HELP chain adjuster bolts seized!

Okay..... I have a MAJOR PROBLEM.... I bought a used bike, the previous owner never lubed

the chain adjuster bolts and they now are seized into the swing-arm.

They will only turn about a 3/4 turn under EXTREME FORCE.

I twisted off a 1/4" drive (my own stupidity) trying to get them to go further.

I've been WD40'ing them and turning them in and out as far as they will go.

It does not seem to be helping.. much, I've been at it for 1.5 hours!

HELP what to I do to get them out??

What Bike do you have ?

You might try some heat on the bolt

after you wipe off the wd-40

Slow down take your time ,think about it

What Bike do you have ?

You might try some heat on the bolt

after you wipe off the wd-40

Slow down take your time ,think about it

650R ... thanks, I'll keep at it.

650R ... thanks, I'll keep at it.

You might want to try some real penetrating oil. WD40 is not the best thing for this job. Anything labeled as penetrating oil wil do. I use something called SiliKroil from Kano labs. It's the best stuff I have ever used to free rusted or otherwise frozen fasteners. http://www.kanolabs.com/

here's the bad news those bolts go into the swing arm and they are tapped into aluminum. You may have to break them off and drill them out and retapp the threads and put in stainless inserts. Get in the habit of putting lubriplate or some kinda good grease on them when you do get them out. Or it will happen again steel and aluminum don't mix well.

And use anti seize when you are all done!

here's the bad news those bolts go into the swing arm and they are tapped into aluminum. You may have to break them off and drill them out and retapp the threads and put in stainless inserts. Get in the habit of putting lubriplate or some kinda good grease on them when you do get them out. Or it will happen again steel and aluminum don't mix well.

I know all this, on my bikes I always put Teflon wax spray on all these parts.

I just bought this bike used and am in the process of rebuilding it.

I'll try really hard not to break them off, they're pretty far out right now, so

if I could get them to screw in the would work, at least the threads on the

outside are clean and I can put lube on them.

Thanks for the input though. :cheers:

This works sometimes. Use a genuine penetrant such as PB Blaster or Free-All. After several applications, place a brass drift against the head of the adjuster bolt and tap several times with a hammer. Then try gently working the bolt back and forth with a six point socket, repeat. If it does not come loose, try applying some heat with a propane torch. Have patience and repeat these steps and you have a good chance of getting the bolt loose. Use anti-seize on the threads to prevent future problems.

I had the same problem on my 650R when I got it. That they move a little is good. I used a combo of heat and WD40. I first used WD let it set for about 10 minuets then with a propane torch heated the swingarm not the bolt. Then more wd and more heat. It took a few hours of moving it just a little at a time with the WD and the heat but it came out and the threads were fine. Like everyone says, take your time and they will come out. Don't try and turn them too much each time, you don't want to break them off. Also turn them back slightly so that the WD will more easily go down the threads then if the bolt is locked solid plus turning it in drags some of the WD back into the threads. I've also tapped on the bolt head of some stubborn bolts and it helped loosen them up so if you go a little too far and it locks up again tap on the bolt and it might loosen back up enough to turn it.

I've also heard of people drilling small holes in the bottom of swingarms to let them dry out as some get water in them. You could drill a small hole in the bottom then spray in the lube, a lot of lube, and that will get to the end of the bolt (I think it goes all the way through). But I'd try that last.

Memory kickin in here...

When I put a new chain and sprockets on my BRP that water had leaked

out the holes where the adjusting bolts go in at..That means water is

sitting in there against those bolts...

I drilled a small hole 1/8 or smaller,in the bottom back of the swing arm tube so

the water will drain out....I remember more water leaked out when

I drilled the holes...

I still use the never sieze on the bolts..

