?stripped left side drain bolt 2006 yz450f

i did the unthinkable and somehow stripped the left side drain hole . i am being told by yamaha service manager to just drain from right side . is he correct ?

if the left drain hole is stripped wouldnt the problem be putting the bolt back in? Get a heli-coil kit if this is the case

i got enough threads with a longer bolt to loctite it in

i did not want to chance getting shavings in motor . just wondering how much oil resides on that left side ?

i was afraid to get shavings in the motor with helicoil

. how much oil resides on that left side and can i get it out by just draining from the right side ?

The service manager is clearly unfamiliar with the product. It's a dry sump system, and the two drain bolts are for two separate oil volumes; the crankcase and the oil storage reservoir. After the bike has been recently run, 90% or more of all the oil is in the "tank", and draining only the right side will drain almost nothing from the engine.

The best repair is a Time Sert. Heli-Coils work also, but the time Sert is a better choice for a drain plug.

well i screwed up again then and took his advice . i loctited that bolt in with red loctite . what are my options now?

well i screwed up again then and took his advice . i loctited that bolt in with red loctite . what are my options now?

Socket, ratchet and a BFH (or breaker bar)

You also may be able to soften it up with heat, but there is a gasket nearby.

well i screwed up again then and took his advice . i loctited that bolt in with red loctite . what are my options now?

geez that is some shitty advice.......

Follow Greys advice....for this - it is the best offered. I have also done this and it is a permanent fix....:bonk:

"The best repair is a Time Sert. Heli-Coils work also, but the time Sert is a better choice for a drain plug."

i did the unthinkable and somehow stripped the left side drain hole.

Not to rub salt in the wound, but how did you strip the threads? Did you use a ratchet wrench to tighten it? I want to know so I don't make the same mistake.

I usually tighten finger tighten 8, 10 and 12mm bolts and then finish them with a nutdriver (screwdriver), unless a specific torque is required.

well i screwed up again then and took his advice . i loctited that bolt in with red loctite . what are my options now?
Red Loc-Tite is not like welding the bolt in place. You should be able to remove it fairly easily.
The service manager is clearly unfamiliar with the product. It's a dry sump system, and the two drain bolts are for two separate oil volumes; the crankcase and the oil storage reservoir. After the bike has been recently run, 90% or more of all the oil is in the "tank", and draining only the right side will drain almost nothing from the engine.

The best repair is a Time Sert. Heli-Coils work also, but the time Sert is a better choice for a drain plug.

This is the best advice. Heli-coils are okay but they eventually work themselves loose. Timeserts are best.

Use grease on the drill and tap to capture all the savings, preventing them from entering the engine. Even still, all the oil is screened and filtered before it enters the engine.

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