wr444 motor split cases?

I heard a awful rattle in the bottom end of my '00 wr444.

I shut it down and pulled the rt engine cover to check out the clutch and counterbalancer key.

The CB seems fine, but I found a piece of steel about 1mmx6mm wedged in the clutch primary gear. I want to seperate the cases to check the trans.

What is the easiest way to do that?

Must I take off the rotor to split the cases?

Must I pull the oil pump too or can I leave it?

My trans input shaft has quite a bit of thrust play, the bearings seem fine and there is no up and down play just about 1/16" "in and out". Is this normal? The clutch basket also has a bit of rock to it. I see it rides on bronze bushings. Is this rock normal?

Thanks

I heard a awful rattle in the bottom end of my '00 wr444.

I shut it down and pulled the rt engine cover to check out the clutch and counterbalancer key.

The CB seems fine, but I found a piece of steel about 1mmx6mm wedged in the clutch primary gear. I want to seperate the cases to check the trans.

What is the easiest way to do that?

Must I take off the rotor to split the cases?

Must I pull the oil pump too or can I leave it?

My trans input shaft has quite a bit of thrust play, the bearings seem fine and there is no up and down play just about 1/16" "in and out". Is this normal? The clutch basket also has a bit of rock to it. I see it rides on bronze bushings. Is this rock normal?

Thanks

Rich,

1. You need to pull the engine to separate the cases - ther's no getting around that. You will also need a puller to separate the left side case from the crank. The right side of the crank just drops into the the right side main crank bearing whereas the left side of the crank is a bit of an intereference fit (kinda pressed into the left crank bearing which in turn is pressed into the left side engine case).

2. Yes, the rotor has to come off and you will again need a puller for that job.

3. The oil pump stays and does not need to be messed with. You will see a round screen when you split the cases and you can/should clean any debris off the screen. Its the pick-up point for the oil in the crankcase.

4. The play in the shaft, and rocking of the clutch basket sounds normal to me.

Yes, the rotor has to come off and you will again need a puller for that job.

Unless you want the crank completely out you don't need to remove the rotor. Just remove the right side case to check the trans.

Unless you want the crank completely out you don't need to remove the rotor. Just remove the right side case to check the trans.

He's talking about separating the cases - how do you do that without removing the rotor:excuseme:

When you seperate the cases the crank (with rotor) will stay connected to the left case and the right case will slide right off the crank.

When you seperate the cases the crank (with rotor) will stay connected to the left case and the right case will slide right off the crank.

Gotcha! Good point.

Thanks guys!

I was worried about having to re-press the crank into the right case.

I do have a manual and I have had the top end off already so it should not be such a stretch to check the trans!

At this point I'm guessing the noise came from that piece of steel getting pounded into the clutch gear. Whatever it was it much have been softer than the gear because the motor still ran and the gear teeth show no marks from the foreign matter.

I'm hoping it's not a piece of the crank or something. whatever it is., it is magnetic.

Thanks again

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