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fishwater

Downhills with a Rekluse?

9 posts in this topic

I purchased a Rekluse for my 2001 YZ426 but it has not come in yet. While riding yesterday I noticed that there are times where my idle will increase suddenly while slowing down, I imagine this is engine braking? Regardless I do not like it becuase it seems to increase the speed. I use the clutch a lot to slow the bike down in tight scary sections, even with 13/50 gearing there are times when I am in first gear & still moving too fast. I noticed it really bad yesterday after a long stretch in fourth gear when I had to slow down instantly to get through a tight gate. It almost felt as if the bike would not stop & I was not going to stop. I had this sensation really bad last week on some tight sandy single track downhills as well. Without a Rekluse I can pull the clutch lever in & get on the binders real quick, while the idle is still high at least I am slowing down. So my question is, besides the fact that my technique needs work is, will the Rekluse make these situations better even though I can not pull in the clutch to slow down momentum or will the engine freewheel so at least I can get on the brakes to slow down? How will the increased idle affect the Rekluse? Will it cause the clutch to engage making me speed up when I am trying to slow down? Also, is this increase in RPM's normal?

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Do you experience the increase in idle even when your clutch is pulled in? If so, then you have something weird going on with your carb or throttle and I am not the guy to diagnose that. :thumbsup:

With the Rekluse it all depends on where you have the engagement set. If you set it to engage right above idle then you will have compression braking (clutch engagement) until you slow to idle speed or until you lock up the rear wheel with the brakes, at which point you can just blip the throttle to re-engage the clutch. If you set it to engage at higher RPMs then it will disengage sooner when slowing down.

If you use the perch adjuster then you have the ability to manually override the Rekluse and disengage it by simply pulling in the clutch lever as normal.

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Yes, the idle will be high when I first pull the clutch in then it will drop eventually, I imagine the engine still has to continue the rev at that point & then slowly returns to idle?

I did not purchase the perch adjuster b/c I want the rear brake on the bars & still have the decompression lever on the bars. Plus I have also read that it is easier to set up without the perch adjuster.

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Check your throttle cables. It isn't uncommon for them to get frayed at the carb end. If they show any wear replace them.

If your idle speed is ever higher than the engagement speed of the Rekluse the clutch will continue to try to drive the bike and it will stall when you stop. Figure out what is causing the idle speed to change and you shouldn't have any problems.

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I do not run the perch adjuster either. Get an auto decompression exhaust cam and get rid of that compression release! :thumbsup:

Honestly at some point soon I will get rid of the decompression lever but I have sunk enough money into this bike right now. The Rekluse was my treat for the year. My concern at this point is getting it dialed in & getting ME dialed in to it. I will do the cam mod soon but I am more concerned about it's manners in the tight woods at the moment.

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OK, well I got the Rekluse today but still have to install it. From reading the instructions it looks like I should start with the light spring? I am also confused on whether I would want engine braking or not as described in my original post.

It's too bad that it's finally getting cold up here or I would have time to fiddle around with this thing before next season.

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From reading the instructions it looks like I should start with the light spring?

I probably ride very similiar conditions as you and I run the light spring.

I am also confused on whether I would want engine braking or not as described in my original post.

The engine braking "is what it is". If you're going downhill and you want to coast just drag the rear brake and the clutch will disengage. If you want the the engine brake effect, blip the throttle and the clutch will engage.

If you have a hanging idle, you may be running a bit lean on the pilot/fuel screw. Keep in mind the Rekluse likes a little leaner jetting to avoid stalling, so you may be real close already.

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I probably ride very similiar conditions as you and I run the light spring.

The engine braking "is what it is". If you're going downhill and you want to coast just drag the rear brake and the clutch will disengage. If you want the the engine brake effect, blip the throttle and the clutch will engage.

If you have a hanging idle, you may be running a bit lean on the pilot/fuel screw. Keep in mind the Rekluse likes a little leaner jetting to avoid stalling, so you may be real close already.

I just checked my throttle cables & they look fine at the carb as well as at the throttle block. I am sure I have been running a little leaner than normal lately with the cooler winter air. It has been at or below 50 degree's on every single ride since I purchased the bike. I have also noticed a little lean popping when it is closer to 40 degree's vs. 50 degree's on decelleration.

I didn't think about dragging the rear brake if I want to coast, that makes all the sense in the world & actually has me feeling pretty good about the Rekluse again, thanks!

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