I just stumbled on this - a lot of good info.

Oh, yes, and bike won't run right on regular gas. I get way to much knock in the mid-range. I have read articles where someone was trying to go with higher compression and wanted to know what the fuel requirements were for the 650L. I can say that on the higher compression pistons, you lose the ability to run on regular gas, and you have to run a cold spark plug - rating DPR9 to kill the knock. So, yes, the compression is way up. There certainly are technical problems, but I have most of them under control.

I found that I get less tire wobble when I switched to nitrogen in my tires.....

Thats really helpfull and the tires seem to last ALOT longer too!! In most cases I was only getting 400 miles max out of my knobbies then I started using flat track tires, they LAST alot longer and give real good traction off road too.

Have you tried using elemers glue on your master link? ...... I've been doing that for years and have never had a problem.

Ha ha! I think we all know you cannot use Elmers on any moving parts. In fact, the stuff is so gunky that you have to apply it in very small amounts. If you contaminate anything that has to move like a cable, you are screwed. It does one thing real good. It holds larger bolts in place and breaks free with a wrench. It is a very old solution - called a PVA adhesive. It is basically a sticky vinyl.

I did have the strangest problem last year where I kept tearing the master links on the chain at high RPM. I now soak the master link in Honda chain wax and lithium grease before every ride.

If you have tire wobble, you should change your brand. The Pirellis are solid tires. The MT21 did not wobble ever. The Bridgestone was in my opinion defective and wobbled furiously. I think I have been through most of the well known brands by now and have been trying some of the off-brands. I do not like the Metzeler. They are too noisy.

No, you have it wrong......

you put the elemers on the clip of the master link..... that part dosnt move.

I was having wobbles at high speed (over 90) but switching to nitrogen instead of air in the tires and its smooth as my friends GSXR on the pavement.

Its because of nitrogen molecules dont change size and expand like regular air does so my pressure stays the same at 25psi even if only using 95% nitro

You should try Helium in your tires instead, it greatly improves your gas mileage. :excuseme:

... maybe that's what baddog650L uses in his tires that makes his bike perform so well.:bonk:

What are you guys doing with all these exotic gas sources laying around?

Just a thought: Read the labels on the product you use to tread lock your bike. You will find stern warnings on the labels. Many products cause cancer. PVA was used as a base in chewing gum amongst other things. Just don't eat it. I have a lot of bolts to undo and redo. I am playing it safe.

If you told me that you owned a LC4 640 and you were frustrated because you had to tighten almost every major bolt on the bike after one ride, you would probably heed my advice if I said that all you need is a bottle of PVA adhesive from the hardware store. If I told you that all you needed to do was to raid your five-year-old's craft box, you would laugh your ass off and call me a jerk.

White and yellow PVA glue held my LC4 together for 1 year. The bike was almost more glue, tape and plastic than it was functional metal. That was before it caught fire for the third time (no fault of the glue). Then, I got another XR650L. Only one bolt ever shook loose in nine years on the 650L. It was the turn signal mount.

Its a good story !

But not enough:p

Oh i forgot to mention...ktm 525 su-XX:moon:

Just a thought: Read the labels on the product you use to tread lock your bike. You will find stern warnings on the labels. Many products cause cancer. PVA was used as a base in chewing gum amongst other things. Just don't eat it. I have a lot of bolts to undo and redo. I am playing it safe.

:excuseme:

One mans cancer is another mans candy

Helium will just make the tires wobble more and because the molecules are smaller and you will lose air pressure faster

:bonk:

One mans cancer is another mans candy

Helium will just make the tires wobble more and because the molecules are smaller and you will lose air pressure faster

Yeah, but it makes your bike lighter so it can go impossibly fast like baddog650L's bike. :excuseme:

Clearly a helium infused bib mousse is the answer. Best of both worlds. :excuseme:

I think we all want to know the cam specs on the bullsh.. uuh im sorry i mean baddog 650

what duration in degrees specified at 0,25" lift height

How much does it lift?

Have you messed with the timing? retard or advanced if so,,how much?

Ti valves and hemi-design combustion chamber too?

What carb do you use?

I cant wait for the specs,planning to build my own badboy720.

I tried using Nitrous .... but I couldnt fell any diffrence even at 30psi

I might be able to help there. On the first attempt at a stable motor, the motor was jetted poorly from the mechanic. This motor lasted 500 miles, and the top end was shot.

I am still looking for the latest part numbers on the stable rebuild.

The parts catalog found here seems to match the numbers on my receipt from 11/2003

http://www.motoxoutlet.com/wb/2004mc/Engine.pdf

WB-1652 all around power-up kit

63-1005 10.5:1 piston

remember, this was not a stable configuration. I am still looking for the latest numbers.

Here are the Big Bear Yamaha 350 parts used on the e-series to align the pipe:

95817-08070-00 - Bolt

565-14771-00-00 - Stay

Otherwise the e-series pipe mount was too close to the turn signal. A buddy of mine had this problem.

Valve Lift: .370 Intake

Valve Lift: .350 Exhaust

Duration:

Intake: 256 degrees

Exhaust: 256 degrees

Lobe center:

Intake: 102 degrees

Exhaust: 108 degrees.

What this means to me is 3rd gear roll-on wheelies. No clutching. I am not an engine tech. I am a tuning guy and a rider. That is all.

I used the original carburetor. I had to grind the idle screw cap and tweak some parts, but you do not need to swap out the carburetor.

What this means to me is 3rd gear roll-on wheelies. No clutching. I am not an engine tech. I am a tuning guy and a rider. That is all.

...your also "a hoot" of legendary proportions :bonk:

:excuseme:

I like being a hoot, thanks, Kenzo.

I finally found a lot of the old Dyno runs on paper. They were very old. They showed tests at the following horsepower:

28 hp

35 hp

45 hp

I remember the 45 hp run was disappointing because the jetting was all outta whack again. I cannot find the dyno runs after that. I know I was headed in the right direction with the results though. The powerup kit was in place with the 45 hp.

I do remember I was really annoyed with the shop because they did 11 runs and melted off half my knobbie doing it. Those guys were some real jokers. I never told them to run 11 tests while tweaking the needle height.

This is what we put up with when we do not watch our mechanics closely enough.

I just read ALL this for the first time,including the web site.All i can say is.....wow.

Here is a little example....

"You will find that you can move the wheel back a little. If this makes your rear shock too soft, remove some chain links and slide the wheel back up."

Again......WOW!

This should be a topselling story.

print it down and title it:

How to tweak a baddog out of your 650L.

OR the correct one: Story of a ktm guy trying to be funny about honda xr:s.

(when the hypermodern, superlight, brandnew,latest topnotch model- ktm seized:p)

oh i forgot WATERCOOLED,, please, insert it above.

Edited by HondaXRider

This makes super sense, but you forgot to add that if you ride with no fenders and carefully shave parts off your frame you also gain 20ish% more HP, due to decreased weight...

and I thought helium tires made you jump better because of the lightness of air, if you put some helium in those knobs your sure to jump higher than an XR650R...

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