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XR650R bike Project


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First let me say I really enjoy this forum. I have gotten these ideas from here and other places mentioned here, so thanks. I race harescrambles on a CRF450R modified for the trails.

What do you guys think about this project?

The bike is planned to be ridden in the Vegas to Reno race in 2008. The main goal is to safely finish the race. Here is what I have headed my way for the bike. What are your thoughts? What would you do different and why?

2007 XR650R

Uncorked.

Protaper Bars.

Scotts stabilizer mounted up top.

Shark fin.

UNI Filter.

Utah skid plate.

T-4 Pro Circuit full exhaust.

Sidewinder Tri sprocket 48 tooth.

Sidewinder Tri Moly CS sprocket 15 tooth.

Sidewinder fancy o-ring chain in 10,000 lbs 520.

Jetting will be 172, 175, or 180 main with 68s or 70s pilot.

Clarke tank (near) 4 gallons. I haven't decided on exactly which one.

Ricky stator 200 watt setup.

Race Tech lights.

Factory Connection suspension revalving and respring.

Bridgstone ED77 front and back.

Bridgestone ultra heavy duty tubes.

These tires are a starting place. We will test in various conditions to see how they work.

I am not planning to do anything else to the motor. I think it will be plenty just jetting properly and letting it breathe.

I would like a speedometer, any suggestions. Maybe Maier hand guards. I do not have the stator, lights or tank ordered yet.

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Sounds like you would be well on your way with a nice race bike. If the bike doesnt have better foot pegs yet, I would get some. I would also consider doing some radiator guards. Other than that I couldnt see you needing much else. I also like the IMS 3.2 tank better but it depends how far you are between stops. Good Luck.

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Depending on your height, you might want to get the top triple clamp that has the SUB specialty. It raises the bars, and puts the stabilizer under them. For some reason, the BRP seems kinda cramped in stock form.

Since your going through the effort of the uni filter and the PC full exhaust, you might want to open up the side cover too so you can take advantage of those two things. https://secure.srcinc.net/prodpage.cfm?Cat_Selected=1&SubCat_Selected=16&Product_Selected=1684&StartRow=11

Since the bike will be new, you might not have to worry about this. But, this goes along with the footpegs. The right one is notoriuos for busting off mid-race. So, go with the kritter fix. http://www.animalhousedesigns.net/products.htm

As far as speedo's go, the trailtech Vapor seems to be pretty popular, as it monitors almost all major functions (water temp, mph, etc.).

I personally like the Acerbis Rally-Pro guards; the ones that are alum and plastic all in one.

As for the sprokets, make sure they are NOT alum, cause the piggy will eat those things up. Although, since your not planning to do any real LONG rides, alum might be okay. I guess thats up for a toss...

Depending on the terrain, I'd reccommend a HARD tire. I've had many different types of tires on my piggy, and it seems the Maxxis Desert IT seems to hold up the best. I've had Dunlops and Michelins, and while ALL the tires chunk quite a bit, the Maxxis was the most resistant to chunking of the ones I've had.

I'm sure others will chime in, but thats just my .02

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If you're going to race Vegas to Reno, you won't need a light at all, you should be done before it gets dark. Everyone I know that races it never uses a light.

Precision Concepts does a great job on the 650R's suspension.

I also feel that a speedo is a distraction that could lead you to an unwanted helicopter ride.

The stock hand guards are the best for deflecting brush, and branches, while not letting your forearms get caught up, which will keep you from detaching from the bike in a crash, and generally F you up.(I'm talking about those bulletproof aluminum hoops that go on the handlebars.) Of course I've only heard of one guy in a wheelchair because of those things.

I also think the stock skid plate is the best because when it gets hit hard, it will bounce back to it's original shape, and not stay deflected becoming a wedge that will put a hole in your case

Just my opinion, take it or leave it

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If you're building a bike now, why are you going to wait 'till '08 to race VtoR? The bike you build now will be beat 14 months from now. You're getting ready now, perfect timing for the '07 VtoR.

No speedo, just a distraction like mentioned.

I like the Cycra pro-bend hand guards, the aluminum bar keeps it's shape far better than the Acerbis aluminum types.

? on the Precision suspension.

Headlight depends on how fast you are. At least get a rewind and the OEM glass replacement w/100w bulb - it's the most economical and has very good light considering how long (if at all) you'd be using it.

? on the top triple clamp/bar mounts. Stock top clamp & bar position sucks.

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What part of texas are you in? I'm in austin and have a XR650R I've pimped out.

You should really think about Dual Sporting the bike out. Mine is barely street legal so I can ride the roads between trails etc. We have some great training rides out in west texas that can get your speed up for desert racing.

