My new '07 TE510 !!!

[AJSB]

I'm making the final mods to my brand new 07 TE510 :ride:

I have the plate and insurance, removed blinkers (actually never installed them), 15/48 f.r. (Renthal) (i may end up to use 16/48 but only after break in), supplied racing needle, removed throttle stop, enabled the AP, racing silencer (which replaces that monster that comes with Euro3 bikes), racing wiring, removed Euro3 crap, replaced rubber connection between carb and cylinder by the "racing" one, Galfer wave float disks, RK XW-ring fluo red chain, TC chain guide, Renthal red fatbar (Suzuki bend...its +/- same bend as standard TE 7/8 bar !!!) with TC 28.6 bar adapters, Polisport Sharp black handguards, a CEV lights/horn/kill switch (from KTM) (the CEV switch was rewired internally so that the kill contact now works as a pass light) , OEM Euro3 electric fan with its OEM relay, HEITO thermal switch placed in the place of the coolant drain bolt (i installed the 80C version but i may try to install the 70C version), i also replaced the rear fender by one of the TC, put a number plate holder w/leds from HP Racing, a single rear mirror (from HP Racing) and replaced both "u-bolts" from the clutch and brake levers and put the ones from the TC; i made an extra wiring on the right side of frame to make it possible to still have hi/low/presence beams or switch them off, to have stop light, horn, and electric fan (racing wiring doesn't have that stuff and lights are allways on in low bean...the horn and fan are now protected now by its own fuse...some of the extra wiring is in right side of frame (i didn't put any of th xtra wiring on the left side)...OEM Euro3 wiring weight a lot, had no dual ignition curve,etc. and made tank removal/installation hard and it seemed also to make too hard remove/reinstall head cover thats why i used the racing wiring...now with wirings in both sides installation/removal of both are perfect, it still weights a bit less and have all functions that i wanted.

I still need to install/make rad guards and put filters in carb lines...

Was to make a video but the camera that i have is to install in bike so o viewfinder...gonna be funny try to use it for the video

I started bike for 1st time (i used the ES) yesterday...only started after 7-8 tries...after 3 times on , it backfired very loud and with a tone that i never heard a bike do (i was inside a closed ex-garage...maybe that explain the tone)...i wonder if i damage anything...

Anyway, it finally started and worked very well (and since then, it never again backfired)...i warmed up it for 4-5 minutes and killed engine (i guess that air temp was 10C or less)

I starded again, with engine warmed and barely touched the button and it just started ... now at night i made new heat cycle with engine completly cold and again starded very easely

BTW, they also suggested to replace the idle jet in the TE510 for a smaller one but i didn't do it but bike seems working very well at idle (maybe because of air temp and/or because of the low altitude of where in live)...

BTW, i forgot to ask the importer and don't see on the manuals...whats the correct idle speed ?

TIA,

AJSB

[Huskies4Life]

We need pictures:bonk:

[smokemetallic]

I second the need for pics. Also would like to know the part #'s on the fan and relay. Also what bend of suzuki bars did you get? Thanks!

[Rusty Rocket]

How many of the mods you mention are included with the bike for retail price? like the exhaust mod and the acc pump?

[AJSB]

Renthal Fatbars PN is 672-01-RD (RD is for Red color)...it really mimics very well the OEM TE 7/8 handlebar bend.

Sometime ago i posted a thread with the racing part numbers...

Carb needle, main jets, slow jets, throttle stop replacement are all included with bike in a plastic bag outside box that has the manuals,etc...AP mod was simply removing the metal part to enable it...

European bikes are all now Euro3 and all come with the electric fan, respective support and relay...they also come with a temperature sensor but that sensor only works with Euro3 wiring and Euro3 blackbox...with racing wiring doesn't work (there isn't even a plug on that wiring to that sensor) so i had to find a thermal switch instead.

I gonna try to discover part numbers for relay, electric fan (its made by Spal) and electric fan support (untill some weeks, those PNs wasn't available in the online ordering system even when checking the Euro3 version !)...thermal switch is made by a French company and they only sell a minimum of 5 units of each temp range...i bought both 70C and 80C versions (offered 2 70C to Mike but i never knew if he got time to install them) and i need to do some testing to decide if i gonna use the 70C version or 80C version...

