? Wow, that's impressive... :thumbsup:

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You can do all that with the engine at idle ? Wow, that's impressive... :thumbsup:

Yeah im pretty talented

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Yeah im pretty talented

I seen him do it !! He' even had some of that rotgut Bud in him !!:thumbsup:

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I seen him do it !! He' even had some of that rotgut Bud in him !!:thumbsup:

Hahahaha! Bud gives me a headache.......

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stretch your spring a bit, with a slightly larger o ring and see what happens.

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stretch your spring a bit, with a slightly larger o ring and see what happens.

I had the same problem on my X until I stretched the spring. Whatever you do, don't go to the dealer for the replacement o-ring. It is only available in a gasket set that runs like $20.

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