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twenty34

06 YZ 450 Clutch Pull Improvements?

13 posts in this topic

Can I do anything to improve (make easier to pull) my clutch pull? Is there an extended actuator that I can buy or any other suggestions?

Lastly, I see there's a GYT-R™ CLUTCH KIT, but does this do anything to help pull action? Also, which components of the GYT-R™ CLUTCH KIT do I need?

Thanks!

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Can I do anything to improve (make easier to pull) my clutch pull? Is there an extended actuator that I can buy or any other suggestions?

Lastly, I see there's a GYT-R™ CLUTCH KIT, but does this do anything to help pull action? Also, which components of the GYT-R™ CLUTCH KIT do I need?

Thanks!

Wow my 06 is easy to pull...especially compared to my 03............I do not think the GYTR kit will assist with 06 pull - it is more for the 03-05

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I think it's pretty easy to pull, but not as easy as say, a CRF...If you've tried the new 07 YZ, you''ll know what I mean.

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without going with a hydraulic clutch kit, I can't see it worth putting a whole lot of money into getting the 06' clutch play any easier. Mine feels like heaven compared to my 98' YZ400

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You're kidding, right? I've been over 50 for....quite a while, and I can work the '06 with two fingers, easy.

I guess if you wanted to work on it, I would get either the '07 pressure plate or a Hinson or GYT-R, and then install the '07 actuator (it's my understanding that it's been changed).

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You're kidding, right? I've been over 50 for....quite a while, and I can work the '06 with two fingers, easy.

I guess if you wanted to work on it, I would get either the '07 pressure plate or a Hinson or GYT-R, and then install the '07 actuator (it's my understanding that it's been changed).

Ah, now you're on to somthing...The 07 actuator...Not sure if it's the actuator or the underlying mechanism behind it that makes it easier. The actuator may not work if this is the case...But you already knew this.

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A hydraulic will require more pull than a properly setup cable operation.

First off LUBE the cable with a cable luber. Force it through so it runs out at the clutch end.

If that does not help, then get a different ratio perch & Lever setup like the CR or aftermarket like the ASVs

That should be plenty easy

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Ah, now you're on to somthing...The 07 actuator...Not sure if it's the actuator or the underlying mechanism behind it that makes it easier. The actuator may not work if this is the case...But you already knew this.

The underlying mechanism is a push rod.

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A hydraulic will require more pull than a properly setup cable operation.

That's not exactly correct, you should have said "an improperly setup hydraulic clutch will require more pull than a cable". Meaning you have to be sure you have the right master and slave bore diameters for it to work right.

Hydraulic clutches are better for many reasons, that's why cars ditched mechanically actuated clutches years ago. (I just worked on a 66 'Vette, now that thing had a squeaky, stiff clutch linkage!)

The biggest downside (maybe the only downside) is cost. How many KTM owners are taking their hydraulic clutches off and putting cable setups on? It's hard to overcome the friction problems with any cable operated system, unless it's an open cable, like on airplanes.

I have a Magura clutch on my '06 YZ450, had one on my '03 YZ450 and '00 YZ426 too. On every one of those bikes the juice clutch was easier than the cable. And I never had to lube a cable once! That's the other thing, cables don't last forever, they only wear into the housing and get harder to pull. On those 3 bikes I would have replaced at least 6 cables over the 9k or so miles I put on them.

Oh, and my buddies '07 YZ450 clutch, which is crazy light for any stock bike, isn't as light as my Magura. I just tried mine with my pinky finger only, no problem.

Just thought I'd clear that up for anyone thinking about a juice clutch.

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I have played with hydraulic clutches from stock KTMs to KLX110s. All require more pull than a properly setup cable. And I am not talking using the stock YZ perch either. YEs they have advantages, but so do cables!

you also have to remember that with a hydraulic setup you just have more parts to break and go bad on you than a lever setup. You get a hole in the line or break a banjo bolt and you have no clutch. Yes you can break a cable too, but KISS!

Keep in mind that if you use a longer actuator arm at the engine case, you will have to use a longer pull at the lever.

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Yeah, I agree there’s less to go wrong with a cable setup, but then again there’s less to go wrong with an air cooled XR also, but I don’t see too many guys racing those.

For the guys that are considering a Magura , make sure you get a 9.5mm bore master, not the 12.5. The 9.5 will give you a lighter pull and still has plenty of travel at the clutch. I also use an Enduro Engineering needle bearing lever that’s made for the Magura. With that setup on an ’07 YZ450 you might have a problem with wind blowing on the lever when you go fast and disengaging your clutch. (just kidding.)

Like I said Matt, you can set up a juice clutch improperly also, you have to have the right master and slave. I’ll have to admit, Magura doesn’t always put the right combinations in their kits. That should be no surprise, with aftermarket stuff you have to figure things out for yourself and not assume they have every application right. And yes, if you change the lever or actuator arm on a cable setup you can get it lighter, but it’s hard to get enough travel and you’ll be adjusting it constantly because the engagement point will be more sensitive to movement from heat and wear.

I also agree with KISS, but I sure wouldn’t want to go back to air cooled bikes with cable operated brakes, been there, done that, never again.

Rickk, you're welcome, glad I was helpful.:worthy:

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For the record, my '06 has a lighter pull than my '03 CR250 and my (hydraulic) '05 525EXC ! I was pleasantly surprised.

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