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2006 450 oil change


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I am about to change my oil for the first time, do you guys have any tips on making this an easy task? Or is it an easy task?

I went to the dealership and they told me not to run synthetic oil because the clutch will wear out and the pros run synthetic because they change their clutch after every race. I was going to buy Bel Ray 4 stroke synthetic oil but they wouldn't let me buy it. They actually put it back on the shelf and got me to buy Yamalube 10w-30 4 stroke oil. What do you guys use?

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could be they make more money of yamalube

i use mobil 1 from wal mart

You have to be careful when buying synthetics to ensure they don't contain friction modifiers as that will cause your clutch to slip. If the oil is made for 4 stroke motorcycles with a wet clutch, chances are your fine as it won't contain friction modifiers. I know the old Mobil 1 red cap 20W-50 was good to go but they quit making that.

I use Delo 15W-40 and I change it every 2 rides.

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I bought an hour meter and change the oil every 2 hours and the filter every six. Since it is your first oil change I would recomend changing the filter this time. A tip that will save you in the long run, when you change the filter, loosen all three bolts on the cover a little bit and pull the cover away from the engine to let the excess oil run out. Make sure you have a pan under your bike, as it will run down the side of the engine. The bottom bolt hole has a hole in it for draining the oil out, however if you use it for that small metal shavings can get in the threads of the hole and mess them up. By draining the cover this way it makes more of a mess, but keeps you from having to retap the threads.

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I think, as has been mentioned, the thing with the synthetic oils that causes problems is the molybdenum friction modifiers. As far as I know these are also more likely to be found in semi-synthetics than in fully synthetic oils.

Deisel engine oils have been recommended by some.

Anyways you can do a little search and read for hours as digilube, grayracer and others far more knowledgeable than me nail down the fine details of oil and wet clutches..?

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I am about to change my oil for the first time, do you guys have any tips on making this an easy task? Or is it an easy task?

I went to the dealership and they told me not to run synthetic oil because the clutch will wear out and the pros run synthetic because they change their clutch after every race. I was going to buy Bel Ray 4 stroke synthetic oil but they wouldn't let me buy it. They actually put it back on the shelf and got me to buy Yamalube 10w-30 4 stroke oil. What do you guys use?

Yeah, my dealer said the exact same thing when I asked them about Amsoil. They recommended the Yamalube semi-synthetic.

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Delo oil is made by Chevron and it's an oil for diesel engines but works great for bikes as well.

I change my oil filter based on number of oil changes, every 4th oil change I change the filter. When the bike was new I changed after the first 2 rides because new motors have casting slag floating around as well as making metal while things break in. You should always look at your old filter to see what kind crap your engine is making, if you see alot of junk, increase the oil filter change interval. I haven't seen anything in mine since the first filter change.

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Any oil that you see that is labeled JASO MA, which certainly includes Amsoil MCF and MCV, and should include Bel-Ray, is certified as being compatible with wet clutches, period, whether it's synthetic or not. The only oils that Yamaha has ever stated might possibly cause trouble with a clutch are those which carry the API grade of "Energy Conserving II" (EC II).

Furthermore not all molybdenum based oil additives are friction modifiers. Many currently in use in good high grade JASO MA oils are boundarty lubricants, or anti-wear additives.

Good synthetics are superior to non-synthetics in a number of ways, and should be the preferred choice.

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I am no expert on the oil thing, but I run Mobil 1 MX4T 10-40 in my street bike and there are so many threads on oil that you can go numb. The only thing I'll add is that you shouldn't use the mobil 1 that you buy in Wal Mart for your car, in your bike. It won't protect your clutch. Use a synthetic, "A true synthetic" made for motorcycles. Its the best oil, period. Amsoil, Mobil 1, whatever, but make sure its for bikes. Rotella and the other deisel oils are great too, but don't compare to the high end synthetics.

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Any oil that you see that is labeled JASO MA, which certainly includes Amsoil MCF and MCV, and should include Bel-Ray, is certified as being compatible with wet clutches, period, whether it's synthetic or not. The only oils that Yamaha has ever stated might possibly cause trouble with a clutch are those which carry the API grade of "Energy Conserving II" (EC II).

Furthermore not all molybdenum based oil additives are friction modifiers. Many currently in use in good high grade JASO MA oils are boundarty lubricants, or anti-wear additives.

Good synthetics are superior to non-synthetics in a number of ways, and should be the preferred choice.

What do you use?

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I can't talk about the Walmart in Pennsylvania but the one in Glendale, Az sells the fully synthetic Mobil 1. I have used the 15-50W since about 1997 with no problems. The red cap has been replaced with a gold one. You will have to do some very fancy talking to convince me that there is a better oil than this. Some others may be just as good, but not really better and it is widely available ...Walmart, Checkers, Autozone, etc. at a more reasonable price.

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I can't talk about the Walmart in Pennsylvania but the one in Glendale, Az sells the fully synthetic Mobil 1. I have used the 15-50W since about 1997 with no problems. The red cap has been replaced with a gold one. You will have to do some very fancy talking to convince me that there is a better oil than this. Some others may be just as good, but not really better ...
What I would need to see is the results of the oil having been run through 120 cycles of the ASTM D-6278 viscosity shear stability test. I have no doubt whatsoever that the oil itself is as remarkable as many believe it is, but I have no way of knowing that the oil viscosity index improvers used in the blend are up to being used as a gear lube. It may well be, but until I know, I'll pass.
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I am about to change my oil for the first time, do you guys have any tips on making this an easy task? Or is it an easy task?

I went to the dealership and they told me not to run synthetic oil because the clutch will wear out and the pros run synthetic because they change their clutch after every race. I was going to buy Bel Ray 4 stroke synthetic oil but they wouldn't let me buy it. They actually put it back on the shelf and got me to buy Yamalube 10w-30 4 stroke oil. What do you guys use?

As usual, the dealerships don't know crap about the bikes they sell. Maybe that would be the case with a street bike but I ran Amsoil 10w40 full synth in my 426 for 2 or 3 years and never even thought about the clutch.

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