2007 WR450 Performance Mods

I have the powerback on my 07 and it's awesome! Well worth the money. Being out of the loop for 15 years so they were more than glad to help with all my questions. Just got the new fast cap for the carb and it really works. Again, awesome stuff!!!

The parts to uncork the 07 WR450 are:

GYT5TJ936901 (AIS removal)

GYT2S2750000 (fuel screw)

Buy from any Yamaha dealer for approx $80.00 total.

Since I paid approx. $7,000 for the bike new, I was not going to start breaking it down myself, so I called a Yamaha dealer to uncork it - they told me the Yamaha mechanics were not qualified to make this bike a performer. They sent me to a performance shop. The 2007 WR450 out of the box is little more than a slow 125cc bike. It dynos at 19.5hp without mods and top speed is not more than 60mph. The performance shop installed the kit and also removed unnecessary parts around the air box and also removed the baffle material in the stock muffler. The bike then dyno'd at 36.7hp. At least it is rideable now and will exceed 80mph over desert terrain. For a total of $250, you can get what you should have bought in the first place. Good luck and good riding...

I read this whole thread and learned a lot. I went to my local dealer and bought p/n GYT5TJ936901. I figured by the time I bought the individual pieces I would be close to that price anyway, even though I don't plan on removing my AIS (California). I will probably make up a stealth kit to block it all off but, leave it on the bike just in case the ranger wants to stop me.

My questions are: Is anyone running the jets that comes in the above kit (175 main and 50 pilot)? It seems that most are running a 170 main and 48 pilot. I have a Dr. D full system on the way so, hopefully the 175 and 50 will be ok? Did anyone else install the carb mods and not disconnect the AIS? Other than a backfire on decel are there any other issues? Last question, what are you guys using to to tie the AP (accelerator pump) linkage? I want something reliable and permanent so a zip/wire tie or an O-ring probably wouldn't be my choice. Going to pull the carb off first thing in the morning.

I installed the 175 main and 50 pilot because in Australia the kit comes with the bike when you buy it .

I installed a gytr tailpipe for the stock muffler and did the airbox snorkel removal and the bike runs good and Im pretty happy with it but it is probably is too rich because the pipe is sooty.

Soon as i get time i will try going down in jet sizes probably one at a time .

Here is what I've got done so far (more to come in the next few weeks):

Guards

Flatlands radiator guards

Light Speed skid plate (bad choice, Flatland is half the price and offers better protection)

Works Connection rear reservoir guard

Works Connection rear caliper guard

Exhaust

Uncorked stock exhaust

Uncorked air box

Handlebars, Pegs & Controls

Pro Taper Windom Mid

Works Connection throttle tube (another bad choice - poor quality)

BRP triple clamp

Acerbis Rally II hand guards with extensions

Sunline levers (clutch and break)

Scott's under clamp stabilizer

Turner thumb savers

Intake, Fuel & Air

Twin Air air filter

Boyesen Quick Shot II accelerator pump cover

GYTR AIS removal kit

GYTR fuel mixture screw

Clipped the grey wire

Cooling

Boyesen water pump kit

1.3psi radiator cap

Engine Ice coolant

Plastics, Seat & Graphics

IMS fuel tank

Tuner stubby vent hose

Sprockets & Chains

BPR chain guide

Tires/Wheels

Bridgestone ultra heavy-duty tubes

What did you do to change the crank case breather? My airbox is lubricating my chain:). Drives me nuts.

My 2007 WR came with a removable clear collection tube. It periodically fills up with a little fluid, then I remove it, dump it, and then reinstall it. Keep in mind I live in a really dry area, I wouldn't suggest leaving this piece on if you do any wet riding.

What did you do to change the crank case breather? My airbox is lubricating my chain:). Drives me nuts.

Hey Rubberband Man, I had the same problem and below is a copy of a previous post I made regarding this pain in the butt problem. I can post pics if you need them.

