Several of you who were aware of some electrical mods I was making to my 650R have requested I post the final results and pics online. Apologies for taking so long to get it done, also for being long-winded, but the mods were extensive. See photos in "My Garage". In prep for rewinding my stator I decided I wanted to mod my XR650R's electrical system and make it a bit more robust and easier to trouble shoot. To start I brought the single output of the regulator/rectifier into a master relay, controlled by a switch just beneath my ignition switch. (Yeah, I could have gone through the ignition switch but I would not have been able to kill all lights independent of the ignition...). The output of the main relay then feeds a 6-fuse panel. This allows individually fused power for the headlight, turn signals/brake light, 109dB horn, digital LED tach, LED voltmeter and one spare. The spare will be wired to my Garmin GPS V as soon as I get another RAM mount and hard-wired power cable. All connections were made via 2-, 4-, and 9-pin Hitachi-type modular connectors (all this from Electrical Connection) and all connector housings were sprayed with DuPont Teflon/Silicone sealer to help prevent corrosion of the brass pins. After rewinding my stator I upgraded the lighting. This invovled replacing the E-Line/UFO plastic lens (#7351 incandescent bulb) with a Baja Designs glass lens (H4 bulb). This required significant mods to the UFO Oregon headlight assembly as the BD lens was more square-ish and used a different lens mounting arrangement. [The UFO-Oregon headlight is sweet-looking, but if I had it to do over, I would go with the BD headlight/number plate assembly from the git-go and get H4 capability without all this headache. Live and learn.] Additionally, as the BD H4 lens is glass it is noticably heavier than the UFO plastic lens. Add-in the weight of the small sealed lead-acid battery, fuse panel, master power relay, etc, that I had already installed and the complete headlight/number plate assembly is now putting serious strain on the existing rubber mounting straps. So I fabricated a lower mounting bar out of 1-1/16th square aluminum tubing and 1-1/8th aluminum bar, onto which I bolted two nylon pegs (see "My Garage" photos). Two holes were drilled in the bottom of the headlight/number plate assembly to match up with these nylon mounting points, thereby replacing the bottom rubber straps with a far more secure means of carrying the new weight. To keep all this sorted out and avoid any "my-memory-is-going" problems, I did a full PowerPoint update of the factory wiring schematic (see jpeg image). Yeah, it was a massive pain to figure out how to get eveything mounted (neatly) in the headlight assembly. But now its done and I am very happy with it. I now have about 350-400 miles on this new setup and have had zero problems so far. Was this entire project overkill? Yeah, probably. But that's the way I generally do things. Do it right. Do it once. Ride safe, all.