HVA doesn't charge too much for the silencer...the Euro3 silencer is really a pig because is labyrinth type, has a catalytic converter and is made in SS ...the racing silencer seems similar to USA model at least from the outside.

I made a video of the bike but quality isn't very good...gonna try to do a better one or take some pics to publish this weekend.

I just installed a "dual ignition" switch...HVA Portuguese importer didn't had the switch or even it's price but informed me that it only needs to be an On/Off switch that stays in the chosen position and has two wires...so i used a universal on/off switch similar to a model used by Honda IIRC.

I'm almost sure that i gonna replace the digital panel..."too big" and "heavy"...but the main problem is that the racing wiring (needed for access to the dual ignition access, besides other things) doesn't let the digital panel warning lights work like the standard wiring does because it doesn't have the connections and European laws demand a lights_on and high_beam warning light (the lights_on warning light is hardwired always_on with racing wiring with OEM panel).

I gonna buy the Vapor or a German model extremely light and small (32 grams !!!)...gonna remove also the steel digital panel holder and make one in alu and put two warning lights...

So no matter i had to put an extra sensor and extra wiring to complement the racing wiring, i should manage to still shave at least 3.4 Kg (~7.5 Lbs !) from the '07 Euro3 TE510...and thats before i remove KS

[AJSB]

OK, here are the references:

Electric fan: 8000 A7715

E.F. Holder: 8000 A7716

Screw: 60N1 01030 (you will need 4 of these)

Screw: 8H00 67545

Nut: 8000 40717 (you will need 4 of these)

E.F. Relay: 8000 A6749

Relay is mounted in front of right radiator using the upper rad mounting hole.

I forgot to also check (but i will) the PN of the Euro3 CDI (which has the 2 ignition curves) so you can check if USA/non_Euro3 models use same CDI or not...

If you want i can give you the contact of the French thermal switch but they only sell to you a minimum of 5 units...maybe i can resell them to anyone that its interested (!?)...

Today i rode my TE510 for the 1st time, only 12 minutes...bike very comfortable, its noticeable that its bit bigger than my previous bikes but i felt confident with it right away...the handlebar seems a bit tall (the fatbar is same size/bend than OEM handlebar and its height is the same), i was at 1st thinking to remove the two shims to lower it but i changed my mind...this bike will be a blast to ride with me up on it as opposite to my previous GG300 that felt too small when i was up and so i used to ride it seated...the HVA will make it very confy to ride in the up position.

i never felt the electric fan start to work but i'm sure that all connections are OK...not a big surprise because air temperatures here are so low and i revved the engine very little that when i reached home the rad temperature was nothing special...there wasn't even the usual "clicks" when i shut down engine...(IIRC, with this kind of temps my ex-KTM 620 riding at slow pace never switched on the fan also)

Vibrations seems very acceptable...nothing new to me in special compared to my ex-KTM 620...

I really didn't rev it or gone WOT (max rpm was 5500rpm) but next ride i will push it more...however, it was still clear the power arriving with ignition switch in normal mode (OFF position or open contact...same as not have the switch installed with this wiring and CDI)...then in same place and in same conditions i use the other position of the switch....UNBELIEVABLE !!!

Super smoooooth power delivery !!! Simply amazing !!!

I doubt that could be smoother if it had EFI or in other words, i doubt that a GG450 or Sherco 450 is smoother !

No, no need for EFI, just this dual ignition curve for me is enough for all situations.

IMHO, this dual curve is a must_have with a TE510 if you want to ride it in open/easy terrain and then go for tight and/or slippery terrain section (in special muddy terrain...i can't wait to try some uphills when they get slippery that i always managed to climb but with very difficulty...)

[AJSB]

BTW, because the are no torque values for those in the manual and because i read several reports of oil check screw stripping but i wanted anyway to use it, i decided to torque the thermal switch at 4Nm and same goes with the oil check screw, 4Nm...so far so good, i didn't stripped the threads of th oil check screw (knocking on wood).

