HEADS UP!!!

Site upgrade in progress... Core site functions are working, but some non-critical features/functions will be temporarily unavailable while we work to restore them over the next couple of weeks.

Please post any bugs you encounter, but before you do, check to see if it's already listed.

Thanks for your patience while we work to improve the community.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
drzoomn

so that's why it suddenly lost the top end...

11 posts in this topic

if you remember my post from a while ago regarding this....

xr_valvecover.jpg

turns out it was the rocker arm...

xr_rocker.jpg

so anybody make fancy pants rocker? roller rockers? or is OEM the way to go?

also i think the exhaust cam lobe is damaged so i'm going to get a new one as well. any recommendations on cams? the bike is rejetted with only the factory open can instert and i don't want to go wild, but don't mind a little more juice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd check with Rob at Barnums pro. also the arm on left is discolored, from factory heat-treatment or too hot from lack of oil? I would be willing to bet your cam under that rocker is wipped. If it is a lube problem, you better find out why before your new rebuild does the same. Can the filter be placed in backwards? Oil pump going out? etc...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did that happen with a stock cam ?

Was the valve lash maintained, Running a valve lash tite over a period of time will cause that.

Too bad, :lol:

:confused::crazy:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hey porterdog, thanks for the link to the original post. from the looks of it, it looks like oil starvation. the oil was pretty low right before it happened, so i think it was just low oil and hard riding. the top end wasn't dry, so oil is getting up there.

the previous owner was not the king of maintenance, eddie prepped he bike for me for it's journey from CO to CA, and he said it had the dirtiest air filter he had ever seen :lol: i'm bad, but i'm not that bad.

i don't know if the valve lash got too tight, i didn't own the bike for very long before this happened. i will replace the cam and rockers, oil and filter and go from there.

so anyone know of fancy rockers? i can't seem to find any, only some site that tricks out OEM ones.

thank

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I purchased a '99 XR650L with 2500 miles on it last summer and after a 1,000 miles my rockers and cam looked like yours. Valve adjustment was checked and oil changed at 500 mile intervals. Replaced cam, cam bearings and rockers. 300 miles latter top end noise and again, worn rockers and cam. Does the R have the braided oil line from the bottom of the frame? I read in one of the TT forums that the line can get twisted and slow oil circulation. I will be replacing the cam, cam bearings, rockers and oil pump as soon it gets warm enough in Wyoming to work in the garage. Priming the oil pump has also been mentioned to quicken the oil flow to the top end. Any one have any other ideas?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

interesting, i'm not sure about the braided line, but i definitely check it all over. how would you prime an oil pump?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I purchased a '99 XR650L with 2500 miles on it last summer and after a 1,000 miles my rockers and cam looked like yours. Valve adjustment was checked and oil changed at 500 mile intervals. Replaced cam, cam bearings and rockers. 300 miles latter top end noise and again, worn rockers and cam. Does the R have the braided oil line from the bottom of the frame? I read in one of the TT forums that the line can get twisted and slow oil circulation. I will be replacing the cam, cam bearings, rockers and oil pump as soon it gets warm enough in Wyoming to work in the garage. Priming the oil pump has also been mentioned to quicken the oil flow to the top end. Any one have any other ideas?

One thing that you can do is loosen the top oil pipe banjo bolt and check that oil leaks out when the engine is running. You should always do this at a rebuild. Mine took 90 seconds to get oil because I didn't prime.

The screen at the bottom of the frame tube can get so clogged that it stops oil flow back into the engine.

The oil pump itself can be worn to the point of not working too well.

There was a thread about priming the pump about a week ago. It was very enlightening. Here is a compressed version. After a rebuild when the oil pump is dry, sometimes the pump will not prime and pump oil. Priming is really just filling it with some oil so it can start. A long delay can cause damage that might not immediately cause an engine failure, but cause it shortly thereafter. Perhaps your 300 miles.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=457442

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry to wake an old thread.....

I just got my '03 650r on the road, and was wondering if there was a way to check the oil flow to the head on the r. I own a 600 and have always used the exterior oil line that runs to the head as reassurance. Anything like that on the r that i'm missing?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It would be a good thing if someone with a new rebuild( including new oil pump) would measure flow volume by running a tube off to side into a jug and measure after 30 seconds at idle speed. BUT will probably have to have an external hand squirt can, of oil, to pump in on top of cam area to temporarily lube during test. May take two people. This would be a good bench mark for everyone down the road.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0