I just stumbled on this - a lot of good info.

A few more tid-bits: The smog pump is just one component that truly messes with your power output. If you are going to remove this component, be prepared to re-jet or move the needle on the carb. If you do this, you may get 3 to 5 horses. If you already have oodles of power like I have, you get larger jumps in power. Frankly, I am flabberghasted that simple things on this bike slow it down so much.

Be careful how you re-route the hoses. There is active oil flow in there and it can bleed back to the air box.

Never remove the carbon canister just because it filters air from the engine. This canister is a buffer that keeps the oil out of your air box. If you run the engine vent tube directly to the air box, you will send motor oil back through your intake, and that is not good.

Your air filter can mean a huge difference in your performance. Keeping it clean and matched to your setup is important. Running a stock filter is OK, but opening your air box intake to full size, then using a new style filter will change your tuning. Install a fresh spark plug and check the color. You may have just leaned the motor too much. This will burn up your head and valves. Tear down the carb again and rejet.

You don't know PorterzCustomz by chance, do you?

If I have not said it before, keep a complete jet kit on hand. This means at least two pilot jets, and four mains, and maybe two needles, and two needle jets. Each needle you buy is matched to its needle jet when you buy a stock one. I like the aftermarket needles as they can be movable. Remember that an aftermarket needle can do anything - and burn up your motor. Test test test. Did I mention that a new idle screw is not a bad idea?

nope, sorry, I do not.

More goodies: Everyone wants an opinion on a tailpipe. This is just great to get a little boost out of your motor. If you want to feel something that matters, go with a full pipe as in my profile pic. The adjustable tail pipes should run from nearly closed to fully open straight thru. The E-series is perfect for this. Only tweak the pipe after you are done jetting and all the other changes. The tailpipe disks give you more low end, or more high end. Open is more high end. Closed is more low end. Remember that you have give and take. Add more high, and lose a little low.

Straight thru pipes do work and are great for running 110 mph. Just do not expect any respect in traffic. The XR 650L is enormously loud when running high compression pistons and open pipes. My earplugs do not work because the shockwaves from the pipe run through my skull. This is your final warning on this. You will go deaf.

How to get the cheapest boost in power: Change the mechanical advantage. You can do this equally well with either a smaller front sprocket, or a larger rear sprocket.

My 650L buddy changed the rear sprocket, and I changed the front. We move fairly well together, but he swears my bike is not anything like his.

You should replace the stock chain with a better one. Master links fail often when running up past 50 hp. I seem to be losing a master link every year or so. I am usually in 4th gear running full-on which seems to heat up the master link. Keeping the chain fully soaked in grease is certainly a good idea.

In my case, I had a huge RPM range to work with, so dropping the gearing was a no-brainer. The down side is that the bike is pushing its true limits. Tires heat up. The chain heats up. My seat gets a lot of attention. So do my grips.

Using the Corbin tapered seat is a must for this situation. Otherwise, you often slide off the stock seat when running up the gears. You also need to think about how you are going to hold on. These issues do come up.

***???:thumbsup::worthy:

Never remove the carbon canister just because it filters air from the engine. This canister is a buffer that keeps the oil out of your air box. If you run the engine vent tube directly to the air box, you will send motor oil back through your intake, and that is not good.

...Oil in the intake...that'd be horrible it might even.....burn!

:thumbsup:

Never remove the carbon canister just because it filters air from the engine. This canister is a buffer that keeps the oil out of your air box. If you run the engine vent tube directly to the air box, you will send motor oil back through your intake, and that is not good.
Your air filter can mean a huge difference in your performance. Keeping it clean and matched to your setup is important. Running a stock filter is OK, but opening your air box intake to full size, then using a new style filter will change your tuning. Install a fresh spark plug and check the color. You may have just leaned the motor too much. This will burn up your head and valves. Tear down the carb again and rejet.
If I have not said it before, keep a complete jet kit on hand. This means at least two pilot jets, and four mains, and maybe two needles, and two needle jets. Each needle you buy is matched to its needle jet when you buy a stock one. I like the aftermarket needles as they can be movable. Remember that an aftermarket needle can do anything - and burn up your motor. Test test test. Did I mention that a new idle screw is not a bad idea?
More goodies: Everyone wants an opinion on a tailpipe. This is just great to get a little boost out of your motor. If you want to feel something that matters, go with a full pipe as in my profile pic. The adjustable tail pipes should run from nearly closed to fully open straight thru. The E-series is perfect for this. Only tweak the pipe after you are done jetting and all the other changes. The tailpipe disks give you more low end, or more high end. Open is more high end. Closed is more low end. Remember that you have give and take. Add more high, and lose a little low.

Straight thru pipes do work and are great for running 110 mph. Just do not expect any respect in traffic. The XR 650L is enormously loud when running high compression pistons and open pipes. My earplugs do not work because the shockwaves from the pipe run through my skull. This is your final warning on this. You will go deaf.

How to get the cheapest boost in power: Change the mechanical advantage. You can do this equally well with either a smaller front sprocket, or a larger rear sprocket.

My 650L buddy changed the rear sprocket, and I changed the front. We move fairly well together, but he swears my bike is not anything like his.

You should replace the stock chain with a better one. Master links fail often when running up past 50 hp. I seem to be losing a master link every year or so. I am usually in 4th gear running full-on which seems to heat up the master link. Keeping the chain fully soaked in grease is certainly a good idea.

In my case, I had a huge RPM range to work with, so dropping the gearing was a no-brainer. The down side is that the bike is pushing its true limits. Tires heat up. The chain heats up. My seat gets a lot of attention. So do my grips.

Using the Corbin tapered seat is a must for this situation. Otherwise, you often slide off the stock seat when running up the gears. You also need to think about how you are going to hold on. These issues do come up.

Sorry I try not to be mean since I have been there but its too late to care right now...

Are you writing a book?...Motorcycle Performance for Crackheads

Here are the down sides: you get a puddle of oil in your air box. Your paper filter gets soaked with motor oil. Your intake clogs. Your bike stalls. You need to buy a new filter.

What kind of work does it take to get 60-70hp?

Youve figured it all out!! I ride in PA, and would like to see your machine. Post your pics!!

What kind of work does it take to get 60-70hp?
That was a typing error...he meant mph.:thumbsup::worthy::ride:

-Joe

:thumbsup::worthy::ride: Geesh dog...how did any of us ever accomplish anything before you showed up and shared so much incredible knowledge with us? Personally, I think I'll head straight out to my garage and get wrenchin' on my "L" now that my eyes have been opened to the truth about how things really work!

:worthy::ride: :ride: Check IP addresses I am sure this one matches up with BWB63.

I know:lol: how much he loves tweakin on the "L". :thumbsup:

Here are the down sides: you get a puddle of oil in your air box. Your paper filter gets soaked with motor oil. Your intake clogs. Your bike stalls. You need to buy a new filter.

:thumbsup: I give up...whats the harm of one lost soul.

Edit:

I guess I am slow this week...I think something fishy is going on around here as well

:ride: :ride: :banana: Check IP addresses I am sure this one matches up with BWB63.

I know:lol: how much he loves tweakin on the "L". :worthy:

AFAIK, only those with administrative privileges can see other users' IP addresses. :thumbsup:

AFAIK, only those with administrative privileges can see other users' IP addresses. :worthy:

Get on it PICKLEFAN, errr I mean Martinfan! :thumbsup:

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