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jodyg

edelbrock on the xr650r

10 posts in this topic

Can someone please help me, i have just put a edelbrock quicksilver carb on my xr650r, and it just isn't running right, its not settling at idle (revving too high), it has lost power (compared to my standard carb), it has flat spots, to sum it up, it just isn,t running right at all, i have a k&n filter, open race exhaust tip, but i havn't opened the side panel, can anyone offer me some advise on how to get my pig running right again, oh i ride at sea level, please, please help me, thank you in advance for ANY help i recieve. i have tried altering the needle with the screw on the top but it still is revving too high at idle without settling, my frustration is getting worse and worse, can someone put me out my misery. :applause:

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I had problems with the slide sticking on an older Edelbrock that I had on an XR628. The slide return spring had weakened and was allowing the slide to hang up in the slide bore and not return normally to idle position. Edelbrock provided me with a redesigned slide and spring which cured the problem. Pull the carb, disassemble it and check out the components for wear/damage. Also make sure that the throttle cable assembly is adjusted properly and not binding.

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Have you tried adjusting the idle down with the throttle stop screw? On mine it's a 6" cable with with a black nob on the end and that's how you set idle speed.

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hi guys, thanks for your help, i now have another problem, i striped it down today and found that the adjuster that sits on the needle was not on the thread, i put it back on and routed all cables correctly and checked intake manifold, set the idle adjuster and now she starts well goes ok but not as good as original, and i am getting alot of popping on deceleration, i am running on a #19e needle (no spares, wife through them away), and 14 clicks in from totaly lean, any more help would be great, thanks for all your help, it is appreciated.,

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The 19E needle should be just fine. Turn the adjuster knob to the rich side (clockwise) until the popping on deceleration stops, you will be in the ballpark

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hi guys, thanks for your help, i now have another problem, i striped it down today and found that the adjuster that sits on the needle was not on the thread, i put it back on and routed all cables correctly and checked intake manifold, set the idle adjuster and now she starts well goes ok but not as good as original, and i am getting alot of popping on deceleration, i am running on a #19e needle (no spares, wife through them away), and 14 clicks in from totaly lean, any more help would be great, thanks for all your help, it is appreciated.,

You said 14 clicks from totally lean? "in" is clockwise. You should be setting your needle height from all the way "in which is the 'richest' setting and then going 'out' being leaner. There are I believe 30 total clicks. If you have gone "in" from the full 30 clicks out, then you are currently16 clicks out from full rich at this point. That may be too lean for a full exhaust and K&N. Regardless of the other things you found, it seems you were even leaner before. Being real lean is one cause and more commonly the actual cause of the hanging revs after you twist the throttle, provided the idle screw is adjusted properly and the cables are not binding.

The problem of the inner slide spring weakness is an old problem that should most likely not be associated with the current units, :applause: . The spring was updated some time ago.

The K&N breaths quite bit more than foam filters. I have used a K&N myself and it can require a bit richer setting. Especially once you puts holes in the side cover, which I know you haven't done yet.

You have to pay attention to tuning/setting the fuel pump screw to your particular bike also. It makes a good difference when it is set right. It may require less fuel pump than the start setting of 1.5 turns out. Your fuel may partly determine it's setting besides your needle adjustment. The fuel pump screw only needs to be set enough to eliminate the stumble when you twist the throttle open fast. Any more than that and it will effect your click adjustment and therfore the low to mid response.

As with anything, there is a learning curve. Once you get the Edelbrock dialed in, it will provide great initial response and power.

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hi guys, thanks for your help, i now have another problem, i striped it down today and found that the adjuster that sits on the needle was not on the thread, i put it back on and routed all cables correctly and checked intake manifold, set the idle adjuster and now she starts well goes ok but not as good as original, and i am getting alot of popping on deceleration, i am running on a #19e needle (no spares, wife through them away), and 14 clicks in from totaly lean, any more help would be great, thanks for all your help, it is appreciated.,

The Edelbrock manual refers to clicks "out from rich". In other words as stated by Thumpage, full-in (clockwise) is full-rich. Each click is 1/4 turn and most examples of this model carb have around 32, 1/4-turn clicks across the full range of adjustment.

So, the manual refers to "clicks out from full-rich". So going forward, let's refer to "clicks-out", so we can stay apples-to-apples in this trouble-shooting. Assuming you have about 32 clicks across your entire adjustment range, you are running about 18 clicks "out" right now.

My R has a full Pro Circuit T-4 system, Uni-Filter , and side-panel vents. My Edelbrock is currently running the #19 needle and 18 clicks out. I live and ride at about 1200' elevation. My R is running beautiously, a rip-snorting beast. Some slight popping on de-cel, but that's what is recommended.

Some things to check:

1. I would strongly suggest you check your "clicks-out" and let us know what that is (vs "clicks-in). You should be at about 18 clicks-out, which will have you in the ballpark to do further fine-tuning.

2. When I installed my Edelbrock I did not like the way my throttle tube came from the factory, it had a bit of notchiness in the action so I found the imperfections and filed and smoothed them out until it felt totally smooth when twisted.

3. With the bike warm and idling, turn the handlebars lock-to-lock and see if the rpm varies. Obviously if you get ANY variation in rpm, your cable routing is causing a problem and needs to be sorted out before any further fine-tuning.

Take heart, once you get it dialled-in you will not stop grinning. Be patient, you will be rewarded.

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'Internalcombustion' is correct on the total click adjustment range being 32 clicks. I was thinking 30 but 32is in fact correct. His explanation was clearer than mine also, :applause:.

You might have to go slightly richer than his setting because of the K&N, [even if you don't have holes in the sidecover] and being close to sea level. Maybe, maybe not. :lol:

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