What Type Of Oil?

Oil is like religion.....everybody has a different opinion, and it is all based on different interpretations of reading the same information.

There is a ton of good scientific oil info out there. Read it for yourself, cut past the emotion and "religion", and base your decidions on what the science tells us! For me, if someone can't read all this and get the picture that a synthetic API SG/JASO MA oil is the safest way to go, then I hope they run piss in their engine and pay the price for their stupidity!!!

Let us know how that radical muslim outlook on things treats you.

Simply put, no, that is not the reason. Most all modern engine oils are designed to and work well to prevent metal-to-metal contact. The reasons we use diesel-spec oils are:

1. They have higher zinc and phosphorous which is good for sliding parts like valvetrain while containing less molybdenum which is bad for clutches. Lots of modern oils intended for gas engine passenger cars would work just as well, but many also have lots of moly in varying amounts, which is simply why we don't use them.

2. It costs $2.50-3.50 per quart versus motorcycle-spec oil at $8.00+ per quart.

The main issue today is that the diesel oils (Rotella, Delo, and Devlac) have been reformulated to meet the SM standard. That means low zinc and phosphorous just like the car oils. They have "new" additive packages. One of those is a moly compound. There are two kinds of moly. The first is the MoS2 that we all know and it is deadly for clutches. The other is an organo metallic moly and it doesn't have the same clutch killing problems.

I know for a fact that Shell will still have the old formulation Rotella available until 2010. I bought about 15 gallons of it before the change and that is what I'm using. Hopefully when my stash runs out we will know for sure if the newer diesel oils are still good for MC use.

carl what rotella is that you use? What color is the bottle or whatever? regular dino or synthetic? Thanks i know theres a few color bottles and styles but never paid any attention.

The 15W-40 dino version. It was reformulated in 2007. The synthetic 5W-40 was supposed to be reformulated right about now. the synthetic is in a blue jug. The dino 15W-40 it is a while gallon plastic jug. The new formulation has a much brighter more colorful label. The old stuff is more plain. I have not seen the old stuff for over a year at normal retail places. The old stuff should be orderable at a "real" oil dealer.

Molybdenum dithiocarbomate (MoDTC), the "other moly" is more of a "friction modifer" than it is a "high pressure anti-wear additive" for protection of your gears, so it is not really a good replacement for ZDDP in a motorcycle transmission. It does however have the advantage of being a friction modifier that will not make a clutch slip, so it is a good additive to have in a motorcycle oil!

The Redline MC oil I am running, contains MoDTC as well as proprietary organic friction modifiers, and I have to say that my engine revs up faster and I am seeing a horsepower increase with this oil, based on a "seat of the pants" evaluation anyway (I haven't dynoed it).

The 15W-40 dino version. It was reformulated in 2007. The synthetic 5W-40 was supposed to be reformulated right about now. the synthetic is in a blue jug. The dino 15W-40 it is a while gallon plastic jug. The new formulation has a much brighter more colorful label. The old stuff is more plain. I have not seen the old stuff for over a year at normal retail places. The old stuff should be orderable at a "real" oil dealer.

anything like these?

http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view?back=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%2Fimages%3Fei%3DUTF-8%26p%3Dshell%2520rotella%2520t%26fr2%3Dtab-web%26fr%3Dyfp-t-501&w=159&h=243&imgurl=www.shell.com%2Fstatic%2Frotella-en%2Fimages%2Fpressreleases%2Fcj-4_triple_bottle_big.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.shell.com%2Fhome%2FFramework%3FsiteId%3Drotella-en%26amp%3BFC2%3D%2Frotella-en%2Fhtml%2Fiwgen%2Fpress_release_2006%2Fzzz_lhn.html%26amp%3BFC3%3D%2Frotella-en%2Fhtml%2Fiwgen%2Fpress_release_2006%2Fcj-4_intro_1006.html&size=13.8kB&name=cj-4_triple_bottle_big.jpg&p=shell%20rotella%20t&type=JPG&oid=a36c72d316f04ea8&no=5&tt=72

What intervals are you changing your oil with the shell?

and I have to say that my engine revs up faster and I am seeing a horsepower increase with this oil, based on a "seat of the pants" evaluation anyway (I haven't dynoed it).

I doubt many oils you really can notice a big difference to tell you the truth. Ive used quite a few over the years in several race bikes and could never tell that much of a difference that i would say i could tell noticeably.

I doubt many oils you really can notice a big difference to tell you the truth. Ive used quite a few over the years in several race bikes and could never tell that much of a difference that i would say i could tell noticeably.

"But the package said....":mad:

I gets my oil at the NOX store. Tis slickerer!!

Yes, that's the new formulation. $9/gal at WalMart.

I don't really change it according to a rigorous schedule. Maybe if I had an hour meter I would. I change it when it starts looking like it is building up a lot of crud or after a really severe ride. If I had to guess it would be between 300 to as much as 800 miles.

K thanks, i do mine ever 1000 since i have a speedo but i might give it a try. Im not paying alot fof the Valvoline ($3 qt) but might give it a try.

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