Help! rear linkage bearings

Well, I bought the Pivot works bearing kit for the rear suspension. I got the old bearings out mangling them in the process. Question, how do I get the new ones in without a press?

Paul

You really need to do it on a press. Taking them out and putting the new ones in is best done with a slow steady powerful push. That being said grease the outside races and take a socket and extensions and bang them in straight as possible with a hammer. They will go but the start is the hardest and the socket has to contact the outer race near the O.D. . I do mine once a year with the swing arm and linkages & shock with a press and it takes a few hours at my shop.:thumbsup:

You really need to do it on a press. Taking them out and putting the new ones in is best done with a slow steady powerful push. That being said grease the outside races and take a socket and extensions and bang them in straight as possible with a hammer. They will go but the start is the hardest and the socket has to contact the outer race near the O.D. . I do mine once a year with the swing arm and linkages & shock with a press and it takes a few hours at my shop.:thumbsup:

First, place the bearings in the freezer overnight-cold causes them to shrink!

If possible, heat the swingarm slightly-like placing it under a heatlamp, or use a heat gun on it, this will cause the swingarm to expand slightly, and they should almost fall in when the two methods are combined.

If you don't have access to a press, use a vice or large C-clamp and a socket in the manner that Indy mentioned. If you use the freeze/heat as chickenhauler said it will work out great.

A threaded rod works just OK. (look at the above post)

I tried a 1/2" bolt and some washers of various sizes and it worked great. My next question now that my rear suspension is very compliant, my front is sticking so bad. What would cause this?

Paul

If you mean it's sticking vertically, as in the forks aren't collapsing smoothly, it could be that the fork tube bushings are worn, causing the fork leg to bind during it's travel. There are kits to re-bush the forks, and you'll need fork seals, too. Sounds like a good excuse to revalve and respring!:thumbsup:

If you mean sticking as in binding during turning the bars, you need to replace the steering stem bearings-not a bad job, but be sure to replace the races, too as bearings and races wear together.

Linkage?? What's linkage ?

-KTM owner :thumbsup:

Linkage?? What's linkage ?

-KTM owner :thumbsup:

Lol...got us there. Hey did you guys see the new issue of Dirt Rider? They had the final report on the long term KTM 525 test. Crank bearing failure at 150 hours and had to replace the rear master cylinder twice. :devil:

If you mean it's sticking vertically, as in the forks aren't collapsing smoothly, it could be that the fork tube bushings are worn, causing the fork leg to bind during it's travel. There are kits to re-bush the forks, and you'll need fork seals, too. Sounds like a good excuse to revalve and respring!:thumbsup:

The forks aren't colapsing smoothly. If I push foward with the front brake on, I can get movement, but if I push straight down, I cant get them to budge. Since it is not leaking, there might not be any oil left in the forks. I will be pulling them off/apart to do seals for sure. Where would I find a bushing rebuild kit?

Paul

Call TT store see if they can get a pivot works kit for you

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