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AREJAY

Anyone with a Scotts Stabilizer on a XR650R

18 posts in this topic

A question for you, Does your clutch and decompression cable get pinched by the top triple clamp and the stablilizer tower when the bars are cranked to the right before it hits the stop? We have tried moving the clutch lever inboard to get the cables to clear, but this does not make enough of a difference. Did you need to use longer cables or route them different? I know the bars will get turned that far in a bad get off or when he's off the bike wheeling it around but there are already some wear marks with only a few hundread miles on the bike. By the way we did not install the stabilizer it was on the bike when he bought it. Thanks in advance for the help.

RJ

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i read that you have to reroute the cables because they are not long enough with it in stalled if i find where i read it i will post a link

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Thanks chpxr,

That would make sense. I wish we had the install documentation, I'm sure that would clear it up. Just a little more info I'm talking about a bolt on kit over the handlebars.

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Have you tried contacting Scotts?

Monday through Friday 10am to 7pm Pacific Standard Time

Saturday: 10am to 4pm Pacific Standard Time

24 hour voicemail: (818) 248-6747

24 hour fax ordering: (818) 248-4529

24 hour email contact: sales@scottsonline.com

24 hour "On-Line" ordering on this website.

Or call us to speak to a real person at 818 248-6747

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AREJAY,

We have the same problem with ours too. A quick solution is to run a zip tie around the cables and the fork tube. The zip tie should go under the front number plate strap. Tighten the zip tie just enough to pull the cables down and out of the way. Precision Concepts also sells a bracket to move them out of the way.

Jim

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Do your clutch and decomp cables route back from the bars down under the tank(left side) and back?

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XR4DEZ -Yes left side and I think the decomp cable is above the tank bolt and the clutch is below the bolt.

asinine - Ya we did the zip tie thing and it lessens the pinch. I'll check the bracket out.

jwm6 - have not called Scotts but I will.

Thanks for the help.

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I had longer clutch and decomp cables made by TerryCable to fix the issue. While I was at it I had them change the ends to better fit the Works Connection CRF hot start I use for a comp release.

Abel @ TerryCable has my spec.

There was another thread a while back also on the subject........

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Do you have your cables threaded through the wire clip on the left side of the frame?I use the works perch too but don't have a problem with the cables. I did bend the wire clip a bit to hold the cables back about an inch. I did the same thing with the stock set up.

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I put some some thick fuel line around the cables (about 3" each) and zip tied them together and this doesn't solve the routing problem, but it will prevent them from being pinched.

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On the right lower triple clamp flange or raised cast piece you can drill, a tap to 6mm x 100, install a flat head bolt. When you turn the handle bars to the right it will contact the frame. This will allow you enough room for the cables on the left side next to the forward mount and prevent them from getting pinched. You almost never go locked to lock on the steering, and if you do at least now you will not pinch the cables on the left side. Also in stall the cable guide piece from 1x international. Hope this helps.

http://69.20.48.188/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=12

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My search-fu must be weak, I looked but didn't see it. Thanks for the lead on new cables and brackets.

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I corrected this problem by running a small wire guide (using wire from a metal coat hanger) between the lower bolts on each side of the upper triple clamp. This spaced the cables out so that they could not get pinched.

Now that I run inverted forks, I don't have this problem anymore (not as much fork sweep), otherwise I would post a picture of this simple setup.

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A question for you, Does your clutch and decompression cable get pinched by the top triple clamp and the stablilizer tower when the bars are cranked to the right before it hits the stop? We have tried moving the clutch lever inboard to get the cables to clear, but this does not make enough of a difference. Did you need to use longer cables or route them different? I know the bars will get turned that far in a bad get off or when he's off the bike wheeling it around but there are already some wear marks with only a few hundread miles on the bike. By the way we did not install the stabilizer it was on the bike when he bought it. Thanks in advance for the help.

RJ

I have the Scotts setup with the sub mount (Below the Handlebars) and my clutch and decompression cables were a problem getting stuck between the Scotts frame mount and the fork tube. I bought the cable guide from Precision Concepts (1X products) and this helps guide the cable is a position that minimizes this problem. The cables still have a slight pinch but its not enough to hurt the cable (or anything else).

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You can run a forward mount and keep the stock cables if you route them behind the triple clamp, run your throttle cables level with the bar and use the cable hanger from precision concepts.

Run the cables level with the bar:

215038678.jpg

Route the cables behind the triple clamp:

215038666.jpg

Use the cable hanger from Precision Concepts:

215038674.jpg

215038659.jpg

Here's another trick not everyone knows about. Take two sets of pliers and create a step in your brake line guide. This will move the brake line away from your number plate and will keep the brake line from rubbing your background off:

215038656.jpg

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Thanks for the pics and tricks ThunderChicken , and that is a super nice set-up bike you have.

We have it corrected now. I was making it too hard, and didn't think of the obvious running the cables behind the triple clamp. Thanks for everyones input.

RJ

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No problem. Make sure you are running the right peg perch fix too. I'm sure you figured it out by now, but if not, do a search on "kritter fix."

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