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Miguel159

XRR boiled over today

26 posts in this topic

I went for a doozy of a woods ride today on the 650R. The trails got really tight and the going was slow. After a climb I stopped to wait for a fella behind me (group of 4) and the bike started smokin like crazy. Coolant started pissing out the drains and spraying on my right peg and boot. I shut her down and the coolant in the overflow tank sounded like a coffee percolator. After letting it cool down it happened three more times getting back to the trucks. It ran ok other than that but did I do any damage? Could coolant get forced through a seal into the oil? Do I need to drain and change it (oil)? What damage could I have done ?

More importantly, how can I fix this? I still have the thermostat and the stock 1.1 rad cap. Will a higher AT rad cap and some ice type coolant prevent this? I wish I could just ride faster but it was too tight. (the bike is uncorked if that helps)

BTW, other than the coolant problem the bike was great in the woods. I see a rekluse or a hydraulic clutch in my future

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Check out the thermostat,I've read a lot in the forums about this problem.On second opinion get an L...nah, just kiddin :thumbsup: Also you should check the jetting for lean conditions.

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Went on a run with a guy with an 05 mostly stock XR650R this weekend. We were doing some light riding on the street on the way to the trail and stopped for gas, when he shut the bike off to get the fuel coolant was spewing everywhere. Luckily there was a bike shop about 1/4 mile down the road and we brought it there for them to check out. They told us it was fairly common and he added some coolant and we went on our merry way with no more problems. We ran all day with no more overheating. It was very weird and sporatic. Anyway, that just happened this weekend and he says the bike is fine!

On a side note, this somewhat justified my reasoning on wanting an air cooled bike for simplicity reasons, one less thing to worry about! :thumbsup:

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thanks for the replies. I think I'll be checking the thermostat. I don't think I'll be removing it for good but probably replacing it with something better. It's cooler up here in BC so I don't think I need to gack it all together.

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Don't expect the rekluse to solve the overheating. Took mine out for several reasons. Regarding overheat damage...possible but it's hard to do. Don't recommend killing the motor when it starts boiling. I got caught in some snow, about 10 miles of it. Boiled the bike bad, at least two dozen times working it VERY hard. Tore into the motor after the ride (was going to anyway) and no issues regarding heat.

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A fan is about the only thing that will fix it. The radiator can only get rid of heat when there is air to carry it away. You can go the expensive route with a KTM or other fan made for a motorcycle. Others have used computer type fans that are cheap to replace when they fail. There ae a few threads in this forum about it.

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options:

- use Engine Ice - it's a superior coolant over the regular anti-freeze mix and it will buy you a few degrees, but it's not going to stop this from happening.

- install a fan - here's a good document to take as a guide (one of my winter projects) http://4strokes.com/tech/honda/brpfan.pdf

- install larger radioators ($$$) and a fan, plus use engine ice. At that point you have to make sure you have a working thermostat otherwise you may run your engine too cool.

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I went for a doozy of a woods ride today on the 650R. The trails got really tight and the going was slow. After a climb I stopped to wait for a fella behind me (group of 4) and the bike started smokin like crazy. Coolant started pissing out the drains and spraying on my right peg and boot. I shut her down and the coolant in the overflow tank sounded like a coffee percolator. After letting it cool down it happened three more times getting back to the trucks. It ran ok other than that but did I do any damage? Could coolant get forced through a seal into the oil? Do I need to drain and change it (oil)? What damage could I have done ?

More importantly, how can I fix this? I still have the thermostat and the stock 1.1 rad cap. Will a higher AT rad cap and some ice type coolant prevent this? I wish I could just ride faster but it was too tight. (the bike is uncorked if that helps)

BTW, other than the coolant problem the bike was great in the woods. I see a rekluse or a hydraulic clutch in my future

Make sure your jetting is correct, buy a 1.8 Cap and if you ride in a warmer climate then remove the thermostat. If you feel you need a thermostat then get a new one (maybe yours is stuck closed?)

