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Blade Man

06 XR650R Skid plate

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Just got a new XR650R about three weeks ago and already broke bottom of plastic skid plate.

Any one have an Idea of what the best skid plate is to run on this bike?

Not so worried about price as I am QUALITY, to and including mounting.

Does it need holes to breath to prevent over heating?

Any help would be apreciated especialy if you have pics.

Thanks,

Blade Man

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I use a skid plate on my L from B and B aluminum products from Australia. I think its a far superior product than anything made in the U.S. www.bbaluminum.com is the web site. By the way I run the higher winged safari model on my air cooled L and never noticed a temp. change and there's no holes in the front as well. So I'd have to imagine the same would go for your liquid cooled R. :devil:

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Just curious, how/where did you break the factory one. When I first bought mine, I thought it was cheesey, but it has been on their since 2000. It has taken some hits too. There are some really deep gouges in also. I have been impressed. Good enough for Team Honda , good enough for me.

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I agree with Blaker-- stock is good. Less vibration, less weight. Blade Man- tell us where you ride that beast--woods, rocks, desert, street, swamp,dunes, gravel pit, freestyle jumps, down the driveway to check the mail, pre-running the baja 1000....

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If you do your own valves and like to take off the side cover, get a plate that does not need to be removed to allow the cover to come off. Moose and those that resemble it have to be taken off to remove the cover. Yeah I know there's a site hole, just don't like it.

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If you want the absolute best fitting aluminum plate that you can get, the plate from Summers Racing is by far the best. I have trashed all of them (WB, XR's Only, Devol , Utah Sport Cycle, etc...) over the years. The SRC plate is the only one that has held up. It is VERY pricey, and it does not protect the water pump all that well (it does not flare out to the sides), but other than that, it is superb. It is also the only plate that I have had that has not "slid" down the frame. Mine bolts to the two upper mounting holes in the frame that the stock plastic plate uses, and the traditional clamp pieces over the frame tubes on the bottom.

FYI... I bought the Utah Sport Cycle plate from Rock Mountain MC 'cuz it was cheap. When it didn't hold up, I bought a White Bros. plate. For $20 more. Lo and behold it was the same &*%$ plate! I found out later that the Utah people made the plates for WB. Just something to think about. If the pictures look close to the same, the plates probably are the same, so shop accordingly.

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Another vote for the stocker if it is not a ripoff to replace. It's a very good design, light, and makes no noise compaired to the aluminum variety. I had an aluminum plate on my last bike while I liked the fact that it was pretty bulletproof and had great coverage I would still go back to the stocker on the 650R. If you gotta go aluminum the Thumpertalk one mentioned above has the air holes and also looks nearly identical to the Baja Designs plate. Could be the same thing.

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If you do your own valves and like to take off the side cover, get a plate that does not need to be removed to allow the cover to come off. Moose and those that resemble it have to be taken off to remove the cover. Yeah I know there's a site hole, just don't like it.

remove the cover??? I do my valves about twice a year and never had to take the cover off, and do mine in about 20 minutes:thumbsup:

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Yep 20 minutes is about right.I do em every month, that's about every 1000 miles.

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Another vote for the stocker if it is not a ripoff to replace. It's a very good design, light, and makes no noise compaired to the aluminum variety.

I would agree with this statement, however if you jump your 650R (and I do), the frame will catch on the back when you case out on a landing with the plastic plate as it is open under the back of the motor. If you don't plan to moto your bike, the OEM plastic plate is a great piece: quiet, light, & cheap.

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The only drawback with the stock plate is the frame rail side always breaks apart just in front of the left side footpeg. I have a stack of perfectly good stock skid plates that all have the same tear in the same place.

I'm saving them because one of these days I want to come up with some kind of fix that involves the OEM plate and those plastic grind rails they used to sell for skate boards back in the 80s.

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WOW. posted yesterday morning and havent been able to get back. What a great response with lots of good advise.:devil:

My skid plate broke just in front of the right foot peg. On that narrow part and it snaped completely in half. I have only had the bike for 3 weeks and it broke the first week I got it!:thumbsdn:

Any how I ride in the desert out side of Phoenix mostly down by the coke ovens and up north of Superior. Fairly rocky country.

I have cased it a few times already and have just gotten it broke in :thumbsdn:

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Check out Rideaide's skidplates, have dealt with him myself he is a straight shooter, will take his word for it!

Can email him at rideaide@hotmail.com

good luck on your quest:thumbsup:

You should uncork your pig so she will run with the wild mustangs!:devil:

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