checking valve clearence on 06(this cant be right)

Just awhile ago I decided to go ahead and check the valve clearence on my 06 since it has 31 hours on it now. I have'nt checked the valve clearence on it since I bought it so I decided to check them. When I used the .020 feeler gauge on the exhaust valve there was no way it was going in I had to go down all the way to a .005 feeler .006 was to dragy and .004 was to loose the .005 was just right also I want to add is that the feeler gauge I used says .005 then right under that # it says .127mm...........Am I useing the right feeler gauges?:thumbsup: >>>>>The Intake valves measured .003 and the specs in the service manual says 0.10-0.15......Mine measured .7mm under the spec.......is this right?:thumbsup: My exhaust valves measured .15mm under the spec, This cant be right can it? I need some help on this cause since I still have the head off I wont to make sure the valve clearence is right before I put it back together.

I think you're getting your mm and inches mixed up, but it's hard to tell by your post. .005 - .006 is inches.

-Toby

The gauges I bought just to check the clearence on the valves have two numbers on each blade that says........003 and right under that number there is another number that says .076 and under that the initals mm (which I suppose it means millimeters)........Now isint this a millimeter feeler gauge? Because on one of the blades it says .010 and the book says 0.10 so this is not the right bade is it?

Let me make it simple>>>>> The feeler bldes I have read as follows> .003,.004,.005,.006,.007,.008,.009,and then they go .010,.011,.012 and so on. Now arent these feeler gaugaes mm blades since they have another # under the #'s I just mentioned. Example .003 under that it says .076 and under that the intials mm( Iam assumeing means millimeters)

If my clearence measured (with the feeler gauges that I have) .003 on the intake valves are they in spec? And if my exhaust valves measured .005 are they in spec also?

Are you sure your on TDC (top dead center) with both cam lobes facing away from each other?

Do the feeler gauges say "Made in China" on them? :thumbsup:

You might try a different set.

Using English gauges (which yours are, even though they are marked with the metric equivalent), you should be using .004-.006 INCH for the intakes, and .008-.010 INCH for your exhausts. That equates to 0.102-0.152mm, and 0.203-0.254mm respectively. Not an exact match, but the largest variance is .004mm, which is only .00015", so I think it'll be OK.

One reason I suspect either the gauges or the technique being used is that all the valves in both sets apparently measure the same, indicating they were built like that. However, if a cross check validates your readings, you need to reshim.

No! they dont say where they are made but the name brand on them are AMPRO that I bought at advance. Like I said gray with the blades I have the intake valve measured .003 and the exhaust valve measured .005........ Is my valve clearence ok!>>>>>>I done like the book said put the "I" mark inline with the mark on the crankcase cover and the checked if the punch marks were align with the cylinder head surface and they were. BTW the blade I first tried was .020 not 0.20

the name brand on them are AMPRO that I bought at advance. Like I said gray with the blades I have the intake valve measured .003 and the exhaust valve measured .005........ Is my valve clearence ok!>>>>>>
If your measurements are correct, no, your valve clearance is not OK.

But if, as I suspect, the feeler gauges you bought at advance are up to the same level of precision and quality as the rest of the tools they sell, it's entirely possible that they're inaccurate. Try another set, and compare the results. Alternatively, you could check the feelers with a micrometer.

I did and the mic would not measure the same as the blades. By what I measured with the feeler I have is My valve clearence extremely off or just a little?

By the way! when you put the piston at top dead center of the compression stroke how do you know your on the compression stroke? Is the compression stroke......... when the piston is on its way back up the cylinder?

when the cam lobes are pointing out

The feeler gauges have 2 numbers because one is inches and the other is the metric equivalent.

.005" = .127mm on the feeler you used, which is right in the middle of the recommended spec you indicated (.10mm - .15mm) so you're fine there. The specifications in the manual are metric because they are from Japan, so make sure you are always using the second number on the feelers you have. You can buy feeler gauges that only have metric on them if you want to eliminate any confusion but the ones you have should be good.

when the cam lobes are pointing out

Ok!.....I went back and tried again this time I made sure the "I" mark was in line with the mark on the crankcase cover and the punch marks on the cams were alighn with the surface of the cylinderhead. I also put a straw down the sparkplug hole to make sure the straw was at it highest point and it was. The cam lobes were pointing away from each other also but they were tilted up just a little.........not much!.....just a little.......but they were pointing away from each other. The exhaust measured .0025 and it felt smooth to the feeler at .076 it had a little drag and .004 it had a heavy drag. The intake valves measured .002 and was smooth.....just right with this feeler. So do you guys think I need to reshim or wait a few races more?

Your intakes should be at .004-.006Inch so yes they need shimmed.Your exhaust should be at .008-.010Inch.So yes they need shimmed also.Just take your time and do it right.I bet you won't have to reshimm for a long time.

sounds like someone else better be doing the work here.

Ok!.....I went back and tried again this time I made sure the "I" mark was in line with the mark on the crankcase cover and the punch marks on the cams were alighn with the surface of the cylinderhead. I also put a straw down the sparkplug hole to make sure the straw was at it highest point and it was. The cam lobes were pointing away from each other also but they were tilted up just a little.........not much!.....just a little.......but they were pointing away from each other. The exhaust measured .0025 and it felt smooth to the feeler at .076 it had a little drag and .004 it had a heavy drag. The intake valves measured .002 and was smooth.....just right with this feeler. So do you guys think I need to reshim or wait a few races more?

To me, it sounds like the ones that have the 'heavy drag' are the ones you should go with. If they fit and they don't bend the feeler gage in the process, then its a good measurement IMO. The ones that have little drag could be dragging on the oil slick to give it a smooth feel.

if you feel metal to metal contact (scraping, catching, etc.) then its too tight, but if its tight and you don't feel that then its good. Sometimes its hard to judge by the feel... since they are 'feeler' gages they can be interpreted differently. Just use your best judgement, and if your unsure go with the more conservative results (the .002") since you can't mess anything up by going with that measurement

Your intakes should be at .004-.006Inch so yes they need shimmed.Your exhaust should be at .008-.010Inch.So yes they need shimmed also.Just take your time and do it right.I bet you won't have to reshimm for a long time.
Uh..... no there not! the intake valves are to be at 0.0039-0.0059 and mine are at .051 which are with in the spec but now for the exhaust valves the book says 0.0079-0.0098 and mine are .063 which are under the spec value.

Since you didn't say what size blade you checked, and you didn't say what it measured, I have no way of knowing, do I?

Be sure you are applying the right amount of pressure with the micrometer by seeing what it takes to get it to read exactly 0 with nothing in it.

As to whether your valves need shimming, the answer is the same as for the question, "is your valve clearance outside of the specified range?" If yes, it doesn't matter by how much, it needs to be adjusted.

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