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Bodhisattva

Mods planned for my XR650L....advice please.

20 posts in this topic

Hi guys,

Here is what is planned for the big L in the next month, its bone stock right now.

Exhaust. ...supertrapp, white bros, ect....which one??? and should I get just the muffler or the complete system?

I want to also get the smog block off kit for my CA model bike

I want to get a magnetic drain plug(s)

Would the oil temp dipstick be a good investment?

Im thinking of a aluminum oil filter , yes or no?

I will also be doing the daves mods and snorkle removal and re-jet and a uni filter.

So, exhaust, daves mods, snorkel removal, uni filter, magnetic drain plugs, oil filler temp gauge, alum. oil filter?, smog block kit.

Will those mods be a good start, enough to wake my beast up some??

Is there a pictorial to the daves mods showing where to drill the slide and add the washers?????? thanks.

On a side note....the rear break light/licence plate assembly is HUGE ive seen smaller ones where can I find these things?

A lot of questions but help would be greatly appritiated!!!!!!!!!!! thanks guys.

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Thats basically what I did on a new 07 and it made a huge difference. Also going down 1 tooth on the front sprocket makes a big difference too especially if you plan on doing dirt. 2 teeth down on the front is great for the big hills. I went to cycle geat and purchase a small rectangular tail light that works great. cost all of $13 i think.

Good Luck

Eric

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I think you are on the right track with what you want to do with your bike. I just bought an 07 in Oct 06 and did the following durring the winter months, first I bought a smog kit block off kit and took all smog crap off. I put a uni filter on it and desnorkled and vented the air box, I put on an edelbrock carb a FMF Q2 muffler and a Clarke 4.7 gallon fuel tank. I also did not care for the stock handle bars and went with Protapers and 8mm risers because of my hight. I felt like I was going to endo whenI stood up on the bike. I am in the process of dialing in the carb for optimal performance. I wil tell ou that when you are done you will be amazed at how much better it runs. The only other thing I would recommend is a skid plate if you are going to ride off road at all. Have fun with your scooter. OZ

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For details on daves mods go to

http://www.4strokes.com/tech/honda/xr650lcarbmods/

Skip the magnetic drain plug, you can have problems with the magnet coming off the plug, also these tend to be aluminum, and you can have thread issues.

Get the xrs only oil temp dipstick, I believe its worth the money!

In my opinion the stainless steel xrs only full exhaust (header and silencer) is the best designed and highest quality exhaust you can get.

Skip the high dollar oil filter too, stick with the Honda paper filters. Two reasons, 1 how clean can you clean a reusable filter? 2 if you have an oiling issue (clogged filter, whatever) the stock filter will crush and you will still get oil pressure, with the reusable you will starve the engine of oil and seize before you know it.

Save your money for things like the www.rswracing.com billet triple clamp, some pro taper, or renthal fatbars, also the rsw racing fork brace is a step in the right direction.

If your mostly offroad the 14/48 gear choice and quality o-ring chain make the world of difference. And tires suited to your terrain, dunlop 606, Pirelli mt21's, Teraflex :applause:

On the tail light stay away from the acerbis stuff their electrically challenged.

some sites for you to check out.

www.bajadesigns.com

www.xrsonly.com

www.lukesracing.com

www.barnumspro.com

Let us know what you do and how it works out.

Also I preferred the K&N air filter over the UNI in this particular bike, though all my others are using the UNI.

The xrs only billet rack is a great addition, tough and trick, somewhere to tie down whatever you want to carry. IMS or Clarke 4 gallon tank. The list goes on and on.:eek:

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I got the mods your thinking about Xrs Only header with WB e-series, Edelbrock carb, K&N filter, air box opened up, Hotcam, JE 10.5-1 100mm Xr600r piston (Which makes the compression actually about 9.5-1 great for cheap gas), 14-48 gearing, Racetech .46 fork springs, Scotts steering stabilizer, SRC fork brace and a Trailtech Vapor with Bajadesigns headlight. The stabilizer, fork brace and fork springs where the best investment well after the Dave basic mods.

