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mpl239

Lowering the 426

16 posts in this topic

There are many things you can do to it. Shave the seat foam, lowering links, cutomize the subframe, ect.. Depending on how much money you want to spend, you could even put a 20" front and 18" rear wheels on it.

How tall are you?

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6', but short legs. Any reccomends on lowering links?

There is a company called MMS, they make lowering links for the YZF's. We have one on my wifes 250F. It lowered the seat height 1.5". So far its been perfect for her. I'd definitely recommend one. A google search should come up with there website.

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I just went thru the lowering of my bike and found the shaving of the stock seat top benefit me the most. It only took an hour and cost of a few staples to put the seat cover back on...very easy and gave me 1.5 inches. The link only gave my bike 3/8" and was advertised to give 1.5"...that cost $139.99 and didn't do much. good luck!

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Here is a couple pictures of her bike with the lowering link. Her seat has been shaved also. She is 5'5".

IMAG0010.jpg

SSL10010.jpg

11_12_06_motocros_action_0041.jpg

Here it is bottomed out.

56.jpg

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... you could even put a 20" front and 18" rear wheels on it.
That won't actually lower the bike, because the half inch you loose in the rims is returned in a larger tire size at the front (90 vs. 80) and the usually larger aspect ratio in the rear (110/100 vs. 110/90).

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That won't actually lower the bike, because the half inch you loose in the rims is returned in a larger tire size at the front (90 vs. 80) and the usually larger aspect ratio in the rear (110/100 vs. 110/90).

It does lower the bike even with the different aspect ratios. Its not much, but it is lower. Despite the given aspect ratios on the side wall the rear is almost a 1/2 inch less in diameter and the front is a 1/4 inch. Divided in half thats 1/8 inch on the front and 1/4 on the rear, thats not much difference, but for some it can make the difference.

I wouldn't go quite to those extremes to lower a bike, but I do know someone who has.

The lowering link, shaving the seat, and raising the forks in the triple clamps is the easiest way to make a YZF fit a vertically challenged rider. :thumbsup:

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Nominally, a 80/100x21 is 27.3" tall ( (2x80mmx1.00)/25.4+21" )

A 90/100x20 is 27.1" ( (2x90mmx1.00)/25.4+20" ) for a net of .2" lower.

Nominally, a 110/90x19 is 26.8" tall ( (2x110x0.90)/25.4+19" )

A 110/100x18 is 26.66" tall ( (2X110x1.00)/25.4+18 ) for a net of .14" lower

Tires will vary, of course, but this is hardly worth the effort, IMHO.

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^^ I agree. I wouldn't do it.

Hey gray... what do you think of my wifes bike?

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Thanks. It was a lot of work getting her to feel comfortable on it. She went from an XR200 to a 250F, so it was a big change for her. I even had to put a shorter kick-starter on it because she had problems getting her leg up to kick it, which is another good mod for shorter riders. Its a Pro-Tec billet kick starter, it wasn't cheap, but it is 1.5 inches shorter.

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642MX, I hate to dive into someone elses thread, but I have to ask...how much race sag is in that bike of your wifes?? I am the same size and I can just touch tip toes and she is flat footing??? I did the seat and like as you stated?? Just wondering for help with mine.

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642MX, I hate to dive into someone elses thread, but I have to ask...how much race sag is in that bike of your wifes?? I am the same size and I can just touch tip toes and she is flat footing??? I did the seat and like as you stated?? Just wondering for help with mine.

It has almost 4 inches of sag. And if you look at the front of it (second picture), I raised the forks about 2 inches above the top triple clamp. I put Pro Taper bars on it and the universal adapters that raise the bar up 3/4" so the forks would not hit the handle bar.

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