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Spring/oil change - how much oil to put back in?

9 posts in this topic

Hey guys! Putting stock '05 CRF450 springs in my new to me '05 CRF250. I have read the procedure but am a little unclear on a couple of things. The step by step articles I have read (the one by Smash/AgentSmith is great) always include a bushing and seal replacement, but I'm not doing that at this time. After removing the top cap what else needs to come out so I can remove the spring? Does the center bolt and rod have to come out at the bottom? It doesn't look like it, but I'm not sure.

Also, if I am doing a spring and oil change only, how much oil do I put back in? Should I use the stock 5w? I'm about 195 w/o gear. I'm not sure which chart to go by in the manual that says how much is left after draining.

I'm doing this tonight so I can ride tomorrow - help asap!!!

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This is how I change the fork oil on my KTM300, KX100, KX250f, and YZ85 forks. Yours is probably the same. The center rod does not have to come out at the bottom, only the cap and spring need be removed from the rod.

1. Remove the cap from the top of the fork. (It's easiest to loosen the cap before you remove the forks fom the triple clamps)

2. Lower the outer fork tube. You will now remove the cap from the top of the center rod. You will need a thin wrench to hold the rod.

3. Once the cap is off the rod, you can remove the spring.

4. Drain the fork oil completely by turning upside down and pumping the plunger rod several times. It takes a while for it all to come out. You can feel the resistance stop when the all fliud is drained. You may need to turn it upside down a few times.

5. Add fork oil with the spring out, and the rod(plunger) all the way down. You will need to pump the rod up and down many times. When you get a smooth motion all the way with resistance, the air is out.

6. Measure the fork oil level with the outer fork tube all the way up, the rod down, and the spring out. the level is measured from the top of the fork tube to the surface of the oil in the fork. See your manual for the proper level. Usually about 100-110 mm on a full size bike.

7. Install the new spring, and re-install the cap on the top of the plunger rod.

8. Raise the outer tube, screw the cap on, and re-mount in the triple clamps.

Once again, it's easier to tighten it once it is bolted into the triples.

9. Line it up so you can get to the air bleed screw before you tighten the clamps.

Thats about it. It's easy but messy.

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After removing the top cap what else needs to come out so I can remove the spring? Does the center bolt and rod have to come out at the bottom?

you have to unscrew the rebound adjuster bolt on the bottem of your fork.

For locking the lock nut you need a holder or you can use a 12mm open end wrench

Also, if I am doing a spring and oil change only, how much oil do I put back in? Should I use the stock 5w? I'm about 195 w/o gear.

you can use 5wt oil, many people go for Mobil ATF (7.5wt). Both should fine.

You can start with 365ml and add if necessary

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This is how I change the fork oil on my KTM300, KX100, KX250f, and YZ85 forks. Yours is probably the same. The center rod does not have to come out at the bottom, only the cap and spring need be removed from the rod.

Wrong fork(s), buddy

here we talking about a 47 Showa TwinChamber

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Do not run the Mobile ATF unless you plan on servicing the forks often. The Mobile works great but doesn't not last long and requires service much more often than regular fork oil....

theDogger

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Thanx guys, I'll be using Maxima 5wt. I was hoping I wouldn't have to remove the nut and rod at the botton, but apparently it's necessary.

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