brake line interference w/ moose handguards

[davemo94]

I'm having problems getting the moose handguards installed on my '06 WR 450F. When I put the brake lever in my prefered position (down about 15-degrees from horizontal) the rigid portion of the brake line (right where it comes off the master cylinder) is in the way of the inner handguard mounts for the moose handguards. I have to put the handguards either up about 5-degrees or down about 30-degrees to avoid interference w/ the brake line. I'd ideally like to put the handguards down about 10-degrees from horizontal.

I've searched the formum, and I see that alot of people are recommending the moose handguards (I think they're identical to the enduro engineering ones also), but I haven't found any discussion of this clearance issue w/ the brake line.

Any advice would be much appreciated ?

[Punisher660]

I had a similar issue with my Circa tripple clamp mounts.....I simply removed the rigid piece from the master cylinder and angle it down (moved it to the other side of the cast stud that holds it in place) I then tightened t down and havn't had any problems since.

[BJDAMELX]

I had the same problem. I ended up using ASV handles on both brake and clutch and didn't bother with the moose guards. So far (laid the bike down once) the handles did there job and then sprung right back into place. I also found the guards don't want to be positioned on the bend of the handle bars.

[bigjohnintexas]

I have Tag T2 bars with Moose handguards. If I understand your question right I had the same problem. You should be able to loosen the brakeline from the master cylinder and rotate it up to clear the Moose mounting clamp. I was able to get mine pretty close(not perfect). If this still doesn't work you might be able to grind off part of the flange stop that prohibits the line from rotating upwards more than it does. I had to bleed my brakeline after I made my adjustments, so be aware of that. Good luck.

[WR_Dave]

Just cut the stud off of the master cylinder in the direction you are wanting to go and retighten and bleed the brake. Easy--WR Dave ?

[farkawi]

Yeah, I too used the cutting wheel on the master cylinder locating pin and rotated the brake line. 10minute job.

[davemo94]

Thanks for all the advice so far! I've decided I like the look of the Cycra Pro-bends better, and I'd rather not start cutting on the mastercyclinder if I can avoid it, so I'm going to return the moose guards for the cycra's w/ the triple clamp mount to avoid this clearance issue.

Looking at some websites, it looks like the side-mount triple clamp mounts are the ones for the WR with stock triple clamp, but I can't find anything that tells me for sure. Can anyone confirm that the Cycra Pro-Bend racer pack with the side triple clamp mounts are the right fit for my '06 WR?

Also, if anyone's used these, do they work with the stock bar length, or are any adjustments needed? I can't tell from the website pictures if there's any 'length adjustment' and I'd like to keep the bars at stock width.

Thanks!

[Dan_Lorenze]

Thanks for all the advice so far! I've decided I like the look of the Cycra Pro-bends better

I had the same exact problem with my Cycra Pro bends (side mounts for my BPR top clamp)... The front brake cable fitting gets in the way.. Cycra suggested grinding away at the tab on the master cylinder to relocate the position of the cable, like you I wasn't crazy about it.. I ended up grinding away half the hand guard down just so it would fit.. Totally unimpressed with the product.. I had Fastways on my KTM, they were real nice.