Which Rekluse is best? the Z or the Pro?

ill do that barron guys mod this winter, what the point on having a rekluse if it "Stalls your bike for you" im leaning towards trusting my 3 fingers with my clutching rather than rekluse behing "reliable" as it is. .. joke..

i have e mailed rekluse i have called them. what poor service. i get the same answer i cant stand them

My2cents... I added the stronger wave spring from Rekluse. This allowed me to turn up the idle slightly before having it engage the engine. I also run the pilot in the lean side using the fuel screw. And, wala! My stalling issues ended. Good modification to the bike. Ride ride sand whoops, sand trails, and high desert mountains. I like my rekluse.

By the way, after 1 call and 10 minutes chatting on the phone, this was what Rekluse recommended. They even sent the heavier wave spring free -- and paid the shipping cost also. No problems here with their customer service.

The rekluse in no way is causing the stalling talked about here. You can stall out any four stroke by going from idle to full throttle to fast. Go find a nice muddy pit and slowly go into it and then try and shoot some roost. If you turn the throttle fast enough it WILL stall. Nothing to do with the clutch.

i have the correct gap settings on my rekluse, when im chewing up a hill and i hop a log, just before i snap the throttle to get my front end up and once i get over it stalls. What the hell? oh, it did it on flat too, i was coming up to a log at just over idle speed, enough rmp that the rekluse is engaged quite well, and i snap the throttle and it stalls.. WAT THE Heck. why is this happening. why is it stalling. it wouldent be that big of a deal other then its motto is wont stall under regular conditions. and well this is regular. not 2 mention its a freaking 450 4 stroke and its hell trying to start it.

This is a jetting issue.

Tried running a Rekluse on my 06 and had stalling under the same conditions you mentioned. Messed with the jetting for hours. The bike would idle in gear, it wouldn't stall if you stomped on the brakes and completely locked up the rear wheel but it would stall under the conditions you mentioned. Best solution I found was to remove the Rekluse, sell it, and install the heavy Yamaha flywheel. Stalling problem completely cured.

well the rekluse does make the bike more jetting sensative but the benefits are worth messing with the carb.....worst case scenario your bike will be jetted properly;not really a bad thing. just before this thread started i ordered up the pro to replace my old z start,and just recieved it; i can tell you just by looking at the improvements in the mechanical engineering,adjustability,ease of install,wider range of adjustment,and at least twice the beefiness of the old parts..... the pro is worth twice as much as the old one and its only about a 1/3 $ more:thumbsup: i'll report back with a side by side test as soon as i get it in next wk,i've been running the z start for yrs now and am exited that the pro is so improved;good job al :thumbsup:

ive learned that i cant snap the throttle on my 450, and i dont. i came rolling to a log and i casually roll on the throttle and before i get a 1/4 open it stalled.

according to EGA "exhaust Gas Analyzer" my jetting is exactly perfect for the elevation that i ride. im beginning to fiddle around with my fuel screw. i have came to the conclusion that performance is everything. even if it causes more ware and tare on the engine LEAN MACHINE!

No disrepect ncmountainman but those were not my findings. I wasted so much time on jetting, time that could have been spent riding, and never did get the stalling to quit. I tried every combo of pilot from a 38 to 52 and fuel screw setting. Never could get the bike to perform to my satisfaction until I removed the Rekluse and changed back to my original jetting. In the end I wasted many hours of my life and lost many dollars on resale because of the Rekluse. Not an item I would ever recommend. I know I am in the minority of the people on TT, but I just report what MY experiences are.