:cheers::p

This works sometimes. Use a genuine penetrant such as PB Blaster or Free-All. After several applications, place a brass drift against the head of the adjuster bolt and tap several times with a hammer. Then try gently working the bolt back and forth with a six point socket, repeat. If it does not come loose, try applying some heat with a propane torch. Have patience and repeat these steps and you have a good chance of getting the bolt loose. Use anti-seize on the threads to prevent future problems.

Thanks for all the input guys.

I'll get some liquid Wrench today and dump a whole lot of it into the swingarm

via the chain slider screw holes on the left and the brake line screw holes on

the right. I'll let it work on them from the inside overnight and try again in

the morning.

hehe... I've put PB buster in one side of the the swingarm and Liquid Wrench

in the other........ the race is on. Well I can't race the bike, may as well race

the penetrating oils :worthy:

I let it sit for a hour, tapped the bolts "gently" with a dead blow hammer.

Now we wait till the morning. I'll work on them in the day light.

All I did was undo and pull the rear linkage and shock bottom bolts, this

dropped the angle well enough the get the fluids down to the bottom....

provided that there are no ribs inside the swingarm...

I'll have a few beers tonight and forget about it till the morning

This is a great trick that I have used many times. Heat up the bolt and the surrounding area and melt candle wax on the threads. The wax will be pulled down into the threads by capillary attraction.

The problem with WD-40 and other penetrants is the heat makes them flash off.

Good luck, let me know if it helps.

:worthy: Thanks for all the input and advice everyone :D

I got it done on Sunday, I had to cut the two adjuster bolts

off, drill them out and tap some fresh threads in there.

It all worked out great, a bit more effort that I wanted though.

You might want to try some real penetrating oil. WD40 is not the best thing for this job. Anything labeled as penetrating oil wil do. I use something called SiliKroil from Kano labs. It's the best stuff I have ever used to free rusted or otherwise frozen fasteners. http://www.kanolabs.com/

I LOVE "AeroKroil"........Eats rust like nothing else.

It's "The oil that Creeps"

A couple of days ago I had the same problem. The bolt broke. I drilled it but the bit drifted off the bolt and up in the aluminum. I tapped it but I can't get a bolt through there because I have most of the original adjuster in there still. I maybe looking for another swingarm. I can ride it for now using as short bolt to hold the axle in the right spot in place of the long adjuster bolt.

:worthy:

bummer... The way I did it (no idea if it's right :D ) was to first center

punch the broken adjuster bolt (punch and hammer) then using a really thin

drill, I put a pilot hole in as deep as the drill would go (about 1 1/2"). I must

mention that the leftover bits of bolt were flush with the rear of the swingarm

where they screw in. The one snapped off there and the other I cut off at

the same place (flush). I then followed the pilot hole with a thicker 1/4" drill

and after that I used a 9/32" bit. At this point some of the thread stared to

"corkscrew" up out of the aluminum, I could grab it with long nosed pliers

and pull some of it out. At this point the remaining bolt (inside) was

snapped of by putting the center punch in the hole and giving it a sharp

smack with a hammer. (they are still inside the swingarm set in a bed of

chain wax so they can't rattle :prof: )

At this point I grabbed the tap that "best" fit the hole (the first 1/8th could

turn in by hand... almost) then I just slowly screwed it in... the regular oil,

in / out routine. It cleared out the old bolt metal first and then cut pretty

good fresh treads. I used a Standard tap. This ensured a different thread

pitch and only a fraction thicker than the stock bolt.

It ended up at 5/16 - 18. I just went down to Lowe's and got 2 x 2" 5/16 - 18

stainless bolts with 2 lock nuts. The heads are 1/2" which can use a 13mm

wrench..... so it's not too far off stock :worthy:

It ended up looking like this:

bolt.JPG

You did a good job. I was trying to hurry cuz I was going riding the next morning. Also, my drill bit was not long enough and the drill chuck was rubbing on the end of the swingarm. Now I understand why they seize. Water in the swingarm causing the bolt to rust inside. That won't happen to me again..

I'm glad I found this thread.

Outstanding work!!!!

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