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KtmKramer

Showa suspension harsh

21 posts in this topic

Hi guys

2006 RM250. Fork shims are stock w/ RaceTech G2R Gold Valves (previous owner had them put in. Stock valves were lost.), w/ 5W oil. Shock shims are stock w/ G2R valve as well. Below are the stock shim settings from the factory, same that are in the bike now.

I ride MX (sand and hardpack) w/ this bike. Lake Elsinore, Cahuilla, etc. No major jumps. Tables, small doubles, but usually lots of hack and braking bumps. I weigh 170 w/out gear. Consider myself a novice MX rider moving toward intermediate. The braking and accel bumps KILL my wrists. Major spike in the mid. G-outs are ok. I've gone in and out on comp and reb, to no avail.

FORKS

47mm, Showa Twin Chamber forks, .44 kg stock, 350 cc, range adj 321/415

(15) .10x30

(2) .10x29

.10x28

.10x27

.10x26

.10x25

.10x24

.10x23

.10x22

.10x21

.15x20

Stock Bleed stack

16.3

10.2

12.1

14.1

15.1

16.1

16.1

SHOCK – 18mm shaft, 5.3 spring, 100 rider sag

.30x21

.30x22

.25x24

.25x26

.25x28

.25x30

.25x32

.25x34

.25x36

.25x38

.25x40

.20x42

.10x30

.15x38

(9).20x44

Piston

(3).20x40

.10x22

(5).30x40

.20x40

.10x32

.30x40

.30x38

.30x36

.30x34

.30x32

.30x30

.30x29

.30x28

.30x27

.30x26

.30x25

Spacers

Nut

I'd like a plush suspension for the hack/square edge bumps, w/ no real need for major bottoming resistance since I don't do big jumps. Any ideas are appreciated.

Thank you!

Gentry

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I would call some of the local susp shops that use RateTech products and see if they will selll you the stock pistons for both ends. They should have a bucket full of them...

Or even call Pro-Action or MX-Tech? Without Racetech's help you are going to have a tough go of it...

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Here this might help found it on the internet with a little searching...but I would still try and get the OEM valves back in.

rt.jpg

theDogger

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ktmkramer, i'm about your weight etc and with the stock setup i find the shock the plushest i've ever had, but the fork just a little harsh. i'd love to hear the doggers view on how to plush up the fork without making it too soft on bigger landings. :applause:

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take 4 of the .10-30 shims and put on the base washer. i.e. from top of stack to bottom. cant help u with the shock.

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Thanks, guys. Dogger, you fricking rock! I'll run over to Pro-tec and see if they have some OEM pistons.

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Anybody: What level should I start at on the LSC and HSC on the chart? They have 20 levels for Pete's sake!! cL10 and cH10 then salt to taste?

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That is going to be pretty stiff. I would start in the middle somewhere. Try Brian Wilson on TT he setup up his own RT Valves seemed to know quite a bit about them.

This sheet that I posted came from SuperMoto and his setting that were suggested by RT are in RED! He said that he is an A Class MX rider.

cR10.22

cL6

cG20

cH4

He seemed to like it, had to mess with the oil level a little though....

theDogger

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That is going to be pretty stiff. I would start in the middle somewhere. Try Brian Wilson on TT he setup up his own RT Valves seemed to know quite a bit about them.

This sheet that I posted came from SuperMoto and his setting that were suggested by RT are in RED! He said that he is an A Class MX rider.

cR10.22

cL6

cG20

cH4

He seemed to like it, had to mess with the oil level a little though....

theDogger

For your weight and speed I would back down a bit to cL5 & cH2.

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I would stick to single stage and use CH3 but replace the top shim with (3).10x30 oil level at 370cc.

There are other things that need to be done to remove the spike from these forks than the passive valving however.

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I would stick to single stage and use CH3 but replace the top shim with (3).10x30 oil level at 370cc.

There are other things that need to be done to remove the spike from these forks than the passive valving however.

Is that with the G2-R piston?

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with the G2's in they felt a little better,but I realised they said I needed .47 springs where as i'm running .48's,I have changed back to stock .46's and waiting to see how they ride.

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put in a .46 on one leg and you'll end up with a .47 total

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I would stick to single stage and use CH3 but replace the top shim with (3).10x30 oil level at 370cc.

There are other things that need to be done to remove the spike from these forks than the passive valving however.

Such as? Any help is appreciated in trying to get these forks dialed in.

Thanks

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I KNOW "Roo" has The Killer "MV" for these forks!!! Come on Roo, let`s see IT!!:applause:

Oh and yes Roo, I know who Ben Townley(spl) is now:applause:

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My midvalve is set-up for off road. It would probably work better for you to open the float a little. More gains were made when I modified the compression bypass piston. I'm not on my computer with all my specs, but if you send me an email greg at proride.co.nz I will send you some specs later that I have used to get a great feeling fork for off road, sand, tree roots and MX.

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