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exaresix

Dual sport conversion: AC or DC?

11 posts in this topic

I want to convert an xr600r to dual sport soon, and am not sure which system is better. Most kits such as Baja Designs , use a DC system that uses a small battery to provide the final power to the lights & horn, whereas one could also set the bike up like the Aussie xr600 with AC only for the entire system.

I'd be interested to hear from some that have tried the AC setup, and whether there were any problems with the horn, turn signal module, or blown bulbs. (I realize that the this setup requires a higher output stator and heavy duty rectifier.)

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I use the AC setup on my XR650- wanted to keep it minimal since I also race it occasionally. I have a 200 watt stator from Baja designs and a mix of lighting. The only problem I have is the blinkers may not blink at a long low idle and the horn does not seem to work good.

Nice and easy kit.

I am switching to a Wheeling Cycle Supply led taillight setup for the stock taillight- bulbs keep blowing during heavy offroad. ($20)

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Check you requirements. The reason for DC is the already mentioned problems with turn signals at idle and the fact that most states require that the lights stay on when the engine is off.

Horns are high current draw devices. They tend not to work well on AC only systems.

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An additional factor worth considering is that many of the LED products don't work well with AC. I wanted and LED tail/stop and turn signals, so I went DC.

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DC is good if it is permanent dual sport. Make sure you have the onboard charging system for the battery versus the older style where you have to manually charge the battery. I have one bike with each. The onboard charging system is nice.

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I like the DC setup with the battery simply due to the fact that the battery supplies the voltage ballast necessary to prevent the light dimming and strangling frog sounding horn problem previously mentioned. Also, in my state, a battery is required on a street licensed bike.

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bought my bike with both - one AC and one DC 100 watt output. The main headlight bulb runs on AC, rest on DC. Works quite well.

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I also did AC only on my XR650R for simplicity, and because my state doesn't check for the lights to be on when the bike is off. I don't have a horn, because they only seem to work well with DC, but my LED brakelight works great in AC which is why I used it.

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.... but my LED brakelight works great in AC which is why I used it.

I coudlnt get my led taillight to work on AC, so I installed a small rectifier in-line to the tailight. It converts AC to DC and works perfectly.

I run 2 seperate systems. AC runs headlight and tailight. Signals and Horn run on a rechargeable battery that I recharge myself every 3-4 weeks. I store the battery in the airbox and run the wires from the removed snorkel hole.

BTW, my bike is a 1999 XR250R DS in Ontario, Canada.

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I coudlnt get my led taillight to work on AC, so I installed a small rectifier in-line to the tailight. It converts AC to DC and works perfectly.

I run 2 seperate systems. AC runs headlight and tailight. Signals and Horn run on a rechargeable battery that I recharge myself every 3-4 weeks. I store the battery in the airbox and run the wires from the removed snorkel hole.

BTW, my bike is a 1999 XR250R DS in Ontario, Canada.

That sounds like a nice setup. Do you or anyone know if the stock stator AC output (90 Watts) is enough to run a high/low beam headlight along with the tail/brake light. I don't mind the dimming when I hit the brake.

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I have a 97 XR600 w/BD kit. Stock stator is fine. Charges no prob. Blinlers/brake/horn work as they should.

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