Jump to content

2000 WR TECH QUESTION


Recommended Posts

Help! You gurus, does the carb on the 2000 have the same throttle limiter as the '99? Took off the plastic cover that was supposed to have two screws and had one. Guess what no pin, or at least one that i can find. There looks to be a screw at the bottom of the opening that might serve as a restrictor. Don't want to start tearing it apart until i know what to do. THANKS!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when i did mine there was a pin limiting the throttle to only half. i ground it down to let it open fully. to check - twist the throttle and look in the carb. does the slide go all the way up or does it stay at half throttle? i think i ground it 10mm and then checked it. it was a 2000 wr and it makes a world of difference to do this. also changing to the yz timing did even more. i cant believe that one tooth on the cam could have so much effect, and i cant believe that i thought my bike was so slow when i got it. i wonder if there are any wr owners who haven't done these mods-better yet ones that sold their bikes because they were slow and bought drz's! HAHAHA

Link to comment
Share on other sites

bonz, Was the pin press fit into the carb frame or was it a screw in pin? Ive rotated the butterflies in there and cant see anything outright to rework.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the pin in mine screwed in but i can't remember where. it had a smooth shaft-hehe- and a hex like a bolt on the bottom. it presses against the butterfly when it is wide open to stop it. if you turn the butterfly and it stops but you can't see anything under that cover stopping it then my guess would be that it is gone. hope i could help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks bonez, The screw is located at the bottom of the carb frame, just looked again. Its easy to access, i was looking for some hidden pressed in pin after reading all the tech on the bike. I also read somewhere that you should only grind off a certain amount of material from the pin to eliminate full throttle lag. What did you check for when you ground it. Full throttle opening, or is there a dimension to shoot for?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry eric, i ground 10mm off of the total length of the pin. you may not have the same type of pin that i have but i kinda eyeballed it and made sure 10mm was close. mine is a 2000 model bought in VA so go figure. i know there are a lot of articles on this and i think there is one at offroad.com that has pictures and everything-good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Eric, this is very easy to do. You have to disconnect the throttle cables to get the carb out, I also noticed, to watch the cable tension when you reinstall them, DO NOT get too tight or the throttle will stick. You probably know this too...BUT...take everything apart and GREASE it. Axles,swing arm and linkage, all of the bolts on almost everything. This helps to prevent corrosion. Tighten spokes,sprocket,disks,calipers,handle bars!!! I just replaced my bar the bolts were scary loose! I can go on and on. CHECK EVERYTHING the Japanese don't believe in grease. Rip the head set appart too, grease those bearings.

I think last months MOTOCROSS ACTION had a big list of things to do, they did it on a brand new CR. Invest in a very good torque wrench THE most important tool you will own.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Bryan Bosch:

Mine 99 throttle stop was completely removed when I bought the bike however; I haven't noticed and hesitation or cutting-out as Baja Designs claim in the tech section of this site. Has anyone else experienced the same thing?

Bryan, I have a '00 yes, mine did hesitate at absolute full throttle I had to get a new bolt and regrind it. I eyeballed so it is just a smidge (1-2mm) under absolute full throttle. I guess if it goes above 9000 rpm it confuses the computer. I haven't converted to YZ timing (next week) maybe that has some thing to do with it too?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One more for the guys who might be wondering,

I moved the coil directly in front of the carb by removing the two screws and pulling the unit aside. After this I used a 4mm Bondhus allen style balldriver to break the screw free and remove it. The entire procedure took less than five minutes with this tool (even with my big hands). I think i bought the whole set for around $12.00 US. Hope this saves somebody else any hassle with removing and re-installing the screw.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

×
×
  • Create New...