Siezed pivot bolt

Ok, some how the bolt head on my swingarm pivot bolt snapped off, how, i dont know.

Well i bought a new bolt, but the old bolt seems to be siezed in there real good, it turns ok and moves in and out about 1-2mm.

Im thinking it can only be siezed in the pivot bolt to bearing sleeve.

Any ideas on how to get this bad boy out, i was thinking of hitting it with the gas axe to see if the metal expansion might help free it up.

Help Help Help please please please

Cheers mate, ill put the bike on its side tomorrow and spray it with wd40 for a few days and try smashing it with a hammer again, if it dont work ill hit it with my bro's gas axe and see what happens... its a shame i missed a good days riden today

I had similar problem a while ago,the hammer didnt work so i drilled a portion of the head but it didnt work,so i used a pneumatis saw and i cut the other end(between the frame and the rear swing arm then the whole thing fell off.

i thought maybe because the bolt is hollow its not strong enough so I fabricated a solid bolt.i remember there was a little step on the bolt that

didnt let it slide out.

Cheers bloke, i can see it going to be a stressfull few days ahead.

Help us out a bit. Good read.

Some times I wonder if we should take a vote on splitting the forum.....

Just saying.

Help us out a bit. Good read.

Some times I wonder if we should take a vote on splitting the forum.....

Just saying.

I bet your the type that would also want full bike stats on something as simple and common as a tyre tube valve problem. A damn pivot bolt is a pivot bolt and if you had a read it has been answered by a few nice blokes that know what they are on about, its easy to see you dont have a clew so keep your comments to yourself in future please.

Have a nice day....

One diff between the R and L here is that the L does not have the bolt go through the engine (it does on the R, I *think*).

But yes, R or L in itself does not make a big difference, except that when the bolt does go through the engine it can be harder to get the damn thing out.

There are some good freeing-oil type agents out there, WD-40 is not one of them. Good stuff for other things, but you want to go for PB-blaster or kryoil.

If it proves really stuck, getting lube in wherever you can and then moving the bolt through whatever motion it has is the key, along with applying however much heat you feel each part of the assembly can handle.

Knocking the bolt back and forth with an air hammer/air chisel is a good start.

Some folks have been known to build a rig that will hold the bike sideways so that the far end of the frame can be supported very close to the bolt, then allowing freeing oil to drip through, then hitting the bolt with a big hammer, or in some cases a BFEM (Big Fricken Electric Motor).

Dave

Thanks Dave Yeah its an R, I have it on its side since yesterday, the oils you mentioned i havent herd of here in oz, but ive been told a lanolin style spray might be the go, ill keep you all posted on my progress.

Cheers

http://www.kanolabs.com/.Check this site for Kroil (that's the stuff Dave mentioned)this oil really works.Good luck.
Thanks Dave Yeah its an R, I have it on its side since yesterday, the oils you mentioned i havent herd of here in oz, but ive been told a lanolin style spray might be the go, ill keep you all posted on my progress.

Cheers

They're just good 'penetrating' oils. WD40 isn't.

I bet your the type that would also want full bike stats on something as simple and common as a tyre tube valve problem. A damn pivot bolt is a pivot bolt and if you had a read it has been answered by a few nice blokes that know what they are on about, its easy to see you dont have a clew so keep your comments to yourself in future please.

Have a nice day....

Ummmm... Don't really need all the stats but there is a slight difference between the water cooled Xr and the air cooled Xr when it comes to the freakin pivot bolt. Don't get me started. And they do not share the same muffler belt regardless what wr4fiddy says.

The damn pivot bolt in an R is a challenge to remove for sure.

Big hammer, Bronze punch, Beer and ear plugs.

I never said I knew what I was talking about. :thumbsup:

63294854-L.jpg

Here is a good place to start my ozzy Friend. You are not alone.

Good stuff.

Here is a good place to start my ozzy Friend. You are not alone.

Good stuff.

Thanks for the link, it has some very handy information on various issues.

Cheers.

Well its taken this long to get my swingarm off, i had it soaking with penatrene for weeks but still would not budge, ended up using u tungstin (spelling) double cut tip to drill out the ends so the swingarm could pass through the frame, i have the new bolt and will just need to get a new sleave and we should be back in business.

Thanks to everyone for there ideas, and help. :mad:

So you got a large drill bit and cut the shaft to the point you could break off the head of the shaft and the other end so the swing arm would slide out? Doesn't the pivot shaft pass through the back of the engine case as well?

So you got a large drill bit and cut the shaft to the point you could break off the head of the shaft and the other end so the swing arm would slide out? Doesn't the pivot shaft pass through the back of the engine case as well?

No mate, the motor doesnt use the swingarm bolt for mounting thank god.

Wish I could say that about my '87 CR500 that has the same problem. Was hoping you had figured out some innovative way to get out of there as well. I've tried a press, penetrating oils, air hammer, and a 10 lb sledge. It has moved roughly 1/8 of an inch.

Mate, i feel for ya, most of the 2 sroke motors tend to mount on the swingarm pivot.

I would wave an oxy across the very rear of the engine case's, but not to much gas, just enough to get some heat as the alloy will expand much faster than the steel bolt, i have had a few similar situations like that with alloy and steel.

I wish you best of luck.

I ran into a similar problem and thought I was screwed. What I ended up doing was using a 20 penny nail and a stack of washers as a punch. (The nail fits inside the pivot bolt and the washers were smaller than the diameter of the pivot bolt). Then I beat the heck out of it!!! FYI, trying NOT to hit the frame! What I did find was rust between the pivot sleaves which caused the binding. I have now added a substantial amount of grease in that space. Good luck!

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