Photo's of subframe munching my chain!

It took me a year to realize that the axel blocks are different on each side of the bike. So, if you align both at the 3rd mark for example, you are not even close to straight....which leads to chain slap and rubbing the sub-frame...

Your right. I just checked and they have two different part numbers. Going to check mine today to make sure they are right.:thumbsup:

Yes, basically the one on the sprocket side has 3 less hash marks, so #1 hash mark on the left side = 4th hash mark on the right side.

:thumbsup:

Tried to eliminate that problem also with these Axel blocks...

Picture1344.jpg

D.I.D. also makes a slimmer chain for just this problem. I picked mine up today its the VT enduro chain. I want to be able to keep the chain at spec so this should help. As far as the stock axle blocks, I cracked the chain side block torqing to the specs at 90lbs. I have a set of Pro Circuits coming tommorow. I look at it as O.E.M. clean up.

Guys,

Thanks for the heads-up about the chain adjusting blocks having a different number of markings. I would never had noticed, like most people I just counted from the rear.

&%$#@! were Yamaha thinking about when they did this?

They make no mention of the fact that the block markings are different in the manual either, oh but very usefully they do congratulate the new owner on the purchase of a WR which represents the highest grade of craftmanship! Wankers

Guys,

Thanks for the heads-up about the chain adjusting blocks having a different number of markings. I would never had noticed, like most people I just counted from the rear.

&%$#@! were Yamaha thinking about when they did this?

They make no mention of the fact that the block markings are different in the manual either, oh but very usefully they do congratulate the new owner on the purchase of a WR which represents the highest grade of craftmanship! Wankers

Come on guys you are creating a problem that isn't there. Yes the two blocks are different and the number of lines on them are different but if you use the lines starting from the back of the bike they are exactly the same. It was never intended that you count the lines starting from the front of the bike as the adjustment.

I thought it was like wiping, from front to back. Or was that back to front?

Come on guys you are creating a problem that isn't there. Yes the two blocks are different and the number of lines on them are different but if you use the lines starting from the back of the bike they are exactly the same. It was never intended that you count the lines starting from the front of the bike as the adjustment.

If you read some of the twenty odd replies to this post so far you will see that there is confusion due to the different lines on the blocks.

Yamaha should at least mention it in the manual or put equal markings on both blocks.

I'm surprised that with the amount of petty product litigation that goes on in the US that Yamaha have not addressed this.

mcflzwr450f, Does the T.M. Designworks Chain Guide and everything work to eliminate the chain rubbing on the subframe?

mcflzwr450f, Does the T.M. Designworks Chain Guide and everything work to eliminate the chain rubbing on the subframe?[/QUOT

I haven't had any chain rub but its still new, when I ordered the parts I was told it would eliminate the chain rub problem. It quiets the chain slap and that it does. You can run the chain tighter with this set up, not sure if I would want to run a tight chain. Looks cool too...:thumbsup:

I have an 0,4 yz 450 that is doing the same thing,and i keep the tension in spec.I am not going to worry about it.BTW IT SPITS XR,S .

Thats good, Please be sure to keep us updated if you get wear with the T.M. Designworks, they also stated on the site that the had a one year warranty on all parts. I'm thinking it will work but I just want to be 100% sure and heck yes, it DOES look cool :thumbsup:

I've been running the T.M. slider and chain guide on my YZ, WR and KTM. They all have 100+ hrs of use. I discovered there product 2 years ago, they are bomb proof. Jeff S

I've been running the T.M. slider and chain guide on my YZ, WR and KTM. They all have 100+ hrs of use. I discovered there product 2 years ago, they are bomb proof. Jeff S

That's great...:thumbsup:

Thats very good to hear, maybe I will order one this weekend. :thumbsup:

Some one back there said to get your sub frame welded. Don't do it. Very bad idea. Also, aluminum is currently used for marketing purposes. The weight savings are negligble. They want you to buy a new bike, not repair yours. Aluminum costs more, is more difficult to manufacture into components, takes up more space, and is not as tough as good old steel. Look at a Ducati. Ducati doesn't need to market their stuff- they rely on their reputation for sales.

Right...... you never had rub before so how do you know if it prevents it....Looks like good quality gear...but doubt it will prevent chain slap if your bike has the problem...can tell by looking at it simply changing sliders won't fix it...the impact on the sub frame is 1.5-2 inches above the slider...JMO..build a shield.

Right...... you never had rub before so how do you know if it prevents it....Looks like good quality gear...but doubt it will prevent chain slap if your bike has the problem...can tell by looking at it simply changing sliders won't fix it...the impact on the sub frame is 1.5-2 inches above the slider...JMO..build a shield.

Roger that dl19, a new chain slider will do jack s__t when the chain is 2" above it!!!

Just had a look then, my 03" WR is the same,i will put on some tape then a small stainless tube clamp over the tape so the s/s doesn't cut into the alloy,Fixed...............

The chain is kept within spec on my '07 WR 450 and no chain slap at all.

I was doing some maintenance on my 03 WR450 today, checked my subframe and there is no marking or damage at all... I took the original chain of this bike when I bought it, it was EXTREMELY worn and loose. In fact, the chain was digging away at the mudflap, but NO marks on the subframe.

I have a new chain on it now, a Regina O-ring, but if anything I keep it on the loose side of the adjustment.

I am starting to wonder if it isn't manufacturing differences when the bikes are being built??:thumbsup:

Dave

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