[AJSB]

Sorry, only now i had time to post pics...they haven't very good quality...i'm not used to take pics and used a cheap mobile phone, anyway, here they are:

(i will post more (and hopefully with better quality) as i make more mods)

[AJSB]

....more pics....

The KTM (actually made by CEV...anyone has their URL ?!?) light switch as delivered by KTM:

BTW, you need to shave the two top screws to 14mm or else they will damage the handlebar...you may notice it in the 3th & 4th pic

How_to modify its kill button to work as a pass light:

Be careful when you make the cuts in the metal tab...you can ruin it...i used pliers ...but i'm an expert with pliers ...maybe its better use a Dremel...i then greased inside with dielectric grease as you may notice some of it in the last pic.

Notice in 1st set of pics that after i made the mods, i installed with base inverted to reroute cable exits to avoid water/debris contamination...

Any comments and/or questions about my pics and/or mods ?

TIA,

AJSB

[Barrobuild]

Yes I cannot believe how small the front disc is.

[AJSB]

Yes I cannot believe how small the front disc is.

What you mean with small ? It has the standard 260mm diameter...or you mean the braking area for the pads ?

[Barrobuild]

Bloody oath,it got huge holes in the middle,very trick gadget,I suppose all thats needed is the bit the pad rubs on,does it float,not much meat to dissipate heat.

[AJSB]

Bloody oath,it got huge holes in the middle,very trick gadget,I suppose all thats needed is the bit the pad rubs on,does it float,not much meat to dissipate heat.

Yes, very huge holes, it floats just like the rear one...my previous experience with this design in my previous bike is that there are no heat dissipation issues at all ( even with very hard braking action a high speeds and air temps of more than 40ºC )...in fact , that's the advantage of the wave design...in special this version of wave (same as the 1st Braking design and not the crappy Braking new design...i heard that the original Braking design was actually made by Galfer or something like that)

BTW, i never used the OEM HVA pads and as soon as i installed the disks i also installed Carbone-Lorraine X1 compound pads in front and X2 in rear...excelent feedback, braking power and very very low disk wear...that was my experience with my previous bike already confirmed with the HVA.

[bigbob 901]

rear brake pads wear quickly on the husky especially in wet soils

[AJSB]

rear brake pads wear quickly on the husky especially in wet soils

Don't know about HVA yet but in all my previous bikes the millage of a rear set is acceptable...i prefer smoother pads (C-L pads X1 and X2 compounds are synthered not too hard or too soft...i use same compounds in all year conditions, also , C-L has a harder compound for rear if i wanted)...granted those X1/X2 compounds from C-L are c**p for ATVs...for those i sell Galfer 1396 compound pads for rear and a new C-L compound for ATVs for the front (Galfer 1396 is so hard that if you put them in the front brakes of a ATV, riders complain that its like not have brakes at all !).

[AJSB]

OK, here is my 1st riding and maintenance reports and how i'm doing the break in:

1st, i done 2 heat cycles...warmed up bike by idling for 4 minutes and let it cool between...

Some days later made my 1st ride...i warmed up engine for 4 minutes and started riding...only 10 minutes, didn't pass 5KRPM...

Two weekends later, made 2nd ride...as usual warmed up engine 4 minutes (usual for winter...i'm gonna stop telling that i'm do it because you already got the picture) and gone riding for 20 minutes at max RPM was 6KRPM.

I made in those ridings lots of gear changes and used throttle very gently but always changing RPM. I was so easy on engine that i was wearing civilian cloths except my boots, helmet and gloves.

1st impressions of the bike was good as power goes but handlebar height felt weird...i was having some difficulties to control the bike in some curves to be honest...in fact, i was considering lowering handlebar because i was feeling front end too light and difficulty to apply my arms strength to control direction in some curves.

