Drain your swingarm (650R)

I came across some discussion in the Yahoo 650R group regarding siezed axle adjustment bolts and one of the suggestions for avoiding this joy was to drill a 1/8" hole in the bottom of the swingarm just forward of the welded in axle forks. Apparently water can collect in there and, predictably, rust up your adjusters.

I took delivery of my low mileage '01 in mid-December and have been working on it ever since; it's not been out of the garage. A surprising amount of water came out when I drilled these holes. Might be worth considering if you play in the water at all....

$0.02,

Robert

Timely thread. Just yesterday I pulled both my axle adjuster bolts all the way out. Both bolts where corroded--one was heavily corroded and nearly stipped the threads in the swinger. I chased the threads on the bolts and in the swinger and everything is alright. I greased the hell out of them. But the threads on the one side were damaged and aren't as strong now.

Water can definitely collect inside the swingarm.

Not a bad idea, I broke one of mine after bike sat for several months of motor work, sucks now I have to reweld swingarm and tap. I now have SS adjusters and nuts and a heavy helping of anti seize.

...and a heavy helping of anti seize.

+1 on the anti sieze; you should use some time of corrosion inhibitor any time you thread steel into alu. On the ones likely to vibe loose I use Sieze instead (=loctite :lol: )

use plenty of anti-size on the bolts/nuts and spray mucho wd-40 through the holes on both sides of the swing arm. then, remember to do this maintenance every 6 months or so...of course interval varies depending on your riding conditions and the wet weather/spray washer. if you live in the sahara deset your corrosion problem is much less. if you ride your bike on/in the beach while going to the San Quinting, Baja then you need a more frequent interval.

That should keep the corrosion at bay, but what about getting the water out?

I drilled and tapped for M3 or M4 (it was a while ago). Placed button head hex socket stainless screw with a small oring under the head. It works well. A small quirt comes out every now and then.

Eduardo.

I drilled and tapped for M3 or M4 (it was a while ago). Placed button head hex socket stainless screw with a small oring under the head. It works well. A small quirt comes out every now and then.

Eduardo.

Perfect. Something didn't sit well with me about open drain holes. But drain screws...:lol: .

I drilled and tapped for M3 or M4 (it was a while ago). Placed button head hex socket stainless screw with a small oring under the head. It works well. A small quirt comes out every now and then.

Anybody got pictures of their work? I'd like to see exactly where you are drilling.

Who'd a thunk? Wow.

Anyway, I'm doing my clutch-bushing upgrade this weekend and that'll be a quick project to add to the project list.

I have some #8-32 stainless button-head allen-type screws and some extra o-rings that should work, in my hardware bin. I thinl I'll tap in those babies and cross off this headache before it happens.

Thanks guys! And porterdog!!

I drilled and tapped for M3 or M4 (it was a while ago). Placed button head hex socket stainless screw with a small oring under the head. It works well. A small quirt comes out every now and then.

Eduardo.

That is freaking brilliant! You get reputation points for that one, bro...

Here's a pic of my (unplugged at the moment :lol: ) hole on the right side. Bottom of swingarm, just forward of the weld: IMG_0052.jpg

That is freaking brilliant! You get reputation points for that one, bro...

Here's a pic of my (unplugged at the moment :ride: ) hole on the right side. Bottom of swingarm, just forward of the weld: IMG_0052.jpg

Thanks for the cred points porterdog.

This tread reminded me to drain the swing arm... 16OZ (two cups) of water , according to my girlfriend's measuring cup.

The size of the screw is M4 so in case a carb screw goes AWOL there will be a donor in the swing arm.

Cheers!

Eduardo

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