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Rick_Laut

Now in the XR650R Club...

11 posts in this topic

Just wanted to check in and thank everyone for all the info in this forum. I've been lurking for a while and just picked up an '02 XR650R the other day. It's apart in the garage at the moment to make sure she's up to speed... :thumbsup:. Valves, oil, coolant, grease, etc.

I'm struggling with getting a previously installed Baja Designs dual sport kit to work on it. I've got an e-mail into BD looking for info on how to test their rectifier, but if anyone here knows how to do it I'm listening! Basically, the battery works and the stator works - none of the lights work & the fuse is fine.

Anyway, thanks again and I'm sure I'll have some questions.

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I just bought an 06 XR650R, w/ a BD's Kit, and it came with a dead battery. They say the battery should last 2-3 years of normal service. If you run the bike in the "p" position for an hour or so, you should be able to re charge the battery if it is still good. This worked for me. Then, the lights should function with the bike off for you. If not, you may have a bad battery. It seems if I run my bike with the headlight on, the charge of the battery does not hold? Not sure why. BD tech dept. told me to test the regulator where the battery and regulator connect, to see if the reg may be bad. BD's has a tech section on their web site for you to check out many issues, or you can just call their tech dept. with your questions. :thumbsup:

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I've been lurking for a while and just picked up an '02 XR650R the other day... I've got an e-mail into BD looking for info on how to test their rectifier, but if anyone here knows how to do it I'm listening!

Rick,

To build on what phillipstjohn said, pull the leads between the battery and rect. Start the bike and check for at least 12 volts, +/-, across those leads (coming from the rectifier). Rev it a bit and you should see a good 14v.

If you're not seeing 12-14vdc from the rectifier, then pull the the two leads going into the rect (from the stator) and check them for a/c voltage (out of the stator) with bike running. If no power there, double-check the connector under the seat: go back under the seat pull the two connector leads coming from the stator to the rectifier (white-yellow and solid green). Start the bike and check for voltage across those two leads. It'll be a/c voltage but you should see a solid output across those two leads from the stator (maybe somebody can chime-in here on indicated ac volts out of the stator). If you do see voltage across these two stator output leads, but none or low voltage out of the rect (as tested above), then the rect is faulty.

Once you get your BD rect problem sorted out, at some point you might think about rewinding the stock stator. From the factory it'll produce about 65-70 watts. Rewinding it will give you 125-200 watts, depending on what you need. It sounds like.a scary undertaking but lots of guys on the 650 forum have done it themselves and will walk you thru it. Snaggle650 probably has the best process documented, imho.

Good luck and welcome to the 650R club!!! You are going to love that R.

Keep us posted on the results of your rect problem.

Ride safe.

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Keep us posted on the results of your rect problem.

Wow I hope it isnt serious. A "Rect" problem can be painful.

I hope your rectum is ok.

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Im glad im now in the club as well! I exclusively rode KTM's since the early 90's. I rode trials before that on a Bultaco Sherpa T-350. After riding the big XR I now see how terrible the ktms handled. Im glad I found this website. It wasnt until recently I found the courage to play around with the internet and try and find out the goods and bads of some aftermarket add-ons. I have been riding my 650 "uncorked" for some time now and would like to start bumping up the torque a little bit. I paid cash for the bike so being as I dont owe anything on it im not afraid to throw some cash at it. There was another message on here I was really enjoying. Where would I get this 680 kit at and would it be reliable or would it run hot? If there are any "gurus" on this bike please guide my path to build a more torquey but dependable scoot.

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Got to agree with Internal Combustion. You really need to rewind your stator. I bought mine with the BD DSK with the stock stator. These kits are designed to get you by for an inspection & operation on public roads between trails but if you intend to ride on the street regularly an updated stator is a must do. I think I'm the most recent person on this post to have rewound my stator myself with Snaggle's patient guidance. Now the DSK works independent of the battery. I have enough juice to run a 55/60 watt headlight & the blinkers work at idle regarless of the charge on the battery. I nearly crashed on my firts night ride with the stock stator on my way home from work as the output was insufficient to run the headlight. Fun, fun, fun. Anyway, the total cost of the stator rewind was about 25 bucks. It's really not that difficult if you have any experience with a soldering iron. Search this forum for the post titled "DIY stator rewind" from a couple months ago. Should have the info you need.

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I got the Dakar Kit, so this may not apply

I hooked mine up and nothing worked quite right, lights dim, no headlight, charged the battery and everything worked good for 2 mins

I did not buy the high output stator

So anyway I called them and they told me that becouse I never got the high output stator that the wiring under the seat had to be changed around alittle from the directions

Changed the wiring and eveything worked fine, good strong headlight, blinkers horn ect

But the kit is not that durable

The rear brake presure switch blows every 100 miles, if I get that out of it

And now the circuit board is gone becouse they did not soder them right

They are sending me a new one

I ride mostly in daylight, so I did not get the high output stator

But like I SAID, WHEN THE KIT IS NOT BROKE, IT WORKS STRONG, sorry cap lock

Anyway good luck

And this is an awsome site to get info and save yourself alot of time

Derick

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Thanks for all the input..... I've got the bulk of the problem figured out. The handlebar switch was kaput. When I jumper around that, I get all of the lights except the headlight. BajaDesigns was very helpful via e-mail and phone - my new switch should be here by Monday. I'm hoping that the headlight issue is caused by the switch as well.

Back to the garage... :thumbsup:

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Hmmmm - even though I'm still waiting for my replacement switch, I decided to take a minute to see what the voltage was at the battery leads (battery disconnected). I'm only getting 10V DC there and less (!) when I rev it. Now.... to be fair, electricity was never my forte, so there's probably a 50 / 50 chance that I'm not setting up the high fangled meter that I borrowed properly.

I'm surprised that the lights (meaning tailight, turn signals, brake light) work consistently and are relatively bright. The battery is working fine as well - no real change in brightness between engine off / engine on.

I do intend to either rewind or get a high output stator, but it will be a bit. Hopefully my headlight problem is just something with the switch and I just don't know how to config the meter.

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