Right foot peg Newb question Re: Torque value

Anybody who has installled the 1x Int'l Right foot peg mod have a torque value for the lock nut on the front foot peg bolt? The directions said "Torque tightly" and I tried to match the stock rear foot peg bolt recommendation of 40 ft./lb.s (Per the manual) and stripped it - easily.

I guess I felt it coming, but the nut stripped way bafore a 40 lb. torque wrench release.

I will be going to the hardware store tomorrow for 3 or 4 ny-lock nuts so I can experiment prior to the weekend. But would like to know if anyone got all scientific (Charted the Torque value) with that install.

Thanks!

Didn't mention the size of the bolt, or if it has a locking-type nut. If bolt/nut both are replacable, get grade 5 or better and locking nuts. Don't want footpegs coming loose. If they're available, 40ft/lbs. will be fine. Using std. bolt, start about 20ft/lbs. and "sneek" up on a little by feel.

That's my 2 cents...

My kit i suggest 80 ft-lbs but I use better hardware then the kit you purchased.

I had one of the right side bolts fall out. Luckily, I wasn't too far from camp.

I'm not sure about you mod kit. A little bit of blue Loc-Tight will solve the whole problem. Blue Loc-tight is removable if you need to take them apart again, but it will keep the bolts from coming out. Make sure any spacer washers are correctly located. I never messed with a torque wrench, I just used a standard size 3/8 ratchet until I thought it felt tight. I've been a mechanic, my arm is kind of like a torque wrench.

Thanks all. - I did exactly sneak it up to 40 ft/lbs - but used a different lock nut.

FYI Kritter - (I'm not a bolt expert) but the front bolt, allen type, just made it though a 7/16th hole. The source recommended an 8mm allen to assist screwing the allen bolt though. Turns out, it was not a metric interface. Had to go buy a Standard set to fit right. Also, the nut supplied was a lock-nut, but it was thinner like a jamb nut would be. The replacement nut I bought was standard width (Or thickness, or number of threads, whatever, hey, there's no M.E. after my name on my B. Card!) The one I bought looks like the nylon just barely interfaces the threads. I will check it after every ride - only been on one District 37 race since install so far and been too stiff and sore to check it yet - but if you want - I will let you know if it loosens. Product knowledge of the cometition for you perhaps? If it loosens, I will find my own spec. bolt to match, just a tad longer. And lock it up right. I will get 80 ft. pounds eventually.

I had read about your fix, but all I can say is I thought I would take the quick/easy/"always-in-stock"/factory way out, money-no-object, and was then disapointed with their lead-time. Live and learn. Spend more to get less.

As I recall - the tipping factor for my choice was sending in the core. I was on a schedule when I ordered and wanted it ASAP. I wanted my peg on the bike until I did the switch. I can't recall for sure, but my impression was send you the peg, and then you send Kritter version? Which may leave me W/O a peg for X amount of time? I could be wrong on that - but that was my impression, which might be worth taking into consideration - or not - up to you if you are making $$ on this.

ANyway - thanks!

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