Oil Question

I wouldn't use Yamalube at all, but I said that already.

If you want a top quality oil that's truly suited to the application, use either Amsoil MCF (or MCV) or use Mobil 1 MX4T.

If you want a serviceable, less expensive oil that will do the job for you if change it a bit more often, go with Rotella T 15w-40.

There are, of course, any number of other opinions.

There are, of course, any number of other opinions.

GreyRacer, my guess is this subject has to be the most lengthy over the years with at least 15gillion oil related questions and opinions and of course the Dreaded Technical Oil Discussions....I hate to see what a search would show...probably TMI....to absorb:excuseme:

:lol: probably need to use a ten word string to narrow the results to 2000 hits.

I suppose it wouldn't be such a FAQ if there weren't so much misunderstanding, misinformation, mythology and outright BS associated with the subject. :applause:

:applause:

:lol: probably need to use a ten word string to narrow the results to 2000 hits.

I suppose it wouldn't be such a FAQ if there weren't so much misunderstanding, misinformation, mythology and outright BS associated with the subject. :applause:

:applause:

At that point one would be better off using vaseline....:cry:

At that point one would be better off using vaseline....:applause:

and/or some KY Jelly...............:applause:

Oil questions are like top end rebuild questions,you will get 10 different answers...Ok, so heres mine. lol.....Riding the same 01 426 since early 02, all original Eng.( bottom and top ) and have been running Penzoil 20w50w the whole time. Crude is crude, and as long as you keep it fresh and clean your good to go. My bike runs great, almost always starts first or second kick and no smoke what so ever. Theres a reason Yamaha recommends Yamalube. It just happens to be the same reason they recommend rebuilding the top end every 5 rides(races) as well.........my 2 cents.:applause:

Does anyone use mobil 1 synthetic 4 stroke oil? If so, is it any good?

Assuming you mean either MX4T, or Mobil 1 V-Twin, it's Excellent. Among the best you can use. It isn't cheap, though.

popcorn1.gif I love oil threads!

Just go with the Rotella, and change it often.........

Assuming you mean either MX4T, or Mobil 1 V-Twin, it's Excellent. Among the best you can use. It isn't cheap, though.

Yeah, but its cheaper than the stuff i'm using now. By $7 a litre...save a little money i guess!

i use Redline 10-40 synthetic, it says right on the bottle its ment for motorcycles and dirtbikes, and especially wet clutches, its like 9 bucks a qt though...

YamaLube, Valvoline 4-stroke, Bel-Ray EXS, Castrol GPS, and Pennzoil Motorcycle, to name some that I know of, are also labeled specifically for use in modern four-stroke motorcycles with wet clutches. But there's a problem:

There are several things that are important in an oil to be used for this application, and compatibility with wet clutches is only one of them. Most good synthetic oils, or higher quality petroleum oils, for that matter, will satisfy all but one. Premium automotive oils, and Commercial oils ("Truck" or "Diesel" oils) will do most of what needs to be done.

But none of the oils listed above stay in grade during a standard ASTM D-6278 Shear test. That means that the oils mentioned started out as *w-40 or *w-50 weight oils, and during the test, the 40's became 30's, and the 50's became 40's. The same thing very often happens with automotive oils, including Shell Rotella. This is important because this test closely simulates the abuse an oil is put through in a transmission, and all YZF's share their engine oil with the trans. In actual use, this loss of viscosity can occur surprisingly quickly. Reducing the oil change interval with these is imperative because of this shortcoming.

Most oils not made to be used as gear oils do not have viscosity control additives that are strong enough for that purpose. Some, however do, and Mobil 1 motorcycle oils are among them. Amsoil MCF and MCV are actually labeled as legitimate gear lubes (API GL-1), and are the only two motorcycle engine oils I know of to sport that certification.

But none of the oils listed above stay in grade during a standard ASTM D-6278 Shear test.

Gray where can one find the ASTM shear test results that you mention? Do you think this would be worth a Sticky?

That test was one facet of a comprehensive comparison of 26 MC specialty oils done by Amsoil. Since it has a commercial element to it, I hesitate to make a sticky of it, but you can get the PDF file from Amsoil HERE

The shear test is on page 9. Note how quickly in the test cycle most of the oils that failed, or even the ones that did not, lost the bulk of the viscosity they lost during the test. Also note how flat the viscosity of the Mobil1 and Amsoil products were.

Another interesting result was with Torco T-4SR. The 20w-50 flat lined the test, but the 10w-40 tanked. :applause:

So grayracer513...your saying that going with Mobil1 is not a good choice?

I have no idea how you arrived at that conclusion, particularly given my earlier response:

Assuming you mean either MX4T, or Mobil 1 V-Twin, it's Excellent. Among the best you can use. It isn't cheap, though.

:applause:

Yeah sorry man. I just skimmed through what you said above and when you said "Also note how flat the viscosity of the Mobil1 and Amsoil products were"..i figured that was a bad thing :applause:

No..., if you had examined the test data referenced, you would have understood that this meant the the viscosity of these 4 oils alone out of the 26 tested managed to remain virtually unchanged throughout the test cycle. A very good thing, and apparently, not such a common one, either.

Does illustrate the hazards of skimming technical information, though. :applause:

gray,

One time years ago, an Automotive Engine Rebuilder told me that ANY multi-grade oil, once it has any Contaminants in it at all; loses it's ability to change viscosity. Thus he claimed that if you use a 10W-30 oil, that once you have even just a couple of hours on it, it will remain at 30w, regardless of temperature....so he simply ran straight 30w on everyting.

Any truth to this? or was he talking outta his Posterior??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now