No disrepect ncmountainman but those were not my findings. I wasted so much time on jetting, time that could have been spent riding, and never did get the stalling to quit. I tried every combo of pilot from a 38 to 52 and fuel screw setting. Never could get the bike to perform to my satisfaction until I removed the Rekluse and changed back to my original jetting. In the end I wasted many hours of my life and lost many dollars on resale because of the Rekluse. Not an item I would ever recommend. I know I am in the minority of the people on TT, but I just report what MY experiences are.

same..... i just didn't give up so easily, thats why i went to the edelbrock;hasn't stalled since. i've been hearing good things about the zip-ty mod and factory r&d bowl i think since the fcr's just collecting dust i'll send it out and see which works better and sell the other:thumbsup: from what information i've gathered this problem seems much worse on the yz450's than any other bike:excuseme: i did find what worked best stock was was the smallest possible pilot,combined with a little bit rich main and a EMS needle 4th clip....and then as your bike heated during the ride you'd need to reach down and lean out the fuel screw(after awhile you got a feel for when/how much. of course you must have a proper lj and squirt timing also...i used a 40 lj with the AP arm wired. it would still every now and again die,thats where the ebrock came in,it still took a couple days and some minor mods but its fixed.

NC,

The Zip-Ty mod is excellent. I had it done on my bike post rekluse. Perhaps if I had done it prior to the rekluse installation everything would have been fine. At this time however I am completely satisfied with the way my bike performs and don't want to go down the rekluse road again.

My bike is doing the same thing on tight technical single track. I am not taking my rekluse off the bike, like that thing to much. The pros simply outweigh the cons to much. I was thinking about ordering a Boyesen Quickshot. Does anyone think this might help the problem any or make it worse?

My dealer said it would help my problem so, i dont see why it wouldent, but before i buy a quick shot im doing that barrons mod

Does anyone think this might help the problem ...?
No. No part of the accelerator pump system has anything whatever to do with idle down stalling.

it has alot to do with idle up stalling;my edelbrock has a externally adjustable AP squirt and its a awesome prospect to say the least. i beleive there are a couple out there for the fcr's,and to all those i've heard say well just put in the proper lj and forget it.....you don't realize the extra adjustability until you have it;i've changed mine 3-4 different times already for differing conditions and found it really lets you tune to the fullest:thumbsup: as far as the cover helping;it did on my fcr with the rekluse but didn't totally solve the issue....i think either sending the fcr for the zip ty mod and maybe the R&D bowl (which i beleive has the adj AP) or going to the ebrock is the only real fix. i'm sending my fcr to zip ty then going to do a back to back with the ebrock and will report back,probly won't be for a month or so:excuseme: oughta be interesting:ride:

the zip tye mod is really nothing more than boring out the main air jet air passage way and installing a new emulsifier and a way smaller main jet (down to a 148 from a 192 on 250f's that were running toluene) factory performance makes the kit itself, and have a lot of good tips on their website. Took me all of 15 minutes to do myself. It is a great mod adds tons of range to a fuel tank due the better atomization of the fuel and makes a cleaner powerband. you'll see what I mean when you do it, it just feels crisper at all rpms.

Dont forget to opt for their titanium needle if they offer it, titanium is trick sounding to people that dont know what it is. :thumbsup:

what exactly does a ti needle do that the same profile in aluminum (or whatever they're made of) wouldn't do:excuseme: is it that the fuel atomizes better off it? i've always thought ti had a rougher finish than the part it replaced.

I doubt it does anything special other than the taper is matched to the new emulsifier/main jet. Possibly just another way to eek $100 out of you.

I never tried it against a regular needle to see what the taper was so I really dont even know if it actually does have a "special" taper. I would assume so though since the main jet goes down so much smaller.

factory performance makes the kit itself, and have a lot of good tips on their website.

Link please. Googling factory performance produces 10,710 hits.

here's the link for the yz450 kit page

http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prodcy45.html

I remembered what the claim to fame was for the titanium needle, it was supposed to be way longer lasting than the regular needle. The regular needle gets a wear ring on it from sliding in the main jet. the titanium stops the wear supposedly.

Check the dyno curve for the 250. I havent put a kit on the 450's yet as I simply havent had time to even ride. But the kit is awesome on the 250's. http://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prodcy25wr%20yzf%20250.html

Thanks, Phil, but except for the fact that you avoid shipping your carb around the country, and that you "get to" do it yourself (both of which may be worth it to some people), the price is the same $100 that Zip-Ty charges to do it for you, right?

Still, it's interesting.

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