1st revision at 30 riding minutes...only surprise was that there wasn't that much debris in oil (pre-)filters and magnet drain plug ! I was expecting a lot more after what i read in this forum ! Sure, some small amount of very fine metal dust in magnet drain plug and some very very tiny metal and sealant particles in the pre-filters but that was it ! No "big" metal chunks like some had...cleaned all pre-filters, put new OEM oil filter and officially put 1700ml of AGIP Racing 10w60...but made an error and put too much oil (bottles have actually a bit more oil... i believe that i put something like 1800 to 1900ml ...but George told me to not be concerned...at most, engine was supposed to dump excess in air box.

3th ride was this sunday...30 minutes...this time i was using my full riding gear except hydration bag...this time i decided to go up to 8KRPM (at the end i checked that max RPM of ride was 8.2KRPM...i'm using the ACEWELL ACE-3100 instead of stock digital computer) with several sudden throttle openings (but not going WOT) and, f**k it, i was decided to attack harder on the curves...i'm glad that i did it ?

What a blast??

Right after in 1st curve (witch was always a weird and difficult curve ) i felt much better !

Bike felt much better this time, much much easier to control in the curves, granted, there was still 2-3 curves that i wasn't fully confident but i'm sure that with more weekends i will be doing curves as well as i was doing with the GG300 with rear wheel sliding all over the place and at great speeds ! I'm not even so much concerned with handlebar height, sure there was a moment that i hit a root at a very wrong angle and i thought that i was going to loose bike control but no, bike itself or me restored correct line easily...it's possible that i may lower the handlebar with the Renthal CL003 adapters but for now i will continue to use the OEM TC adapters with my Fatbars and see how it will evolve my bike control...in fact , i'm starting to like the light feeling of the front end in the curves and handlebar height its great for riding off the seat...bike has lots of power and even with 15/48 and wet ground, there's lot of wheel spin in tall gears ? :p ?

I have feeling that i may end up to learn who to riding it like if it was a 300 2S, witch was what i always wanted with a 4S ?

This bike really likes to be ride hard...i was simply to soft with it in 1st two rides...and i also discover that air pump manometer was way off and 1st two rides i was using excessive low tire pressure...for 3rd ride i measure with a good manometer 14psi for front and 12 psi to rear.

Bike was so easy to control that for the 1st time in my life, i actually didn't mind to use a Michelin front tire (for some reason i never liked their behave in all my bikes, 4S or 2S).

2nd oil change...and to my surprise almost ZERO particles in drain plug !!! This was even more surprising than in 1st oil change!!!?

Another pre-filters cleaning, new OEM oil filter, and "1700ml" (actually bottles error is lower...guess this time i put a total of 1800ml with filter pre-oil_soaked) of AGIP Racing 10w60 oil....engine oil in both oil changes, in special this last one, got out kinda of dark...but thats good because it means that its cleaning combustion residues from piston,etc...

Another thing that need to clarify...i always soak oil filter in oil before assemble it...that oil cames from another bottle and not from the 2 bottles from i get 1700ml...

Torques used are:

Drain plug: 20Nm instead of 25Nm...i may reduce it even more to 15Nm.

Plug of small pre-filter: 15 Nm instead of 25Nm.

2 M5 screws of 2nd pre-filter: 6Nm (same as book says...i use lot of small steps to reach 6Nm with those screws).

3 M6 screws of oil filter cover: 6Nm.

Again about oil filters...i'm using OEM and not HiFlo or Champion...

I sell all of them and noticed some things:

1.HiFlo has less paper folds than others....paper is also different in appearance, completely flat instead of having small "bumps" like he others that increase even further filtering area...

2.Hiflo by-pass valve is the hardest...it also is smaller in diameter.

3.Champion by-pass valve is still slightly harder than the one of OEM filter.

Filters for HVA use a by-pass valve just like Honda/Yamaha/whatever use, except KTM that use instead in the engine oil circuit a overpressure valve.

A overpressure oil control valve controls and limits oil pressure before it goes to oil filter...an by-pass valve in a filter works in a different way:

Until a certain pressure, that with a specific engine oil pump and oil grade is reached at a certain RPM, all oil is filtered and passes by filtering paper...when that RPM is reached, pressure will be too high and to protect oil filter and also to make sure that engine receives enough oil at high RPMs, by-pass valve opens and from now on and until RPM doesn't lower again, oil passes directly w/o be filtered...

