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kyle450rider

couple of pics and questions?

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I have my suspension off the bike and had time to jet today.Slapped in a 170 main and 48 pilot.Thanks to my fellow TT'rs for the jetting tips.I have a good question about rear wheel alignment.I have both blocks on the fifth mark from the back and the rear tire and wheel look crooked as hell when i removed the subframe and exhaust. Guess i didnt notice when they were on the bike.What are some good methods to align the rear wheel without the blocks.Also i can say that the yamaha axle blocks are cheaply made.They dont have a tight fit on the swingarm like some other models.I think i'm going to order some pro circuit axle blocks to see if they fit better and hopefully i can get the rear wheel lined up.One more question.Since i rejetted with a stock exhaust do you carb guys think i'll be alright with a full system from MRD? I would like to just be able to tune it with the fuel screw after this.I included some pics of the rear tire.Thank you for any and all help.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/kyle450rider/131125690207_0_ALB.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/kyle450rider/421125690207_0_ALB.jpg

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ive found that the marks on the axle blocks arent worth a crap. I measure with a measuring tape from the cut out in the swingarm (where the bolt for the adjusters threads in) to the front of the axle block. That way you can get it perfectly straight. Hope this helps :applause:

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Read:

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4244955#post4244955

Note that rear wheel alignment is important to an '06+ YZF since the chain will whip laterally on decel if misaligned and hit the frame at the sub frame mount.

Thanks for the tips guys!I looked for any chain marks on the frame and found none that i can see.I'm going to try to use a tape measure when i get the suspension back.:applause:

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I've tried to tape measure thing before but it seems very unscientific to me as it's hard to measure exactly the same on both sides. I'm sure I'm getting it within a mm or 2 but I'd think that wouldn't be much more precise then the blocks. Any suggestions?

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Yes, I had read that link before posting. I was just hoping for a little more detail since as I mentioned, I think I'm getting it within a mm or 2 but since there isn't a mark on the swingarm bolt wasn't sure if there was something different to try.

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I'm not sure how it can get more detailed. Using a straight edge off of the rear sprocket, you move the adjusters until the rear sprocket exactly points to the front sprocket, regardless of the marks on the swing arm. That's as precise as you can get. If, when you're done, the marks don't agree, change them or note the discrepancy for future reference.

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I have my suspension off the bike and had time to jet today.Slapped in a 170 main and 48 pilot.Thanks to my fellow TT'rs for the jetting tips.I have a good question about rear wheel alignment.I have both blocks on the fifth mark from the back and the rear tire and wheel look crooked as hell when i removed the subframe and exhaust. Guess i didnt notice when they were on the bike.What are some good methods to align the rear wheel without the blocks.Also i can say that the yamaha axle blocks are cheaply made.They dont have a tight fit on the swingarm like some other models.I think i'm going to order some pro circuit axle blocks to see if they fit better and hopefully i can get the rear wheel lined up.One more question.Since i rejetted with a stock exhaust do you carb guys think i'll be alright with a full system from MRD? I would like to just be able to tune it with the fuel screw after this.I included some pics of the rear tire.Thank you for any and all help.

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/kyle450rider/131125690207_0_ALB.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g205/kyle450rider/421125690207_0_ALB.jpg

You should be just fine with that jetting. I run a 45/170 and thought the throttle responce was great, then I installed my MRD full system and the throttle responce improved:eek: :lol: I didn't know it could get better from what it was.:applause:

With the wheel allignment, just take your time and recheck everthing. Once you think you have it, spin the wheel slowly and check the slack in the chain, at different points in the revolution.

Also something I've been thinking about trying is using a dial caliber from the rear of the swingarm to some point on the axle.

:applause:

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You should be just fine with that jetting. I run a 45/170 and thought the throttle responce was great, then I installed my MRD full system and the throttle responce improved:eek: :lol: I didn't know it could get better from what it was.:applause:

With the wheel allignment, just take your time and recheck everthing. Once you think you have it, spin the wheel slowly and check the slack in the chain, at different points in the revolution.

Also something I've been thinking about trying is using a dial caliber from the rear of the swingarm to some point on the axle.

:applause:

Thanks for the help and the response.I cant wait to get my MRD ordered.Here in ks its starting to feel like spring and thats good riding weather.Ranger,i have a question for you.How much louder is the MRD than the stocker?

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Thanks for the help and the response.I cant wait to get my MRD ordered.Here in ks its starting to feel like spring and thats good riding weather.Ranger,i have a question for you.How much louder is the MRD than the stocker?

