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metalmulisha

Any fix for the 06 CHAIN PROBLEM

27 posts in this topic

hey guys just bout an 06 and the chain is startin to rub and yes i have searched this but wondering what ppl have done to rectify this ie guard of some sort (pics) also what is the correct chain slack

thanks alot in advance

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Its the standard D.I.D chains that tend to wear very quickly and ocasionally snap.

My advice is to go out and buy an X-ring chain eg EK.

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I adjust my stock chain per specs and I haven't had a bit of problem or major stretching, I have only had to slightly adjust it twice. I don't see why people keep referring to the stock chain as junk.

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The stock chain is JUNK!!

If you keep meticulous maintenance on it, it will still stretch A LOT.

Most people simply replace it, before it will damage the sprockets. The stock sprockets are actually pretty decent quality, but if you let that stock chain stretch too much, you will ruin the sprockets. I'd recommend a REGINA chain , either o-ring or non-o ring model. it will stretch maybe two times, than never.

If you aren't stretching the stock chain, you must not be riding very hard.

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The stock chain is JUNK!!

If you keep meticulous maintenance on it, it will still stretch A LOT.

If you aren't stretching the stock chain, you must not be riding very hard.

yeah, I'm sure that's it...

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I adjust my stock chain per specs and I haven't had a bit of problem or major stretching, I have only had to slightly adjust it twice. I don't see why people keep referring to the stock chain as junk.

It's people that actually take their bikes off the stand at the track and ride them that are having the problems. :cheers:

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One of the ways we eliminate this on Supermoto bikes is to add one of these:

http://www.gravesport.com/cgi-bin/shopper?preadd=action&key=SG__400K

i'm not sure how that would stop the chain from hitting. where mine is hitting is up front by where the subframe bolts to the main frame. just to the rear of the small sprocket, i think the only way to stop it might be to runn the chain a little tighter than normal, i put the tm slider on the front and it said in the instructions that you can run the chain a little tighter with this on there. i have already changed my chain to a gold non o- ring(not the wide one) and i use a small slide ruler to set my chain adjustment the same side to side, i think mine is still hitting it once in a while.

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I also have had some wear on the inner part of the sub frame. I think it was from a mud race earlier this year. I had a ton of mud built up under the carb area, which I didn't realize how packed up it was untill it was over. Besides that I had a non brand o-ring chain on at the time, later I read that they are wider because they use cheaper material to make their chains with. The

"better" brand chains use stronger, but less material on ther stuff.

Next time I get a chain it's going to be either the Regina o-ring(I think it's the orng3) or i want try Renthal 's gold non o-ring to see how long it lasts. Now I make sure i run my chain a little tighter than i used to. I wish I could fab a little gaurd of some sort to protect the inside of the sub frame though.

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the part from graves is to keep the chain from hitting the wheel and or tire on the supermoto bikes (both my bikes have them). the stock chain might rub the inner frame area if you arnt running correct tension or proper alignment. mine has lightly hit the frame a few times, but not grinding away at the the frame. but again mine stays in supermoto trim. i am guessing larger jumps and obstacles are contributing to the chain, and frame problem. there isnt much room between the frame and the chain surface, probably would have been a good idea to recess the area where the chain possibly could hit as a mfg update. but that would require lots of re-engineering. ski

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throw a renthal non o-ring on it and keep it lubed. I just got an 07 450 and i uncrated it, put it together, rode it around our shop and had to adjust the stock chain so whoever said he has never adjust the stock chain must not have the right specs on that. that thing is junk!!

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So, riding the "new" bike around your shop, stretched the stock chain....

riggggghhhttt...

With that logic, you better replace anything else you adjusted, lubed, or oiled after uncrating and "riding" around your shop...

good luck on that...

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"The '06 Chain Problem" has nothing directly to do with the abysmally inferior nature of the OEM chain, bad though it is. What this is a reference to is the trouble some are having with the chain hitting the inside of the frame above the swing arm hard enough to cause significant damage.

I have said before that this is most likely caused by incorrect rear wheel alignment, which will cause the chain to run off of the rear sprocket at an off-line angle on coast, which makes it whip back and forth in an 'S' along the top run. Cheap, thick-plated O-ring chains like the Primary Drive units aggravate the problem. I have a Regina ORN6 O-ring chain on ours (which has not required any adjustment since it was installed in June), and verified the rear wheel alignment. While it has made some contact with the frame, it's been minor, and is not a problem.

As to the stock chain, it's no better now than it has been for the past several years. It's made worse by the fact that people make the incorrect (usually) assumption that it's lubed and adjusted right when they get the bike, and in fact neither may be true. The chain's poor quality will not allow it to tolerate the least bit of such abuse, and once it wears even a little, there's no further hope for it. Some people who are either lucky enough to have had their bike really set up well by the dealer, or have dealt with the stock chains themselves prior to using it, can get better service out of them, but still nothing on a par with even a moderately high quality replacement chain, sealed or not.

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I had the same problem but another 1/4 turn on the adjuster will stop that from happening. Its in spec but on the tight side.

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Tight or loose isn't the issue, either. I run ours at the loose side of the specified slack, around 2.1-2.3".

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Alot of confusion with chain slap and hitting the subframe:crazy:

Anyhow... not aligned huh....do you recommend the aftermarket chain blocks or measure it? Or?

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Alot of confusion with chain slap and hitting the subframe:crazy:
They're having trouble with that, aren't they?
Anyhow... not aligned huh....do you recommend the aftermarket chain blocks or measure it? Or?
The OEM blocks are probably fine, but any axle block is only as good as the reference marks on the swing arm, and those can be off. My favorite method is to use a straightedge along the rear sprocket all the way to the front. There are alignment tools that eliminate any need to remove the chain to do this by straddling it and pointing to the center of the chain. This method works very well, and makes the slightest misalignment very obvious.

Measuring from the pivot bolt to the reference mark will also work, but IMO, it's harder to get it perfect that way (although certainly not impossible). Even eyeballing is better than nothing.

If there is a discrepancy in the positioning of the marks, you can either make a second, accurate mark, or pair of marks, or simply remember which way and how much to correct it when adjusting the chain.

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well apparently we dont understand sarcasm. Obviously the chain wont stretch that fast genious. my point is that the stock chain is JUNK. Different people like different chains but most agree the stocker sux!!! And my bike is set up and adjusted just fine. im glad you reminded me to check everything

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Get yourself a TM Designworks chain set(glide and slider) it works great and you shouldn't hear the chain slap anymore.

I think it's bogus that they won't just sell you the slider you have to buy the ugly chain guide too.

A real bargain at only $139. :cheers:

Thanks for the info., but for what they want for it I'd have to pass.

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