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boinoodle

Grabby Clutch Problem

15 posts in this topic

This is a tough one to explain. I have a 2000 426 with about 75 hours on it. I use Bel Ray EXL oil and change it every 6 hours.

I have excessive clutch grab. I have never run across this before and was wondering if I should look into farther or not.

What happens is this: No matter how slowly I let out the clutch and what ever throttle position I have it will grab and release and the bike surges forward and then it releases and surges ect.. Until I let it out enough to get the bike rolling. This happens in a very close range of releasing the clutch, I'm not trying to dump the clutch and stalling the bike. I did run a full synthetic oil for about 5 oil changes thinking the slippery synthetic would help, but I still had the same problems.

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No, you didn't do anything wrong. That's how the 2000 YZ426 clutches are. I have a 2000 as well and my clutch does the same thing. The only fix is to update your clutch to a 2001 YZ clutch. I just got used to my clutch being that way. I figure one day I will do the clutch upgrade.

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Replace your clutch plates with the following OEM Yamaha parts for the '01 426:

8) 5JG-16325-00-00 PLATE, CLUTCH 2

8) 3XK-16321-00-00 PLATE, FRICTION

1) 5JG-16321-00-00 PLATE, FRICTION

1) 5JG-16383-00-00 SPRING, CLUTCH BOSS

1) 5JG-16384-00-00 PLATE, SEAT

The last 3 parts in particular will cure this problem. A Hinson or GYT-R pressure plate is also helpful, as it is more rigid. Be sure to check the basket for significant wear in the form of notching at the fingers.

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Sweet. Thanks for the info. I'll just suck it up till I can do some upgrades. I already checked the basket and it's in good shape. I do know that the basket is a weeknes so I'm keeping an eye on it.

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This is a tough one to explain. I have a 2000 426 with about 75 hours on it. I use Bel Ray EXL oil and change it every 6 hours.

I have excessive clutch grab. I have never run across this before and was wondering if I should look into farther or not.

What happens is this: No matter how slowly I let out the clutch and what ever throttle position I have it will grab and release and the bike surges forward and then it releases and surges ect.. Until I let it out enough to get the bike rolling. This happens in a very close range of releasing the clutch, I'm not trying to dump the clutch and stalling the bike. I did run a full synthetic oil for about 5 oil changes thinking the slippery synthetic would help, but I still had the same problems.

Did you ever fix your clutch? I am having the same problem and debating the update.

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Do the update to the 2000 clutch. Gray has all the parts numbers there and it is easy to do. Every one I ride with and know with a 2000 did this easy fix and made things kosher.

Bill

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The part numbers on the friction plates are the same for both years. The (clutch boss, spring) and the (seat, plate) would be additional parts. The funny thing is that my owners manual shows that I should have these two parts but when I took it apart they were NOT there? What are these additional plates going to change?

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I just switched from Yamalube 4R to Shell Rotella T Synthetic (Blue Bottle) and noticed a HUGE difference in my clutch.

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This is a tough one to explain. I have a 2000 426 with about 75 hours on it. I use Bel Ray EXL oil and change it every 6 hours.

I have excessive clutch grab. I have never run across this before and was wondering if I should look into farther or not.

What happens is this: No matter how slowly I let out the clutch and what ever throttle position I have it will grab and release and the bike surges forward and then it releases and surges ect.. Until I let it out enough to get the bike rolling. This happens in a very close range of releasing the clutch, I'm not trying to dump the clutch and stalling the bike. I did run a full synthetic oil for about 5 oil changes thinking the slippery synthetic would help, but I still had the same problems.

This is a very common occurance with the YZ and WR clutches of the early 2000's. It stems from lack of oil getting between your drive plates. My '02 WR was HORRIBLE for chattery clutch grab. I ended up drilling about sixteen .125" dia holes on the outer clutch basket to allow oil to flow between the drive plates. I also removed the 3 thin steel rings that go into the clutch pack. This made a HUGE improvement on my clutch action. After the mods, I had a smooth predictable clutch engagement.

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the three steel rings. Are you talking about the parts that go first into the clutch boss before the first friction plate? I'm planning to try synthetic oil before any mods. Also did you drill by hand or with a press?

thanks for the input

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You can drill by hand, but only if your current boss has no holes in it. Locate the holes at the bottom of the splines used for the clutch plates. Drill three evenly spaced holes one spline between each of the six spring posts, for a total of 18, to duplicate the later boss.

The 3 rings seem to be the very parts you need to add, not remove, from the clutch. If you have these parts, be sure they are installed correctly, that your clutch plates are themselves in good condition, and that neither the basket or boss is significantly notched.

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There are already holes in the boss, thanks. So if I put in the new parts do I remove a friction plate. Also I'm not sure if the guy i bought the bike from put in a heavy duty clutch. I can't tell if the friction plate are stock or not? Is there a way ti tell? The pads have 3mm of meat on them.

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To do the '01 upgrade, the bottom friction plate is replaced with one ( 5JG-16321-00-00 ) that clears the spring and spring seat ring.

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thanks, again. Sorry, to make you repeat this info. What about the ball bearing addition?

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Heres my whole experiences when I bought my new '02 WR250F. Clutch issues and finding nuetral was a big issue back in '02:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22682&page=2&highlight=clutch

bottom line I sold my WR in '05 with the original clutch, and ZERO issues to speak of after removing the 3 steel rings....

Try ditching the steel rings, you have nothing to loose, if you don't see any improvement put them back in, no big deal.

Lastly I forgot to mention, if your clutch was previously over heated it's possible you have a warped steel plate(s). This will also cause a jumpy clutch engagement... Good luck

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