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Captaincautious7

Oilfilter Drain Bolt

10 posts in this topic

I've already noticed a little resistance when I screwed in the allen head drain bolt for the oil filter. I remember reading someone suggesting to remove top two allen head bolts first and rotate filter to prevent oil from draining through the third allen head hole. I did that and then removed the third bolt "drain bolt" to clean oil filter. When I replaced it I could feel resistance which I assume is some metal trash on threads. Can you flush this hole out with carb cleaner or will this contaminate the engine. Does the drain hole lead anywhere? What is the easiest way to consistantly do the oil change and eliminate this from happening?

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Yeah, I thought about that and am just wanting confirmation before I do something. Just don't want to compound the problem and would like to know what everybody else is doing on the Yamahas. This is my first Yamaha fourstroke and want to do oil changes as efficiently and hassle free as possible.

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I tried the same method last time I changed my oil, and had the same problem you did..

So....I took the bolt and would screw it in until I felt resistance, then I would remove it again and rinse it in a little bowl of gas and then wipe the threads clean with a rag.. I did this several times until it would screw in completely without any binding, then I reinstalled everything...

A little time consuming, but it seemed to do the trick...

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You can also chase the threads with a greased tap.

Rather than twist the cover to drain the filter well, just remove the top two bolts, and then remove the bottom one.

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When I remove mine I spray all 3 holes with carb cleaner and tilt the bike to the side to try and remove any leftover sludge.

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Can the flushing with the carb cleaner get inside crankcase and contaminate oil? Also could you combine Steve and Gray's ideas and maybe slightly grease bolt and screw it in and back out to pickup loose shavings on greased bolt? I appreciate yalls input on this. Thanks

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I just use a tap dipped in Bel-Ray grease to run in lighty, until I feel some slight resistance. Than I back out the Tap, wipe/flush it off of foreign material, and re-lube it and run it back in. I do this several times, and Viola! it now becomes easy to run the screw back in.

If I remember correctly, the tap size is M6 x 1.0

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I have took a thin disk cutter like on a dremmel to cut a thin slot in the first thread or two and it will clean as you go in with it.( it will chase the thread nicely).

Metric taps are different from one manufacture to anouther.

I would be afraid to retap unless you have to.

Loose threads inside is what might happen.

That bolt you have is matched and already and has been snugged up in that hole.

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Metric taps are different from one manufacture to anouther.
Not if it's from a manufacturer of quality tools, they aren't. The ISO specs are very definite, and a 6x1.0mm is exactly that.

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