Oil Filter completely full of mud

Bummer, that fully sucks, good luck

Im gonna use Grays remedy and re route right now

Well, the race was great. But I only made it 90 km's out of 120 because my clutch is done. I had to push up and over the last 4 hills. I finally came upon a river, pulled over and took off all my gear and cooled off!! That was it for me and now it's time to pull apart my bike. Still noisey, now it's blowing out smoke (burning oil) and the clutch is toast. I only hope the bottom end is not wrecked. What do I look for? I have never pulled apart a thumper, only lots of 2 stroke top ends. I will check cams, journals, the valves and valve seats, the piston, rings and cylinder I guess. I won't be rding for a couple of weeks I figure. I do want to rebuilt the bike properly and get 4 months hard riding out of it. Thanks

I'm sorry to hear about your misery. That really sucks. Good luck with the rebuild.

Im gonna use Grays remedy and re route right now

I'm doing the same!!!!!

Well, the nickesil was rubbed right through to the aluminum, so new cylinder. The cam chain was pretty slack, new valves. But the worst of it all was the clunking rod. So that meant splitting the cases for a new rod and crank/main bearing. New complete Hinson clutch and a bunch of other parts..... I guess thats the price you pay for riding hard and racing. Hindsight is 20/20, i should have done this mod for placing the breather tube up higher, but after reading some write ups on how it was impossible for this tube to suck, i though where i had placed it was fine. Anyways, the bike rips again, even with the breather tube up in the air box and I will be riding my 2 stroke more often now. My primary bike will always be a 2 stroke, nothing beats the simplicity of a smoker. Light, simple and a blast to ride. The 4 stroke is an expensive, demanding, heavy bike that puts out toquey, smooth power. It's a give and take relationship. It's just like women, the hot curvey ones that put out, are demanding and expensive. I'm sticking with my toothless, raspy, fun loving 2 stroke.

Well, the nickesil was rubbed right through to the aluminum, so new cylinder. The cam chain was pretty slack, new valves. But the worst of it all was the clunking rod. So that meant splitting the cases for a new rod and crank/main bearing. New complete Hinson clutch and a bunch of other parts..... I guess thats the price you pay for riding hard and racing. Hindsight is 20/20, i should have done this mod for placing the breather tube up higher, but after reading some write ups on how it was impossible for this tube to suck, i though where i had placed it was fine. Anyways, the bike rips again, even with the breather tube up in the air box and I will be riding my 2 stroke more often now. My primary bike will always be a 2 stroke, nothing beats the simplicity of a smoker. Light, simple and a blast to ride. The 4 stroke is an expensive, demanding, heavy bike that puts out toquey, smooth power. It's a give and take relationship. It's just like women, the hot curvey ones that put out, are demanding and expensive. I'm sticking with my toothless, raspy, fun loving 2 stroke.

If you like I will dig up my pics for routing the tube to the airbox. It is routed so that the engine sucks filtered air. When I did it to the 250's I noticed the oil staying cleaner looking, but did notice an increase of oil in the filtered side of the box as well. With the 450 I would imagine the oil film would increase somewhat.

IMO, the two best approaches to preventing water, etc., from being drawn up the breather at low engine speeds both involve putting a T fitting in the breather tube.

One way is to simply place a T right over the breather fitting on the cam cover and run one hose in the original location, and a second hose into the air box. Placing a small PCV filter on the hose in the air box is a good idea. Better still, but more work, is to use Yamaha's kit, or duplicate it. In this setup, the breather line runs to a fitting in the air boot, and comes out on the clean air side of the filter, where it's totally protected.

http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4956573#post4956573

The second way is to basically duplicate the setup the XR's have run for years. Run the breather hose rearward instead of forward from the cam cover and down over the back of the engine to exit in the swing arm area with the carb vents. Put a T fitting in the hose as it starts down near the air box so that the straight-through ports are aligned with the flow from the engine downward, and the side port connects to a hose running to the air box.

If the bottom of the hose in either of these arrangements is ever submerged while the engine is idling, stalled, or being cranked, it will be unable to draw anything up the hose because the vacuum will be defeated by air from the higher open end in the air box. But under normal circumstances, air box oiling would be reduced by the fact that there is a second path for the escaping crankcase vapors to follow. A one way valve on the air box end allowing air into the engine but not out would be and additional tweak, as long as it offered little or no resistance to air flowing in.

Does anyone know if the EFI Honda CRF450Rs have this potential issue as well?

my breather hose has white oil dripping out of it after i ride it, is this bad? does anyone know why this happens? 1998 yamaha yz400f. i think it might be antifreeze getting in the oil at some point but im not sure where it would be getting in cuz the oil in the bottom end of the motor is normal. i need help!! idk if i should be running it like this!

You should have done one of two things differently here.  First would have been to have searched for an answer to your question in a thread that actually addresses the specific problem instead of one only marginally related.  By searching on "white" and "breather", I get several hits, including these:

 

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/890987-help2009-yz450-milky-oil/?hl=%2Bwhite+%2Bbreather#entry9273009

http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1019702-what-is-this-coming-from-the-breather-hose/?hl=%2Bwhite+%2Bbreather#entry10721443

 

Next would have been that if you could not find an answer in the search results, post your question in a new topic, rather than tacking unrelated questions onto an 8 year old thread.

 

To answer your question, if your crankcase oil is normal looking, you are picking up atmospheric moisture from the winter air and mixing it with the oil in the breather tube.  Nothing to concern yourself with.

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