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TyeeHusky

Grey wire pulled vs not pulled

23 posts in this topic

Well I just pulled the grey wire. It was my last mod as I wanted to do one at a time to see any change.

All I did was ride around on the street so not an official test but found the following.

Did not notice any change in power. Did notice a tendancy to die if I wicked the throttle off idle in nuetral. Starting was when warm was a little harder.

Bike never died off idle before pulling grey wire or had problems starting.

I need to go out for a real ride but was wondering if anyone else noticed this. I am thinking of hooking it back up and testing again since it is an easy mod. Maybe it is just the fuel screw needing adjustment.

Mods done:

AIS removed

throttle stop

Exhaust inner baffle removed

Airbox uncorked

MSR fuel screw

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There are alot of different opinions on the grey wire thing. I wired in a toggle switch so I can have both the YZ timing, and the WR timing. For the type of riding I do, the WR timing is much better, so I rarely flip the switch. I have noticed mine doesn't run nearly as smooth when I switch to YZ timing (grey wire NOT connected) Hope this helps--:applause:

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Ok this is my Opinion:-

bike has been dyno'ed and all jetting if spot on etc etc, on the dyno nothing showed up, but we expected that.

Grey Wire out: felt a tad aggressive on throttle, so on the track it was great, but on tight wood areas the bike runs away a little

Grey wire in: much smooth power delivery, really good on tight woods and more technical stuff, but you loose the out and out aggression on the straights of full throttle stuff..

I chose to stay with the wire in... as the power delivery is better for my style of riding and technical stuff...but if that changes I'll just pop it out...

BUT.. there is defo a change in the bike when the wire is out....(WR450 2007)

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Where exactly is it on the 07 ?? Next to the air box? just swaped over from the honda and have done all the mods except this one

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It is behind the left side number plate. In the six pin connection. Just push it out with a small screw driver.

I was suprised my bike was harder to start and would die when hitting the throttle off idle so I put the grey wire back in. Runs great but I am coming off a YZ250 so want the extra hit. Anyone else had the same problem when unhooking the grey wire.

Maybe I need to speed the idle up. Noticed it idled faster with grey wire hooked up.

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Excellent thread.

This is the question a lot of people have been asking.

Cheers

Looks

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Yeah I would be interested in seeing the difference if any in tight stuff. I did all the mods at once so I wasn't able to see anything. P{lus I couldn't wait for tons of throttle and power.

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There are alot of different opinions on the grey wire thing. I wired in a toggle switch so I can have both the YZ timing, and the WR timing. For the type of riding I do, the WR timing is much better, so I rarely flip the switch. I have noticed mine doesn't run nearly as smooth when I switch to YZ timing (grey wire NOT connected) Hope this helps--:applause:

A bunch of people have PM'ed me to ask how I did the switch. The grey wire goes under the tank to the CDI. The grey wire was re-routed to an on/off toggle switch ($5 @ Napa) which is mounted to the right side of the handlebars, then back to the CDI. The connections were soldered for durability. Works great, but one thing to remember, if you wire in a switch, the bike needs to be OFF when you switch it. You can't change it while it's running. Took me a long time to figure that one out!! I'll post a pic tomorrow-

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Another thing- If you cut the grey wire, it changes the timing map to YZ timing, which is good for going fast; You get more top end power. If you're like me and like to ride slow trails, the WR timing is MUCH better. The grey wire basically retards the timing, which gives you a smoother, more powerful bottom end. Try a switch, you'll notice the difference.

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so let me get this straight, from the 6 prong plug where the grey wire is connected, you run a wire to a switch on the handlebars, then from the switch to the CDI box that is mounted to the side of the frame???

So, all that is needed to do this is some wire and a switch, just those 2 parts???

I can't wait to try this.

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I tried installing a switch.

I plugged in the grey wire

I cut the grey wire and ran a wire from the connector under the tank to one end of the switch.

I then ran another wire from the grey wire running from the CDI to the other end of the switch.

I fired it up and tried it around a loop. NO difference

I switched it in the other direction while the power was turned off and went around the same loop. NO difference.

I don't know what I'm doing wrong, was should it feel like with each timing map????????

I tried using a test light on the wiring from the CDI and from the wiring harness where the grey wire is pluged in and get nothing. It seems like there should be current coming from there when the bike is runnung, and I tried it switched both ways. I soldered all the connections and made sure everything was right. I am baffeled

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My grey wire is cut, but I've thought about installing a switch just to experiment with it. With some of these comments, I'd like to see if it makes a difference in the tight stuff.

I've had no problems at all with the bike running though... runs great everytime!

~Dave

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I'll post a pic tomorrow-

Hey man I'm still waitin' for that pic. :applause: I also had some questions because I'm not seeing anything different. It is an awesome idea, and I would love to see if it really is helpful. I hope you please post a reply soon, I'm dying to find out how this works:busted: :lol::eek:

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I have done the free mods on my 07 wr 450, Shortened throttle screw, removed air box restrictions, removed small muffler baffle, and the grey wire mod. Iam very pleased with the way it runs, but for the type of riding I do I rewired the grey wire back in. It seems to make the engine a little more mellow when I first crack the throtle in the tight stuff. It may just seem that way but I have tried it both ways a few times and just works better for me if it is still hooked up.

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Hey man I'm still waitin' for that pic. :bonk: I also had some questions because I'm not seeing anything different. It is an awesome idea, and I would love to see if it really is helpful. I hope you please post a reply soon, I'm dying to find out how this works:busted: :D:naughty:

Sorry, been real busy at work. I read your post about how your switch doesn't work. I basically did the same thing you did, and I do notice a difference in low end and top end. Smoother low end with switch on WR, and snappier top end with YZ. I did mine after a buddy did his first and told me how to do it. I'll get that pic and post it as soon as I can.

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Yeah the weird thing is that I tried using a tester to see if there was any current running through it (wire from cdi) and the test light didn't light.

If the cdi wasn't conducting anything, wouldn't the bike not really run??? Because mine rund fine so I can't figure out why I wouldn't see a difference.

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Yeah the weird thing is that I tried using a tester to see if there was any current running through it (wire from cdi) and the test light didn't light.

If the cdi wasn't conducting anything, wouldn't the bike not really run??? Because mine rund fine so I can't figure out why I wouldn't see a difference.

I think it is an earth, hence no current:thumbsup:

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I think it is an earth, hence no current:thumbsup:

:bonk: I don't understand what you mean by an "earth". Or is it just a joke

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:bonk: I don't understand what you mean by an "earth". Or is it just a joke

This thread is hilarious!

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