I have also removed the coolant recovery tank on mine and I have never had a problem. Bike is ridden hard and at many times in very tight single track in 100 + temperatures.

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thanks for the replies. I think I'll be checking the thermostat. I don't think I'll be removing it for good but probably replacing it with something better. It's cooler up here in BC so I don't think I need to gack it all together.

Sometimes removing the thermostat will make them run hotter. The thermostat is a minor restriction in the water flow. This is necessary to cause pressure on the pump and slow down the circulation rate. This produces enough backpressure on the pump so that it does not cavitate. When it cavitates it cant get enough water to pump so it sucks whatever air is in the radiator to behind the impeller and it stops pumping altogether. Then it gets real hot because there is no circulation through the engine.

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I had the same worry this week riding tight wood single track and atv trails in the Ozark National Forest in Arkansas. Mine never boiled over but if I shut it down to wait for others, it was impossible to start. We actually had to pull start it with another bike twice. After hitting some hwy for a bit and faster atv trails, it was back to starting on the 1st or 2nd kick. 04R uncorked, cored out stock exhaust , 175 main 58s pilot. No other mods. I blame it on the heat for the hard starting. No other explaination. As soon as we got to moving along faster and got some air flow, it was starting easier. All the KTM 525s and 400s I was running with all had put fans on there bikes and were running all the time. Seems to be the trick to do.

H

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Boiled my at idle once, my fault as I ran in the house to get the phone and it sat there for about 10 mins

Same boiling water

No harm to the bike and it has worked fine since, but I do find it does heat up alot in the odd tight trails I do

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Thanks for all the replys fellas. Very helpful :thumbsup: . I'll be pulling the girl apart this weekend. I'll post if there are any problems. I'm gonna check my plug too.

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As mentioned above make sure the jetting is correct and I believe all you will need is the high pressure radiator cap. I had the SRC cap on mine and never boiled over, even riding in 112+ degree heat. I would check the thermostat but continue running with the thermostat in the bike.

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I'm gonna drain the coolant system and check my thermostat. A fella at the shop told me a I can use any good quality glycol/distilled water coolant in 50/50 mix. Does anyone have a brand preference? Any users of "Water Wetter" out there? Does it help keeping the bike cooler?

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I pulled the thermostat today and found this. :thumbsdn:

102073631-M.jpg

I think that's what the boiling over was caused by. A new one is enroute from SRC :devil:

I'm gonna try some "water wetter" in the replacement coolant too.

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Definitely change out the thermostat. If it is a stock thermostat it will not cause this problem since they stick in the open position. If it is an aftermarket thermostat they can stick closed and you would over heat. I run the NAPA thermostat in mine with no problems so far.

Also a 1.8 radiator cap (the optional KX500 1.6 or 1.8 will work). I have the KX500 1.8 cap on mine and I ride slow in hot weather and never overheat or spit fluid. The level in my return bottle will raise slightly but thats about it.

I have read in several magazine reviews that even if you lose all the water it will still run cooler than the air cooled XR600R. So the odds of you damaging it going back to your vehicle was not likely.

Many riders use Evans coolant to prevent this from ever happening. I bought a gallon of Evans but have never needed to use it.

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Install a fan, everything else just lets the bike run hotter before it boils. Not good. Hard starting when HOT is due to a rich pilot jet/fuel screw.

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Just to trow my 2 cents in.. I have been a street racer for 20+ years.. big blocks, small blocks,NOS,forced induction, etc. I had a Vega with a 427 (lots of NOS). I tried all kinds of things to cool that pig. I removed the thermostat(180 deg.) and it got real bad.I added some "ice" to the coolant. That gave me about a 7 degree drop in temp. Logic would have you drop the thermostat temp further, but the motor finally quit overheating with a 210 thermostat. It seems it holds the coolant longer and allows the radiator to do it's job.

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