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I would start with the Daves mods then a bigger gas tank. the rest you can put to gether as you have the money. If you do get the pipe go with the XRs only stainless full system. You don't want those rivited cans on there. Good luck.

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I like the Yoshimura Comp can, if noise is not an issue for you. It was listed for the XR 600, but bolted right up. I use mine for street/dirt roads, with 15/48 sprockets. Maier makes a good taillight, that's not too expensive. I found that a braided steel front brake line works very good, too. K&N filter, de-snorkled box, and I made my own smog blockoffs. Aluminum bars seem to dampen vibration better than the stock ones.

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Thank you all for the replies.

So skip the magnetic drain plugs?

So k&n over uni?

The xr system is backordered untill june I belive, I want to get soming soon.

Is there a write up or something on the airbox snorkle removal? do they need to be drilled out?

I am thinking about getting a wind screen, as I do more on road then off with my bike, but do you guys think switching to a full face on road type helmet would be enough, Right now I use my motocross helmet with the visor and I think that creates alot of wind risistance on long 70mph rides? what helmet do you guys use on road?

Thanks.

edit...Also, what is the signifigance(sp) of grinding off the tab on the needle? and the plastic case surrounding it on the daves mods??? thanks

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Wait for the XRs only system, if you don't and you someday run into someone that does have one,you will kick your self. Don't throw your money a way on some thing put together with rivits

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Is the XR system the only one without rivits?

What about fmf , white bros, supertrapps....those were others I was looking at.

I read a few people said dont do the header untill cam and piston???

Anyone that can link me to a snorkle removal? thanks.

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The Supertrapp , smog kit, snorkle removal, Uni filter, and either Dave's Mods or changing to a pumper carb will get yours breathing better, running cooler, starting better, eliminate popping on deceleration, and add a few ponies as well.

I chose the edlebrock because of ease of tuning. I decided on the Supertrapp exhaust add-on because the Edelbrock costs so much so I saved on the exhaust. You need the air intake (snorkle) opened up with a better flowing air filter and the smog stuff remolved to get everything breathing freely both in and out.

I chose the Motoman break in technique and am happy.

All else is personal choice on how your bike fits and how you ride

QSII

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Snorkle removal, drill the two rivets out that fasten it in place in the top of the air box and remove (its best to place a rag over the air filter to catch shavings when you drill then clean filter and housing to be certain)

On rivets, FMF = riveted, supertrapp = riveted, though these silencers are servicable they are assembled with rivets which tend to leak and hamper a total rebuild when needed. Its just a short cut in the assembly process, bolts need threads and a lot of manufacturers choose to bypass the expense of a piece of metal thick enough to tapp or nuts welded to the structure, and instead save money by riveting the cans to the mid pipe assembly.

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Hi rebelventurer,

Having switched just the silencer part of my exhaust , is there any advantage to replacing the whole exhaust system. I am thinking down the road after I put a few thousand on to go with a hotter cam. Would a full exhaust then be more beneficial? Thanks.

CSII

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Snorkle removal, drill the two rivets out that fasten it in place in the top of the air box and remove (its best to place a rag over the air filter to catch shavings when you drill then clean filter and housing to be certain)

On rivets, FMF = riveted, supertrapp = riveted, though these silencers are servicable they are assembled with rivets which tend to leak and hamper a total rebuild when needed. Its just a short cut in the assembly process, bolts need threads and a lot of manufacturers choose to bypass the expense of a piece of metal thick enough to tapp or nuts welded to the structure, and instead save money by riveting the cans to the mid pipe assembly.

Thanks Rebel.

Capsil, if you are going to do a cam and other internal mods down the road, do the full exhuast now, probably cheaper to buy together.

You would be better off making your own thread so more people see it :applause:

So what would you guys say is the cheapest place to buy stuff from, tires and such?

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