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RENNER

hot start wont engage

11 posts in this topic

Has anyone messed around with their hot start lever. Mine does not engage and they cant look at it till tuesday. It's just a cable and a plunger?? (thats what it shows in the manual) Hopefully its not a pain in the ass to get access too.

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You can fix this yourself easy - unscrew the plastic nut on top of the carb - remove the plunger - dab a little white lithium grease and reinstall - fixed

water gets in and will cause this and worse if you do not fix....go ahead a buy the alum nut from Zipty - to replace the cheese plastic nut - it strips easy

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ALRIGHT, so i took off my seat, tank. got to the screw, unscrewed it... pulled. not budging. ofcourse, because its stuck! pulled harder. even tried a couple drops of dw40. still not budging. pulled harder. snap. ofcourse the end of the plunger broke. I used a pair of needle nose pliers and had to tap down on the plunger with a good forcefull tap to get that thing to unstick itself. well, now, i have to order a new plunger and spring, but that should not be a big deal at all. THE PROBLEM IS...... where the plunger goes in and out is not smooth and even when greaseing the old plunger you have to kind of force it to go in and out. i got to find a way to smooth that out without making it bigger! help?

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Use a brass rifle or pistol brush, and a good rust penetrant. You should probably wait until you get the replacement plunger to check it for being freed up. You need to remove all of the corrosion in the bore, or it will grow back.

When you're finished, lube it with a dab of marine grease.

To prevent it from reoccurring, you have 3 options:

1) never get the bike wet.

2) Pull the tank off after each ride, pull the plunger, spray out the bore with carb cleaner, and lube it again, or,

3) After each wash, or dip in the creek, and before you put it away, run the engine. Raise the speed above idle and open the hot start. Keep it open for a good 30 -40 seconds altogether to draw out any water that might be in the bore.

I use the third option, and I haven't lubed, or stuck, a hot start plunger in two years since I started it.

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Use a brass rifle or pistol brush, and a good rust penetrant. You should probably wait until you get the replacement plunger to check it for being freed up. You need to remove all of the corrosion in the bore, or it will grow back.

When you're finished, lube it with a dab of marine grease.

To prevent it from reoccurring, you have 3 options:

1) never get the bike wet.

2) Pull the tank off after each ride, pull the plunger, spray out the bore with carb cleaner, and lube it again, or,

3) After each wash, or dip in the creek, and before you put it away, run the engine. Raise the speed above idle and open the hot start. Keep it open for a good 30 -40 seconds altogether to draw out any water that might be in the bore.

I use the third option, and I haven't lubed, or stuck, a hot start plunger in two years since I started it.

all viable options that work. I also found that the ZipTy alum nut prevents and moisture from entering this.

Don't feel bad I did the sames thing on my 03....I had to replace cable as well as all the hardware ..... it is no bid deal...but I kicked myself for not letting penetration oil sit for any period of time, before yanking the cable...:thumbsup:

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ya.. I f*cked up. all i had was dw40 and i let that sit for like half an hour before i pulled and then i got frustrated. The sad thing is... the bike is 3 days old from the dealor floor. which is retarded because they should have checked that and if i have them do it, my not even broken in bike will sit there for a good week. I'm like f this im gonna just order new hardware and do it myself, plus I want to be familiar with this carb and I love gettin into everything

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For future reference, WD-40 is not a particularly good penetrating oil. The only product I can really recommend is GM Heat Valve Lubricant and Penetrating Spray. Work extremely well on rust, but it's apt to be expensive.

The trouble with this problem is that nothing that I know of really works that well on corroded aluminum, because the corrosion takes up so much space in the bore. Better than nothing, though.

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In the aviation industry we use a penterating oil called Aero-Koil. I have also used something called mouse milk. Both of these work fairly well on aluminum, but I don't know how easy it is to obtain them outside of the aviation world. Aero-Koil is a aerosol and mouse milk come in a squeezeable plastic bottle.

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Another great thing about this forum, you get people from all walks of life, many different occupations, that have access to products that I would not have even heard of otherwise. Oftentimes these items that are specific to a different industry can be applied as cures for motorcycle problems. Thanks Grayracer and King Air.

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