It's noticeably louder then stock but not obnoxious. It has a real deep throaty sound which to me sounds much better than stock! I went ahead and got the quiet insert and spark arrester since it was only like $20 more but haven't tried it yet as it sounds soooooo good without it and there is no need down here in Mexico. You will be stoked on your MRD!

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I don't know about the 06/07 blocks. On mine they areNOT the same on both sides. One has fewer notches than the other. The left side that the axle butts against, has two less marks than the right. You have to count back to front.

It took me an hour to figure this out one evening.

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Buy the pro circuit blocks like i did and forget about it, my wheels is straight and chain slack is easy to get on the money. Anyone know of a clear plastic skidplate which covers the front of the motor, was in dirtrider forgot the name.

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I was wondering about aftermarket blocks.....Is it that the yamaha blocks are cheap and inaccurate compared to aftermarket ones? As much technology as goes into these bikes I'd think that axle blocks would be easy to get right.

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I feel your pain about the blocks, 1 block has more hash marks than the other. I will try to explain what I do, which has been working well. I have tried all the other methods, but it is quite a bit of additional work in my opinion.

Once you think you have adjusted the chain to where you want it, put a round socket extension bar (or screwdriver, whatever) you have in the sprocket, turn the rear wheel backwards to tighten up the slack all the way to the axle blocks, then lightly tighten the axle nut.

Now you are at the alignment stage. Now look at the space on the inner edge of the swingarm (the oval hole the axle and seal covers snug up against) in relationship to the edge of the axle block on both sides.

I then take my 10 mm wrench and slide the open end side in the space, and see how much it has "swallowed" the tip of the wrench. Do this on both sides and you will quickly see how much one side is off from the other. Now adjust each side until the same amount of the tip of the wrench has been "swallowed". Once you get both sides "swallowing" the wrench at the same point, you're good to go.

Now look at your chain again and make sure it still has enough slack. If not, back off the chain adjuster bolts on both side one quarter turn each side.

Tighten it up again and re-check. Contiue the above process until you are satisfied.

If you're not sure about how to perfom the adjustment I just wrote, pm me with your contact info, I would be glad to help further.

After I finally figured out a good way to adjust the chain and keep the rear aligned....I just ordered new blocks :applause:

Sharky

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How do you know it isn't straight?

I dont know for sure grey.By looking at the rear wheel i would bet money that its not straight.

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I feel your pain about the blocks, 1 block has more hash marks than the other. I will try to explain what I do, which has been working well. I have tried all the other methods, but it is quite a bit of additional work in my opinion.

Once you think you have adjusted the chain to where you want it, put a round socket extension bar (or screwdriver, whatever) you have in the sprocket, turn the rear wheel backwards to tighten up the slack all the way to the axle blocks, then lightly tighten the axle nut.

Now you are at the alignment stage. Now look at the space on the inner edge of the swingarm (the oval hole the axle and seal covers snug up against) in relationship to the edge of the axle block on both sides.

I then take my 10 mm wrench and slide the open end side in the space, and see how much it has "swallowed" the tip of the wrench. Do this on both sides and you will quickly see how much one side is off from the other. Now adjust each side until the same amount of the tip of the wrench has been "swallowed". Once you get both sides "swallowing" the wrench at the same point, you're good to go.

Now look at your chain again and make sure it still has enough slack. If not, back off the chain adjuster bolts on both side one quarter turn each side.

Tighten it up again and re-check. Contiue the above process until you are satisfied.

If you're not sure about how to perfom the adjustment I just wrote, pm me with your contact info, I would be glad to help further.

After I finally figured out a good way to adjust the chain and keep the rear aligned....I just ordered new blocks :applause:

Sharky

Thanks for the info!I think i'm going to order some pro circuit blocks today or tomorrow.I just hope that they fit tight in the swingarm.The stockers will actually twist a little when you get everything tight.

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I dont know for sure grey.By looking at the rear wheel i would bet money that its not straight.
For one thing, the rear fender is wider and shaped differently on one side than the other, which will throw the look off.

The rear wheel is aligned when the rear sprocket points DIRECTLY at the front sprocket. This is the most important thing to accomplish in aligning the rear, and the straight edge method I laid out is the most accurate way of getting there. By that method, an error of .5mm at the axle block will show up as 2mm or more at the front sprocket, so you can find the smallest discrepancy.

The other thing is that if you were to remove your forks and hold the frame up with a tube running through the steering head, the rear tire should be pointing right at that tube. If your wheel is still centered correct over the hub, and the frame is straight, it will be.

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