Previous Post:

I had the same problem of engine oil getting sucked into the air box and it was really pissing me off because of the mess it made. The problem was NOT that the engine was overfilled with oil, the problem was that Yamaha failed to design an air box to allow sufficient air flow for the way I ride. It was designed for an off road touring bike.

Yes, I removed the snorkel and installed six 1" breathers in the sides but that didn't do a damn thing other than it just took a little longer to start spewing all over my swingarm.

Simple fix: Bought breather tube for a 07 YZ450 and a 1/2" plastic tee and routed the breather the same as the YZ with zip ties. The tee is to attach the breather drain hose that runs down to the starter housing. I also plugged the nipple on the air box with a rubber cap just as I did for the AIS removal.

I HAVE NOT HAD A PROBLEM SINCE !!!

Just my input guys.

Hey --thanks for the reply. Will you post some pictures please? The fix sounds easy enough--although I am sometimes mechanically challenged:)

Vanilla Thunder--Clear Collection tube? I'm in Henderson NV--I think it rivals the Colorado dry climate. Mine didn't come with one. I'm off to the dealer.

Hi fellow WR riders, i am kinda new to the TT family. I am so glad to have found a place like this. Anyways, can anyone tell me how to do the airbox mod or point me in the right direction on TT? Thanks Matt.

Hi fellow WR riders, i am kinda new to the TT family. I am so glad to have found a place like this. Anyways, can anyone tell me how to do the airbox mod or point me in the right direction on TT? Thanks Matt.

It's the snorkel right behind the battery.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4049912

I think this should direct you in the right direction ,

This bloke rocks ! :thumbsup:

One more question. Does anyone know what jets i should use for about 600-2500 feet elevation???

Hey --thanks for the reply. Will you post some pictures please? The fix sounds easy enough--although I am sometimes mechanically challenged:)

It's very easy to do and cost very little money. I will post some pics ASAP but be patient as I'm bustin my butt each evening building my patio right now. I can get ya a pic with the tank on tomorrow night. I'm not sure how to post it on here but I'll get er done.

Jumping on the thread.

Thanks for the great help.

One more question. Does anyone know what jets i should use for about 600-2500 feet elevation???

If I were you, I would just get the JD Jetting Kit. That's what I have done with my last 3 WRs and I ride the same elevations and conditions that you do. They jetting has been spot on. Oh, get the scotts adjustable fuel mixture screw too for minor adjustments.

hey guys... i just got a G2 throttle tube with the larger cam (quick turn) i love the way the bike is now... after cutting the throttle screw down there was way to much throttle movement now its just right!

I read this whole thread and learned a lot. I went to my local dealer and bought p/n GYT5TJ936901. I figured by the time I bought the individual pieces I would be close to that price anyway, even though I don't plan on removing my AIS (California). I will probably make up a stealth kit to block it all off but, leave it on the bike just in case the ranger wants to stop me.

My questions are: Is anyone running the jets that comes in the above kit (175 main and 50 pilot)? It seems that most are running a 170 main and 48 pilot. I have a Dr. D full system on the way so, hopefully the 175 and 50 will be ok? Did anyone else install the carb mods and not disconnect the AIS? Other than a backfire on decel are there any other issues? Last question, what are you guys using to to tie the AP (accelerator pump) linkage? I want something reliable and permanent so a zip/wire tie or an O-ring probably wouldn't be my choice. Going to pull the carb off first thing in the morning.

I know it's 3 months late but I got the Merge APS for mine. I bought the JD Jet Kit from the TT Store, and it came with the two different O-Rings for the mod. I wasn't too crazy about a O-Ring breaking and getting something stuck in my throttle linkage.:thumbsup: The jet kit also came with the #50 pilot, but the Zipty air screw said to stick with the #48 1st and do some snap throttle tests. If you have to open the screw more then 3 1/2 times, then step up to the #50.

all i've done so far to mine is drill out the insert in the exhaust and cut off the insert that goes inside the spark arrestor....That really opened her up, but it needs to get hot to perform, oh also removed throttle stop. what else can i dofrom this stand point thats relatively easy, as im no mechanic!

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