Hiflo filter assures , thanks to its harder spring, that all oil will be filtered up to a higher RPM than OEM filter...and even when valve opens, the oil volume passing by that valve will be lower...

IMHO, Hiflo filter is better for riders that do a lot of low/middle RPM and OEM filter is better for sustained high RPM because it assures higher oil volumes delivered to parts...

Next time i will go to 9KRPM...at least ?

Riding time will be 1 hour.

[EKhatch]

Would you happen to know if the ignition module supplied with the bikes imported to the US are equiped with the dual ignition maps? If so would one have to buy the race harness to acces both maps?

[AJSB]

Would you happen to know if the ignition module supplied with the bikes imported to the US are equiped with the dual ignition maps? If so would one have to buy the race harness to acces both maps?

I was informed that US models are Euro2 and those have CDIs with only one ignition curve...to have two ignition curves, you need the racing wiring w/ PN that i put in another thread and a Euro3 CDI...

So, what you need if its a Euro3:

TE250:

Silencer w/o catalyser: 8000A7737 (officially won't give more power but much lighter)

Rubber anti-heat: 800048802

Simplified wiring: 8000A9151

Ignition switch: 8000A9152

Rubber carb inlet: 8000A5737

TE450/510:

Silencer w/o catalyser: 8000A7738 (officially won't give more power but much lighter)

Rubber anti-heat: 800048802 (same as TE250)

Simplified wiring: 8000A9151 (same as TE250)

Ignition switch: 8000A9152 (same as TE250)

Rubber carb inlet: 8000A5783

The rubber carburetor inlets are only needed if you really want so...you can simply cut the tube that connects to them and seal them.

If its a Euro2 you don't need the rubber carb inlet and possibly won't need the racing silencer (if you modify the USA model)...but you will need one of the following Euro3 CDIs to have dual ignition:

TE 250 - 8000 A8932

TE 450 - 8000 A8977

TE 510 - 8000 A9215

DISCLAIMER:

I WILL TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ENGINE DAMAGE, ACCIDENT OR LEGAL PROBLEMS THAT YOU HAVE IF YOU MAKE THIS MODIFICATIONS. MORE, THIS MODIFICATIONS ARE ONLY FOR COMPETITION USE AND WILL MAKE YOUR BIKE ILLEGAL FOR USE ON PUBLIC STREETS. THESE MODIFICATIONS ARE MAINLY FOR EURO3 VERSIONS OF THE 'TE' RANGE AND MAY OR NOT APPLY TO USA VERSIONS, CHECK WITH YOUR DEALER IF THEY APPLY OR NOT IN YOUR COUNTRY EVEN FOR COMPETITION USE.

UPDATED 4/2/2007

[AJSB]

jjm525 kindly informed us of a alternative KTM part for the lower chain roller in the frame...its chain slider of the '07 SX-F from KTM.

I discovered KTM PN and its 77303053000 and ordered several of them to have in stock.

I tested it today and worked perfectly ?

However, the way jjm525 installed his is not the perfect one...i was lucky to discover correct way before riding today and had time to put right...the issue was triggered by my paranoia when jjm525 informed that apparently the HVA OEM roller screw is too long and jjm525 advised to use a shorter one... DON'T DO IT

My paranoia is very big so before i ride i decided to put my head bellow the bike and look carefully to slider alignment...its central "ridge" was misaligned in relation to the "ridge" of the swingarm slider...so, i use the OEM screw and install slider with two 2mm washers, one in each side of KTM slider...

*Perfect* alignment ?

[AJSB]

Ridermannow and JdB requested me the 07 Euro2 service manual...

I'm still waiting (maybe tomorrow) for the permission of my importer to publish it.

Also, as for JdB goes, you don't need that manual...what you need is another file specific for the Euro3 removal and they recommend also some carb mods including a new needle that should have been delivered with your bike (only for racing use after Euro3 removal)...i will try to get the permission for those files.

DISCLAIMER: Removing the Euro3 stuff will make your bike ILEGAL for street use...