HEADS UP!!!

Site upgrade in progress... Core site functions are working, but some non-critical features/functions will be temporarily unavailable while we work to restore them over the next couple of weeks.

Please post any bugs you encounter, but before you do, check to see if it's already listed.

Thanks for your patience while we work to improve the community.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
simon@vic

Pictures: Building an XR650R for Mexico.

24 posts in this topic

Me and 2 other friends are doing a 7000-10 000km trip in Mexico and i didn't think my 450 was up to it. bought an XR650R for the trip. the other 2 will be on a drz400 and a 950 adventure.

the bike was "like new" with org brake pads @ about 95% and no worn out anything or scratched parts.

200-600km by my guess :cheers:

Here is what it looked like when i got it.

01.JPG

First thing to go was the standard style aluminum handle bars for pro tapers and risers.

02.JPG

Stock pipe gone for FMF TI.

03.JPG

I have been let down highly by Baja designs , electrax, and trick dual sport kits......but the bike needed to be inspected and plated for the trip. i built my own kit with a "moose stock + 2x 100w stator" as the heart. stock style {50w?} windings are powering a Baja style 2 phase REG/REC and a battery for the DC system {turn signals and horn}. #1 100w AC lead is running my 80/80w pia H4 superwhite headlight, tail light, and brake light. #2 100w lead is an AUX power source. the picture is my wiring ideas in the planning stage.

04.JPG

Coolant temp and tach sensors for vapor computer.

05.JPG

Moose Titanium pegs. way too expensive but well worth it!

06.JPG

Glass lens, metal bucket, plastic shell hand made AL brackets. Ugly but no melting! and yes the horn is loud!

07.JPG

works connection rad braces

08.JPG

moose rad guards

09.JPG

New oil and stiffer settings for the forks and shock. also cleaned and greased steering head bearings, swing arm, and linkages.

10.JPG

Bash plate i fabricated from scrap 6061 plate.

11.JPG

turn sigs from a 950 adventure. ugly but legal.....

12.JPG

My view for this winter. from left to right: KTM EXC left hand bar switch, useless plastic LH mirror, gps , Back lit computer with all the goodies, and the "go fast handle".

13.JPG

Also done:

-desert gearing 15/48.........

-heavy duty tubes, off road tires, balanced.

-Valve adjust

-jetting

-spark plug

-synth oil

-full service

-chassis tare down and cleaning

Still to come:

-25L fuel tank

-cargo bag supports

-some kind of seat mod or upgrade....... open to any ideas

pigs can fly!

I finished my cargo system today.

not flashy but very strong.

cargo%20_001.JPG

cargo%20_002.JPG

cargo%20_003.JPG

my $12 saddle bag supports. vice, drill, and a zip disk.

cargo%20_004.JPG

cargo%20_005.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What didn't work for you with these other guys? And, where did you get that horn? Mine sounds like a kid's kazoo.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your bike is probably late enough of a build to have the updated clutch bushing, but you may want to double check to see if it's the 2 window one.

Also, I'd recommend spending the $3 and putting in a new countershaft sprocket seal before the big ride. Carry along a spare clutch cable too.

A KX radiator cap would probably do a lot of good since you're running the factory radiators. Elevating the boiling point would probably be a help in the slow stuff.

Have fun in Mexico!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i always carry an output shaft seal with me.

wont a 1.5 cap crate allot of pressure in my cooling system. wouldn't it be better for it to blow out and me let the bike cool down?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

wont a 1.5 cap crate allot of pressure in my cooling system.

That's exactly what you want it to do. Increasing the system pressure elevates the boiling point of the coolant. If your hoses, clamps and radiators are in good shape, the 5-10 psi change in pressure won't make a bit of difference, except that the coolant will boil at a higher temp and hopefully minimize hot spots in the head.

I think the little KX's have a 1.8 bar cap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I went with the 1.6 cap with fluidynes. Haven't boiled over since. Most 650's I ride with run a 1.6 or 1.8. Have you considered a mousse tube for the front?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
i always carry an output shaft seal with me.

wont a 1.5 cap crate allot of pressure in my cooling system. wouldn't it be better for it to blow out and me let the bike cool down?

As far as I know boil over is only an issue in slow going. On the highway or when ever your speed is enough to get some airflow, boil over isn't going to happen. Nasty long first gear hills when it's hot will do it. Airflow is key. The best thing is to rig up some kind of recovery bottle. One of my friends did this on his CR500. Those bikes are known to boil over frequently. He has it setup so that when the engine cools down, the coolant is sucked back in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The best thing is to rig up some kind of recovery bottle. One of my friends did this on his CR500. Those bikes are known to boil over frequently. He has it setup so that when the engine cools down, the coolant is sucked back in.

the 650R has a coolant res bottle stock...............

its on the left lower side of the engine...............

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

so the thermostats stick open or closed????????

open is fine by me {like my WR} but stuck closed could be very bad!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's stuck open. The coolant wasn't spending any time in the rads that way and she over heated. I was doing some pretty tight, steep hill climbs so I was on the gas pretty hard. She seems to be running ok now though. The stock thermostat is a flimsy stamped unit. The SRC is quite beefy in comparison. And it was only about $25 shipped to my door. Do you need any maps or books prior to your Baja trip? I have lots. I have Garmin , Baja GPS maps too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
As far as I know boil over is only an issue in slow going. On the highway or when ever your speed is enough to get some airflow, boil over isn't going to happen. Nasty long first gear hills when it's hot will do it. Airflow is key.

air flow seems a bit restricted by all the funky radioator bracing and protection shown in the above pix. I would thing that a bike "protected" like that will run hotter than the stock bike (which is what I still run, and does it ever get hot when you hit the first gear stuff...engine ice and rad cap don't really help that much - I am adding a fan this winter)

Peter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

gaspipe or other: when did that clutch bushing switch over? and what do I have to tear down to inspect it?

z

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I finished my cargo system today.

not flashy but very strong.

cargo%20_001.JPG

cargo%20_002.JPG

cargo%20_003.JPG

my $12 saddle bag supports. vice, drill, and a zip disk.

cargo%20_004.JPG

cargo%20_005.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

looking to take mine down to baja this winter some, just looking to setup some bags for it. Thinking about dirtbags, do I need the subframe brace with those too? or just the brackets/bags?

Ken

firstride2.sized.jpg

firstride3.sized.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thinking about dirt bags, do I need the subframe brace with those too? or just the brackets/bags?

QUOTE]

sorry, i don't know about the dirtbagz supports.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0