Another "WR stator in YZ" question...

okay all. I've been reading and searching about this mod for MONTHS now. I finally found a used stator and flywheel from a fellow TT member (thanks illikonoz). I've done the pink wire mod as I want to run the bike of AC because I really don't want to find a place to mount a battery, nor do I want to have to spend $45 on a Reg/Rec. I have a Regulator wired in as well. Okay, here's the deal:

The bike starts and runs like normal (I really like the added weight for trails, it seems a lot smoother at the sacrifice of some 'snap'). However, the stator is from a WR400 and there are TWO, not one, but TWO yellow wires. I looked at a wiring schematic from a wr400 and they apparently come stock w/ a battery (the 426 doesn't as I understand). So the two wires are for a reg/rec. Can I just splice the two together and run AC off them?

Secondly, I hooked my lights up to just one of the yellow wires and ran it and it worked for a bit until I gave it some revs (yes the regulator is hooked up). Now the lights don't power on with that wire. However, a multimeter reads that there is voltage coming from that wire, and the bulbs aren't blown because I can turn them on when hooked directly to a battery.

Soooooooooooo...any ideas?

Do you have any way of posting the schematic? That, or PM yzman400.

Well 1st the WR400 never had a battery. Maybe the overseas version did I dont know.

2nd the wr 400 stator puts out like 75 watts were the wr426 stator puts out about 130 watts....just a FYI for ya.

As for why yours is giving you troubles I have no idea. Try calling www.electrexusa.com they know all about those things.

The stator is from a european version. Could that be it. I know it doesn't put out quite as much as the 426, but I got it all for a really good deal...so...maybe it wasn't such a good deal. I'll try and call electrex, but they've never answered when I've called (at least in the 10-15 minutes I would sit on hold waiting).

I had a similar problem with my 426 when installing a light kit. I switched the regulator to a WR450 Reg/rec and the problem went away. Not sure if it would fix your problem.. but I have a feeling your are better off switching the current to DC, even if you dont run a battery. I think the lights are more stable on the DC.. Did you make sure your bulb didn't "pop"?

I had a similar problem with my 426 when installing a light kit. I switched the regulator to a WR450 Reg/rec and the problem went away. Not sure if it would fix your problem.. but I have a feeling your are better off switching the current to DC, even if you dont run a battery. I think the lights are more stable on the DC.. Did you make sure your bulb didn't "pop"?

Thanks for the replies so far guys. I really appreciate it. But how exactly do I switch the current to DC w/o running a battery? I wanted to, but didn't want some nasty battery taking up the limited space there already is.

No, the bulbs didn't 'pop'...they still work, even right now. BTW, did you just set-up the lights to always be on, or do you have a switch?

Once again, thanks all!

Thanks for the replies so far guys. I really appreciate it. But how exactly do I switch the current to DC w/o running a battery? I wanted to, but didn't want some nasty battery taking up the limited space there already is.

No, the bulbs didn't 'pop'...they still work, even right now. BTW, did you just set-up the lights to always be on, or do you have a switch?

Once again, thanks all!

I used the Baja Designs control switch so I could switch the lights on/off. Its a good switch, controls the engine kill, turn signals and horn aswell. I believe the rectifier will convert the power to DC for ya. I used the one off a 2003 WR450 and it worked great. If you decide later you want a battery, there is just enough room in the airbox for a small motorcycle battery.

Hmmm. I didn't know that. I thought you had to have a battery to complete a circuit on a rectifier. I do have a 2x3x2" SLA battery (was mounted behind number plate) that I was running my taillight off of, but I would like to get rid of it if I could. Do you by chance have your wiring schematic? I'm going to start looking around for a reg/rec from a WR. Thanks.

I have a K&S switch that I am running it all through, I just had to relocate my kill to the throttle side (kind of wierd, but works; also thinking of hooking kill up to the meant horn and the horn to the kill on the right side)

I believe the rectifier will convert the power to DC for ya.
You're right. That's what a rectifier does. You would need one with a battery anyway. Batteries can't live with AC at all, and they won't convert it to DC.

Will a universal reg/rec work? I can get one for $30.

If it's built to handle the voltge and current in the system, yes, it will work.

It says it's 'heavy duty' up to 170V but I can't find an amperage rating...

How about a wattage rating? That will give you the current.

lol...sorry --> 170W 12V standard, I think it can handle up to 15V as a HD rating though.

darn fingers!

It seems to me that the output voltage of many typical magnetos can run past 30 or 40 fairly easily, certainly over 20 at high speed. A simple voltage regulator, often just a Zener diode, seems advisable.

At 12V, 170w would be a current of 14 amps (P=EI, or Power in watts = Electromotive force in volts multiplied by I, the current in amps).

You can think of voltage and current as if it were water in a pipe. Voltage is the pressure, and current is the amount of fluid that actually is moved from one point to another. Wattage is a measure of power; the amount of work being done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now