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Hill starting troubles


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Ok, I don't know if this is normal for WR's but I searched the forums a but and I didn't come up with anything so here it goes. When I go riding I camp up on the top of this hill and I usually roll down it to the main road. To save gas I usually put the bike in 2nd gear and start rolling down the hill then start it at the bottom. I noticed that when the bike isn't in neutral the bike is in gear, even when the clutch is engaged. I've adjusted the clutch and everything. But when the bike has been started the problem no-longer exists. Is that just a characteristic of the WR's? Thanks in advance.

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Ok, let me try without the story. If the bike hasn't been started the clutch wont engage, therefore I am in gear with the clutch pulled in. But after the bike has started this problem no longer exists. Sorry If i confused you.

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I think I understand what you are saying, the clutch doesn't seem to disengage the transmission. I haven't noticed this on my WR, but have seen it on other bikes. The clutch plates kind of stick together until it has been run for a bit. If it's working normally, I wouldn't worry about it.

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Maybe take out the clutch plates and seperate them , the could be stuck together.Also while the plates are out check the basket doesn't have worn parts where the plate edges go.Maybe some one could post a picture link so you get what i mean.But first try new oil and filter.And i do understand what you mean.

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I have experienced the same in mine (2004) I have used for 2.5 years and use it a lot probably over 12000 km, not exchanged the clutch plates yet.

I have not worried too much though as everything works OK when I am riding.

What year and usage is yours ?

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What kind of motor oil and weight are you running? I found that the clutch on my 2 stroke would get sticky if I did not run a lighter oil every 3 or 4 oil changes. Here in Nevada I run a 20W 50 full synthetic (Amsoil) in the summer but switch to a 10W 40, again full synthetic, in the winter. Its been my experience that the lighter oil helps to clean out the heavier oil.

Hope this helps

wingnut16

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Its a 2005 and It probably only has 1000 or less miles on it. I am running 20w40 during the summer and 10w 30 all other times. I just changed the oil today but I forgot to check if it still had the same problem. Maybe next change I will try 10w 30 and see if it still happens. Thanks alot guys.

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To intentionally ride any distance with the bike in gear and the engine off is not a good practice. In fact, if you are going speeds faster than you would normally do in 2nd, you are spinning parts faster than they are ment to be spun. The same thing happens if you pull in the clutch at high speed and then downshift quickly to a lower gear. The amount of gas you would save is minimal and the wear of parts not properly lubed because the engine is not running could cost you a lot more in repairs. If you really need to coast, put it in neutral.

Paul

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Yea, uest to put it in neutral but when I upshifted the bike made a very noticeable "crack" "pop" "click" So thats the reason why I no longer do that. I found that if I held in the clutch, there were no weird noises. Maybe I will just use a little more gas and save my transmission. Thanks guys. I'm also assuming the clutch is suppose be engaged when the engine isn't running because there is no oil being circulated and because its a wet clutch oil needs to be circulated through it.

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This is normal, so do not try to fix anything!

I am worried about the fact that you are taking a cold bike and bumpstarting it, then riding. Kick your bike over, let it warm up for a few minutes in neutral to get the oil circulating.

You are not going to ruin the $100 clutch plates with your current practice, you are going to cost yourself a $1200 engine ?

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