Plus.. if you need a partner for the race let me know. I'd be up for the BtoV

First let me say I really enjoy this forum. I have gotten these ideas from here and other places mentioned here, so thanks. I race harescrambles on a CRF450R modified for the trails.

What do you guys think about this project?

The bike is planned to be ridden in the Vegas to Reno race in 2008. The main goal is to safely finish the race. Here is what I have headed my way for the bike. What are your thoughts? What would you do different and why?

2007 XR650R

Uncorked.

Protaper Bars.

Scotts stabilizer mounted up top.

Shark fin.

UNI Filter.

Utah skid plate.

T-4 Pro Circuit full exhaust.

Sidewinder Tri sprocket 48 tooth.

Sidewinder Tri Moly CS sprocket 15 tooth.

Sidewinder fancy o-ring chain in 10,000 lbs 520.

Jetting will be 172, 175, or 180 main with 68s or 70s pilot.

Clarke tank (near) 4 gallons. I haven't decided on exactly which one.

Ricky stator 200 watt setup.

Race Tech lights.

Factory Connection suspension revalving and respring.

Bridgstone ED77 front and back.

Bridgestone ultra heavy duty tubes.

These tires are a starting place. We will test in various conditions to see how they work.

I am not planning to do anything else to the motor. I think it will be plenty just jetting properly and letting it breathe.

I would like a speedometer, any suggestions. Maybe Maier hand guards. I do not have the stator, lights or tank ordered yet.

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My .02

Dunlops (desert at- front FAJ model if you can get one)

Dry break- - probably 7-10 fillups- save you 15-20 minutes.

(I run the IMS 4.3 gal- feels ok- lots of fuel)

Pony up the 1k for Precision concepts suspension- well worth it - especially on long stints for old guys.

Have fun. Still trying to get my crew to do that race.

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The HRC cam is a nice add on if you want to keep the autodecompressor. Your bike will pull all the way to the rev limiter. Jetting differences are minimal from regular cam (178 or 180 main). With the 15/48, the HRC cam will pull pretty good.

I like the Trailtech Vapor Speedo for when you stop to look at temp, distance, avg speed, etc.

Radiator guards - I like the works connection rad guards and using the stock plastic fin deflectors. This combo gives you great cooling while protecting the sides of the radiators in a crash. The other guards block off air which is bad when it is hot and you are riding in slow areas or doing hill climbs.

Radiator Shrouds - Drill a 1/4" hole in the stiffener ribs next to the top of the fins on the radiator shrouds. Run a zip tie through the hole around the edge of the radiator in the gap at the top of the fins. This will keep your shrouds tucked in at high speed and in the event of a bad crash.

Right side panel - You can also run a zip tie through the forward top edge of the side panel to the frame to keep this guy tight. There is only 1 bolt that keeps it on.

Set-up the chain link count to keep your wheel forward in the adjustment range for better turning. Tight stuff, I drop my front end about 1/4"-3/8" on the forks for even better turning. Wide open high-speed, I keep the front end high on the forks for better stability.

Check your clutch cable at the engine case end. Pull the boot forward (off of the end of the cable housing) to see if the cable is rubbing the metal end of the housing. If it is, then reposition cable housing in the clamp to keep it from rubbing. Put boot back. Its a good thing to check periodically.

Petcock - Some people get a different fuel petcock setup for racing.

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If you're building a bike now, why are you going to wait 'till '08 to race VtoR? The bike you build now will be beat 14 months from now. You're getting ready now, perfect timing for the '07 VtoR.

No speedo, just a distraction like mentioned.

I like the Cycra pro-bend hand guards, the aluminum bar keeps it's shape far better than the Acerbis aluminum types.

? on the Precision suspension.

Headlight depends on how fast you are. At least get a rewind and the OEM glass replacement w/100w bulb - it's the most economical and has very good light considering how long (if at all) you'd be using it.

? on the top triple clamp/bar mounts. Stock top clamp & bar position sucks.

The wait is called "MONEY" and also the same for the team members. Now if I could find a sponsor that would mean this year OK.

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What part of texas are you in? I'm in austin and have a XR650R I've pimped out.

You should really think about Dual Sporting the bike out. Mine is barely street legal so I can ride the roads between trails etc. We have some great training rides out in west texas that can get your speed up for desert racing.

Plus.. if you need a partner for the race let me know. I'd be up for the BtoV

I am in the Conroe area. I do not intend to dual-sport at this time, but would be interested in the training rides.

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I am in the Conroe area. I do not intend to dual-sport at this time, but would be interested in the training rides.

That's the problem though with texas.. to ride some of the best desert rides here, the bike needs to be street legal. to get from one section to the next.

big bend is a great place to ride and has awesome desert roads and trails but the bike has to be street legal.

good luck with the build.

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