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XR250_RIDER_14

GYTR clutch kit problem PLEASE HELP

53 posts in this topic

I got my GYTR clutch kit and some barnett springs finally cause it wouldnt engage right. Took it apart and took it to the shop to have them look at it basket and all and it was all good.

I finally got it installed with the cover off and the springs firm but not torqued yet. I tried to pull it back and the cable was loose. I tightened it and it pulled really hard and crappy.

The actuator arm or whatever is alot longer than the stock one and it made the cable bend at the connection down by the front sprocket where it goes on the arm and I think thats why it pulled so shitty.

I just put the stock one back in and now I have WAY to much cable and I cant even do anything with it now.

SO my question is HOW DO YOU MAKE THE GYTR ACTUATOR ARM TO FIT RIGHT AND NOT COME SO FAR OUT OF THE ENGINE.

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What year bike? I put the GYTR kit in my 06 and didn't use the actuator arm... didn't think you were supposed to.

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I have the 03 the year that needs it

geez...you are having one problem after another....:mad:

"HOW DO YOU MAKE THE GYTR ACTUATOR ARM TO FIT RIGHT AND NOT COME SO FAR OUT OF THE ENGINE."

The actuator arm only fits in one way.....if it was not installed correctly with the spring it will not keep the cable tight. If you have cable play at the actuator and you have adjusted the cable slack (the adjustment is slight and at the top of the cable at the clutch perch)...you either stretched the cable and it needs to be replaced or the actuator arm ain't actuating....keeping tension on the cable....who did this install? I suggest you get your bike to a decent mechanic.....hopefully some of these problems that you keep having will be elleviated...

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Okay ga426, Is the actuator arm supposed to stick out that far though? I put the stock one back in. What is the new one supposed to fix? It makes the cable have to bend up alot. It just doesnt seem to fit right. I'm taking it to a mechanic to get it rejetted so I will have him take a look at it.

Can you take out and mess with the actuator arm with all of the clutch installed?? Or do I need to take everything else back out to install it?

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By the way I'm doing all of the work to my bike. I am broke right now and cant afford a mechanic to work on it. Im learning alot and really care about my bike.

One more question is; Is there supposed to be a bearing where the pressure plate goes on on the long rod that goes into the engine? When I took it apart I didn't see one. I studied everything when I took it apart. I didnt see the bearing or the washer the manual says there is supposed to be.

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What does that long rod do anyway? It is long and has a screwy looking ends on it with a piece with a little ball that is inside of it which pushes on the pressure plate

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When the actuator shaft, #20 is rotated by the cable, it pushes against push rod 2, #19, the ball, #18, and push rod 1, #14. That is what lifts the pressure plate off the clutch plates to release it. The Beraing, #15, and race, #16 are held onto push rod 1 by a circlip, #16.

partimage.gifx?d=41554,2,0

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My clutch is missing items 17 15 and 16. That is probably what was wrong with my clutch in the first place? My plates were burnt.

Figured out why I has so much extra cable too. I forgot to install the pushrod:busted:

I got the pushrod in and realized when looking at the manual diagram, that I was missing the bearings and washer and the circlip. I do guess that my clutch needs these parts right grayracer? These parts were NOT there when I took it apart.

When I do install the a/m actuator arm it wont go in as far as the stock one making the spring to little on the outside(not tall enough) and the cable router is too low resulting in the cable having to make a sharp turn up making my clutch even hard to pull on top of the new barnett springs. Am I just putting it in wrong? Can I just use the stock one? I want to use the a/m one but it wont install right. What is the advantage anyway?

Everything else is fine. I just need to get those parts:ride:

By the way thanks for explaining to me how a clutch works:thumbsup:

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How is it missing those parts? are you sure they arn't there? That pressure plate would be a mess without the bearing in there. Are you sure you didn't forget to put it in? or maybe misplaced it when you took it apart?

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The GYT-R actuator is essentially an '04 actuator, and if you remove the long push rod at least part way, it should slip right in place. The advantage is reduced clutch pull effort.

And yes, you do need the bearing and race. The circlip is not absolutely needed, but the bearing race could fall out of place under certain circumstances without it if the cable was disconnected.

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I just put my GYTR clutch in last weekend. Complete with the new arm. Funny thing is I measured the one I took out against the new one, it was exactly identical. I don't know what the big difference is.

Clutch engagement is smoother, but the pull is still a bear:thumbsdn:

This actually contributes to my bad arm pump

I've ridden a CR500 with a lighter clutch pull than my 450!

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My '03 has a complete Hinson in it, and the GYT-R actuator. It is a two finger operation, and the best clutch I ever had in any dirt bike. You might look into a cable for yours

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My '03 has a complete Hinson in it, and the GYT-R actuator. It is a two finger operation, and the best clutch I ever had in any dirt bike. You might look into a cable for yours

agreed same here with mine.....

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By the way I'm doing all of the work to my bike. I am broke right now and cant afford a mechanic to work on it. Im learning alot and really care about my bike.

understand and that is how you learn to work on it.....just take your time and use the manual...and ask here for help....:mad:

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My '03 has a complete Hinson in it, and the GYT-R actuator. It is a two finger operation, and the best clutch I ever had in any dirt bike. You might look into a cable for yours

Hmm...I have a new cable, the GYTR plates and pressure plate and arm.

Did any of you install new springs?

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Hmm...I have a new cable, the GYTR plates and pressure plate and arm.

Did any of you install new springs?

yes I did...:mad:

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Does item 23 have to go in that smaller diameter part of the arm towards the top of the new actuator arm? Becuase if I dont then the little 8mm screw that holds all of stuff in wont go in cause it doesnt line up right. And I put it in without the pushrod installed it still wouldnt go in any farther than the stock one. It is longer right.

If it does like I said it kind of bends my cable because it seems like my cable router that you use to adjust the clutch isnt tall enough. Is this fit normal?

By the way I put it all back together AND ADJUSTED THE CLUTCH and started it. Whenever I put it in first my bike creeped! My clutch was tight too. Why is it doing this now. its never ending.

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Does item 23 have to go in that smaller diameter part of the arm towards the top of the new actuator arm? Becuase if I dont then the little 8mm screw that holds all of stuff in wont go in cause it doesnt line up right. And I put it in without the pushrod installed it still wouldnt go in any farther than the stock one. It is longer right.

If it does like I said it kind of bends my cable because it seems like my cable router that you use to adjust the clutch isnt tall enough. Is this fit normal?

By the way I put it all back together AND ADJUSTED THE CLUTCH and started it. Whenever I put it in first my bike creeped! My clutch was tight too. Why is it doing this now. its never ending.

(sorry for the caps KEYBOARD IS FLAKEY)NO IT IS NOT LONGER - IT ONLY GOES IN ONE WAY. iF THE 8MM WILL NOT GO IN FLIP IT (THE CLIP) OVER OR TWIST THE ARM TO ALIGN IT - NOTICE THE ROD END MUST LINE UP WITH THE NOTCH IN THE ACTUATOR ARM

CABLE SHOULD BE STRAIGHT - NO BEND - YOU HAVE THE ARM POSITIONED WRONG...WHAT CABLE ROUTER...TO ADJUST....IT IS FIXED/NO ADJUSTMENT

YOU DO NOT HAVE IT INSTALLED CORRECTLY OR THE ADJUSTMENT IS WAY OFF AT THE CLUTCH PERCH (TOP OF THE CLUTCH CABLE)

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