Master Chain Link

Hey guys, I cna't find a master link on the chain on my 06 wr, is this normal? most all bikes and quads I have owned and worked on in the past all had master links. So if they don't have one standard, do they sell a master link?

Ya mine did not have one either just use the chain break pick a spot and break it.

I don't have a chain break pick , and i would still need to join it again.... what then?

You will find that one of the links on the chain is slightly different that all the others. This is your pressed on link. Grind down the pin ends and tap them with a punch of the same size to get the front plate off. Go to your local shop and buy a clip on master link for a #520 chain. In fact buy two and keep one in you riding pack in case you break a link in your chain on the trail. Johnny Campbell's 1X Racing makes a slick small chain breaker that you can keep in your pack to break links on any chain. Good luck.

Sorry to steal the thread max.

What is the best value for money chain breaker out there at the moment. It must be small enough to take with riding and still tough enough to use on a regular basis:thumbsup:

Sorry to steal the thread max.

What is the best value for money chain breaker out there at the moment. It must be small enough to take with riding and still tough enough to use on a regular basis:thumbsup:

Hi Boer,

Ballards in Australia do a mini chainbreaker for AUS$49.95. Just click on the link below for info.

http://www.ballards.cc/Product/1094771426299-6287/category/182/2/

Cheers from Oz :worthy:

Hey guys, I cna't find a master link on the chain on my 06 wr, is this normal? most all bikes and quads I have owned and worked on in the past all had master links. So if they don't have one standard, do they sell a master link?
Its endless or continous. I took mine apart and installed a link.

I second Tony1970. There is one link that is different. It acutally has larger pins in it. Look on the inside of the chain as well as the outside. Use a dremel to grind off the ends of the pins.

Tony I like that little chain breaker looks perfect for the pack. Do you hold it with a cresent wrench or vise grips?

You hold it with a 10mm open end and the press is turned with another 10mm socket or wrench. I have been very happy with it and if Johnny C carries one you know it has to work well.:worthy:

GCANNON and Tony1970

The T-6 Motion Pro is a chain breaker only, it will not rivet on a new chain link. I tried to use one of those little chain breakers on the trail that you describe Tony 1970, it broke. It might have worked, if I had had a file to remove the swaged ends on the link pins before I tried to push out the pin, but I didn't have a file. By the way I broke that chain 20+ years ago and had let the sprockets and chain reach a maintenance condition that was totally unacceptable --- mechanical things do wear out. When was the last time you broke a chain on a ride, as opposed to losing a master link because the retaining clip broke from wear?

The reality is that motorcycle chains have greatly improved in quality over the years. Part of that improvement has been the change to the continuous chain style, because they are much stronger (two times or more) than chains with master links. This fact, coupled with the tendency for late model Yamahas to drag the outside of the chain against the subframe, makes it a very bad idea to use master links on the chain for Yamahas in particular.

All new offroad motorcycles for the last several years have come stock with no master link chains. I just bought a new DID X-ring chain for my son's 2004 WR450F, no master link. My 2003 and 2006 WR450F's came with continuous link chains. Its time to move on to the new technology, buy a chain rivetting tool or pay a mechanic $10 dollars to rivet on a new connecting link (which comes with the new chain by the way) when you buy a new quality chain.

Finally, no arguments that the motorcycle industry eliminated the master link to save money. It takes considerably more time and effort on the assemby line to deal with riveting a link than it does to install a master link. You could however, argue that the OEM's supply the chain already joined (but how would you prove it) and thus they do save time on the assemby floor in the factory, we could argue that for weeks. :worthy:

GCANNON and Tony1970

The T-6 Motion Pro is a chain breaker only, it will not rivet on a new chain link. I tried to use one of those little chain breakers on the trail that you describe Tony 1970, it broke. It might have worked, if I had had a file to remove the swaged ends on the link pins before I tried to push out the pin, but I didn't have a file. By the way I broke that chain 20+ years ago and had let the sprockets and chain reach a maintenance condition that was totally unacceptable --- mechanical things do wear out. When was the last time you broke a chain on a ride, as opposed to losing a master link because the retaining clip broke from wear?

The reality is that motorcycle chains have greatly improved in quality over the years. Part of that improvement has been the change to the continuous chain style, because they are much stronger (two times or more) than chains with master links. This fact, coupled with the tendency for late model Yamahas to drag the outside of the chain against the subframe, makes it a very bad idea to use master links on the chain for Yamahas in particular.

All new offroad motorcycles for the last several years have come stock with no master link chains. I just bought a new DID X-ring chain for my son's 2004 WR450F, no master link. My 2003 and 2006 WR450F's came with continuous link chains. Its time to move on to the new technology, buy a chain rivetting tool or pay a mechanic $10 dollars to rivet on a new connecting link (which comes with the new chain by the way) when you buy a new quality chain.

Finally, no arguments that the motorcycle industry eliminated the master link to save money. It takes considerably more time and effort on the assemby line to deal with riveting a link than it does to install a master link. You could however, argue that the OEM's supply the chain already joined (but how would you prove it) and thus they do save time on the assemby floor in the factory, we could argue that for weeks. :worthy:[/quote

Seemed to work fine on the old chain I tested it on. Maybe you needed a bigger hammer.:D

You will find that one of the links on the chain is slightly different that all the others. This is your pressed on link.

:worthy:

You might have to scrub the sideplates a bit to see it, but it is copper colored.

I just used a chain breaker to push the pin out when I changed chains.

I use the clip master links, I find them just easier to work with for things like removing back wheel.....

I always keep an eye on it though, as they will wear out quicker than the chain.

All new offroad motorcycles for the last several years have come stock with no master link chains. I just bought a new DID X-ring chain for my son's 2004 WR450F, no master link. My 2003 and 2006 WR450F's came with continuous link chains. Its time to move on to the new technology, buy a chain rivetting tool or pay a mechanic $10 dollars to rivet on a new connecting link (which comes with the new chain by the way) when you buy a new quality chain.

Finally, no arguments that the motorcycle industry eliminated the master link to save money. It takes considerably more time and effort on the assemby line to deal with riveting a link than it does to install a master link. You could however, argue that the OEM's supply the chain already joined (but how would you prove it) and thus they do save time on the assemby floor in the factory, we could argue that for weeks. :D

Interesting thoughts...

Every new x-ring chain I have brought (just got 2 new DID x-ring chains about 4 months ago) have come with a clip style master link.

Maybe I am confused by terminology used, but what do you mean by "master" link? Do you mean the rivet style link? Do you mean clip style link? These are both "master" links. There is even a screw type master link.

The OEM DID 520VM x-ring chains on my bikes came joined with the rivet style master link. Are you sure you didn't miss it? :worthy:

I don't think they have eliminated the master link, was the new chain you brought continuous straight out of the packet? How did you install it?

Wasabi,

I am defining a "master Link" as a final link in the chain that uses a removable clip to secure the side plate of the link in place. Once you install a riveted final link in place, you have a continuous link chain with no one link of greater or lesser importance than another, thus new chains utilizing a riveted final link have no "master link". I learned this little bit of trivia concerning chains when I had a conversation about chain breakers with a customer representative at Motion Pro recently.

I bought a DID X-ring chain in September, it had a rivet style "final link". You are expected to rivet the final link when you install the chain.

I see what you mean now.

I bought a DID X-ring chain in September, it had a rivet style "final link". You are expected to rivet the final link when you install the chain.
That sort of sucks in a way.

I thought you were putting on a new chain sorry about that My new chain has like brass or looks brass ends on the master link.Its also pressed on.

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