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BRP Front Brake Lock up

7 posts in this topic

Any one ever had trouble with the front brakes on a XR650R? I searched and didn't see much on it. I've got a 2000 XR650R dual sported.

Was riding to class today, had stopped at a stop light. Then about .5 mile down the road, already in 5th, the motor suddenly seems to lug. I thought the bottom end of the motor was tightening up about to lock, like a few people's crank's have. Made it about another .25 mile before there was somewhere to pull off. As I let off the gas, the motor idled fine but the brakes were already applied for me. Didn't have to use any front brake lever , it was starting to get real hot from being applied the last bit.

Got her back home in the truck to check it out. The rotor is warped and colored, Trailtech magnet is missing from the holder, hardly any front line pressure (from boiling I guess), pads scored, dust seals in caliper starting to melt. So the only thing I've changed recently is adding the Trailtech. I used the magnet in the anodized piece with a snap ring that holds it in. The anodized peice and snap ring was still there, just no magnet in the center. And I also added some more lever pressure, via the screw in the backside of the brake lever. After both of those I spun the wheel off the ground to check for binding.

Both of these have been fine for the last ~50 miles I've been riding like that. It wasn't exceptionally warm today that could have caused extra drag. Did the speedo magnet come out and cause problems(magnet was nowhere to be found afterwards)? Did the pistons get bound in the bores and create the drag? Any other ideas? Atleast I was lucky enought o have ordered a big EBC rotor and new pads yesterday. Now I just need to get some caliper seals. I'm still curious as to what happened though.

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You adjusted the brake screw and pressure built up.

Yep no free play in the lever before the screw hits the brake plunger.

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So because there was no free play, the ambient temp heated the brake fluid in the lines causing it to expand making the plunger actuate? Is that right? Makes total sense.....

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I knew turning in the brake screw would add residual line pressure. It just didn't seem to make much sense that after I adjusted it I pumped the brakes a few times then spun the wheel in the air to check for drag and it was fine. Was thinking maybe the problem was something other than the screw adjustment since there seemed to be no drag, and had no problems for first 50 miles.

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50 miles is quite a ways, the couple I've seen happened within 5 miles or so.

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So because there was no free play, the ambient temp heated the brake fluid in the lines causing it to expand making the plunger actuate? Is that right? Makes total sense.....

I think just some brake use causes it to heat up and then stuck city.The rotor will cup so bad it looks like a deep plate and turns a nice shade of blue.

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